SeeYou190 Doughless I've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point? The weirdest one was the BLI NYC box car. There was a "tube" on top the truck that went into a round slot in the car floor. The fit was very precise. The result was a train car that would not wobble. It was an impressive bit of design. Unfortunately, the rolling qualities of these trucks was bad, and one truck had the journals manufactured wrong so only three wheels would touch the rails. The tube made it impossible for the truck to find its own level. I think I only have three of these. They were a pain to get converted to Kadees, and there will be no more. -Photograph by Kevin Parson It is a good model though. -Kevin
Doughless I've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point?
The weirdest one was the BLI NYC box car.
There was a "tube" on top the truck that went into a round slot in the car floor. The fit was very precise.
The result was a train car that would not wobble. It was an impressive bit of design.
Unfortunately, the rolling qualities of these trucks was bad, and one truck had the journals manufactured wrong so only three wheels would touch the rails. The tube made it impossible for the truck to find its own level.
I think I only have three of these. They were a pain to get converted to Kadees, and there will be no more.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
It is a good model though.
-Kevin
I have three of those lettered for the Boston and Albany and had similar issues. I hadn't looked at them close enough to figure out why so this is good information.
This has been pretty much a lost winter as far as model railroading goes because of some family business which has been taking up most of my time. I thought I was going to make some serious headway in completing the shortline and ironing out some trouble spots on the mainline but have done nothing of consequence.
It reminds me of the saying, "If you want to hear God laugh, tell him about your plans.".
DoughlessI've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point?
Living the dream.
Douglas,
Again some of these newer cars may have M2 screws, not 2-56 screws, very slightly smaller.
I have no Exactrail cars.....
I only have few older Atlas cars....
I have lots of Athearn cars.....
And lots of Accurail cars......
And lots of Bowser cars, and TrainMinature, old Walthers, and on and on.
I do have models from Spring Mills Depot, Fox Valley, Intermountain, Kadee and likely a few others I am forgetting.
And yes I understand what you are saying about lots of these not being interchangeable with each other. I would have never had that expectation, although I know that some of them are built to the "Athearn standard", many are not.
Again, I'm old school model trains, as nice as some of these new models are, I'm not always that impressed and I have stuff from every era of model train development from the late 40's to now.
And for the era I model, you might be amazed how many prototypes have NOT been made by any of these high end companies in the last 10-20 years.
And you might also be surprised how good some of the older models can look with just a little work - and a new pair of Kadee trucks - just bought some more over the weekend on a four hobby shop tour of the Philly area with my grandson.
Sheldon
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Doughless SeeYou190 Doughless The truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto. I think you are correct about that. The trucks on these freight cars are beautiully detailed, and the run well from the box. The benefits of equalization are less impactful with the high quality of track components available as well. I also doubt that very many people are making the change. -Kevin Yeah, the Kadee is a nice truck, but the 2-56 screw kind of reveals what its meant for. That screw is pretty big for how I think most OEM trucks are mounted these days. I've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point? I am puzzeled by this statement and will need to take a trip to the basement. What size screws are on what brands of newer rolling stock? I have some newer, higher end rolling stock, even some from 10 years or so ago that I have already converted to Kadee trucks - they have 2-56 screws? I could be wrong, or maybe I'm not buying the same kind of rolling stock as you, but most of what I have has 2-56 truck screws? The point of using a 2-56 screw - how about compatiblity with most of the HO trains built in the last 70-80 years? Sheldon
Doughless SeeYou190 Doughless The truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto. I think you are correct about that. The trucks on these freight cars are beautiully detailed, and the run well from the box. The benefits of equalization are less impactful with the high quality of track components available as well. I also doubt that very many people are making the change. -Kevin Yeah, the Kadee is a nice truck, but the 2-56 screw kind of reveals what its meant for. That screw is pretty big for how I think most OEM trucks are mounted these days. I've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point?
SeeYou190 Doughless The truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto. I think you are correct about that. The trucks on these freight cars are beautiully detailed, and the run well from the box. The benefits of equalization are less impactful with the high quality of track components available as well. I also doubt that very many people are making the change. -Kevin
Doughless The truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto.
I think you are correct about that.
The trucks on these freight cars are beautiully detailed, and the run well from the box. The benefits of equalization are less impactful with the high quality of track components available as well.
I also doubt that very many people are making the change.
Yeah, the Kadee is a nice truck, but the 2-56 screw kind of reveals what its meant for. That screw is pretty big for how I think most OEM trucks are mounted these days.
I've never looked at the truck mounting screws for these different brands of cars. Still, I'd be very disappointed if they each had their own different diameter screw and truck bolster mount. What would be the point?
I am puzzeled by this statement and will need to take a trip to the basement. What size screws are on what brands of newer rolling stock? I have some newer, higher end rolling stock, even some from 10 years or so ago that I have already converted to Kadee trucks - they have 2-56 screws?
I could be wrong, or maybe I'm not buying the same kind of rolling stock as you, but most of what I have has 2-56 truck screws?
The point of using a 2-56 screw - how about compatiblity with most of the HO trains built in the last 70-80 years?
Sheldon, the problem appears to be with the "2-56" screw supplied with the Kadee trucks. They are silver and a bit wider than the holes in the Atlas, Exactrail, and Athearn RTR cars I tried to fit them into. (They look like MDC/BB screws). The screws that came with those cars are black, and while they are close, they are narrower than the Kadee silver screw, or have a finer thread (the Kadee screw stuck in each. I could have "cut" its thread into the styrene if I forced it with a firm fist and twist).
Maybe there is a slight difference in what China calls a 2-56 and what an American made 2-56 is.
The Athearn RTR, Exactrail, and Atlas trucks do not mount well onto each others' cars. While the screws appear to be the same diameter, the Exactrail has a built in washer to its head making it not possible to fit into the Athearn RTR truck very well, and visa vers. The Atlas screw has a different shape altogether than either the ER and Athearn, sort of tapered.
Based upon my crude 20 minute experiment, none of the trucks are interchangeable with each other, but they are close enough that they could be made to fit. Its not like the old MDC/BB trucks that were interchangeable, and slid onto the Accural kit cars (they had bad trucks and wheels). IIRC, the accurail press fit pin would also hold the BB/MDC truck, but my memory may be wrong about that, and it may have needed a red Kadee fiber washer to help.
Interestingly, both Exactrail cars have trucks that have a form of flexible equalization...didn't know this until now. They are one part trucks that mount on a flange on the car body, whereas the Kadee truck is a two-parter than needs the flange removed, if I understand it correctly.
Again, most of this is a pointless experiment because folks aren't going to be swapping out trucks on these higher end cars.
- Douglas
So, I just happen to have three brand new Rapido F30D undecorated flat cars up here in my office. So I unpacked one and removed the truck screw.
The instructions clearly indicate the size of the screw - it is an M2 x 4mm.
An M2 screw, designed for a 2mm clearance hole, is actually 1.88 mm in diameter, or 0.074"
A SAE 2-56 screw is 0.082" in diameter.
All measurments confirmed with a digital micrometer.
The trucks on this high end Rapido car don't look much different than the trucks on Athearn cars I bought four decades ago, except for a little brake shoe detail that is not as good as the brake shoe detail on the Kadee truck.
Pretty sure 2-56 or its metric equal still rules the truck attachment world.
I have to agree, not many people are likely to be switching out whole fleets. But Kadee and others still seem to be doing good in the replacement truck business.
Douglas, I find it very interesting how our presepectives on the world are different. You see these topics from a current point of view, model train trucks, plumbing, car wheel sizes and so on.
I see them in a complete historical progression - from where they started to now.
And, sticking to the model train aspect, I still run freight cars manufactured before I was born, so how trucks were mounted in 1950, or 1970, or 1990, is still relevant to my modeling.
Everybody copied Athearn and MDC. And by the way the owners of those two companies did talk to each other, and work together on some things. That is history I have related on this forum before.
So that is why there is some sense of a standard today. But before Athearn made their first plastic box car, the truck/bolster configuration you are familiar with did not exist.
While they may not provide exactly what you are looking for, the traditional Kadee metal sprung trucks do provide a more solid "feel" to the rolling stock as they travel along.
And while heavy equalized trucks may not be as important as they once were, I still believe they are a benefit with long trains - an area of particular interest to me considering a short train on the ATLANTIC CENTRAL is 35 cars.
And remember - the NMRA weight recommendations are not "STANDARDS". The "RP" in RP-20.1, stands for "Recommended Practice".
DoughlessThe truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto.
I suppose that now having to crimp the standard flexible tubing has made some things more standardized. Everything we buy is made in that big factory in China, you know, and when different companies want to have their own unique everything, the Chinese probably tell them to take a hike and they have to accept the standard product...just branded differently.
Model trains still have batches I suppose. The factory swaps out tooling from one company to the other, so there probably is still more non-standardization in the hobby than what is in the more more consummed products.
NMRA weighting. Is that a standard, or why would any company build a car that deviated from a standard weight?
Faucets - you do know you are talking to someone with 45 years of plumbing experience?
Faucets typically have 1/2" rigid pipe thread connections, yes it looks bigger because the nominal size is based on the inside diameter of 1/2 schedule 40 rigid steel or brass pipe. But many today have flexible supply lines built in, so they often have 3/8" compression fittings to fit the typical stop valve under your sink.
What comes out of the wall can vary depending on era a type of pipe. It might be 1/2" copper, cpvc, 1/2" rigid, on the old days 3/8" rigid pipe. But typically a stop valve is placed there with a 3/8" compression outlet for a flex line to the faucet. Today braided stainless steel flex lines are made with whatever combination of fitting on each end that are required.
Not really all that complex.
These days, most bolt patterns on FWD/AWD cars are simply listed as 114.3mm. Honda, Toyota, Mazda, Kia, Hyundai etc. I think even the American manufacturers use the same pattern, if they still make car-based vehicles.
Its the little hub/axle bearing cover that is a different diameter...not the axle diameter...the COVER...by a few mms either way. That determines the diameter of the wheel's hub, which is then covered by a little plastic piece that has the car brand's emblem on it. If not for a different emblem and planned different hub covers, by only a few mms, most OEM aluminum wheels would fit on any FWD/AWD passenger car. Its planned branding thing that has nothing to with function. Function wise, all aluminum wheels are the same across all brands.
But the branding thing makes it difficult to swap wheels across brands. That's the point I figure....controlling the product even years after its sold.
You do have to know the width and the offset of each wheel as to not rub something if you swap. Wheels do have different offsets for asthetics and some performance issues, but performance is pretty much the same for commuter cars, so its mainly asthetics.
Oh well, back to rolling stock weight if anybody still wants to talk about that.
All cars do not have the same diameter 5 lug pattern. And position of the mounting face to the edge of the rim is different on many as well.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Douglas, do the wheels on a Chevy fit a FORD? They do not consult each other in deciding what bolt circle or offset they will use to build their cars? Why would Athearn ask anyone else what they are doing? BUT, more to the point, you might want to look closer. The KADEE truck does not fit an Athearn car without modifing the car, the hole in the truck does not fit over the hub, and the HGC or metal self centering version of the Kadee truck will not work without the special hub that comes with them. All three versions of the Kadee trucks require a flat smooth bolster with NO flange, lip, hub, which ever term you prefer. So the first thing you do on most brands to install Kadee trucks is cut off the hub and make sure the bolster surface is flat and smooth. Pictures at 11. Regarding you particular issue - maybe weight is you best option. You may have been happier modeling in a larger scale, like S or two rail O "scale", where you get more of that "intimate" feel of being around trains and they have much more "mass". Sheldon
Douglas, do the wheels on a Chevy fit a FORD? They do not consult each other in deciding what bolt circle or offset they will use to build their cars? Why would Athearn ask anyone else what they are doing?
BUT, more to the point, you might want to look closer.
The KADEE truck does not fit an Athearn car without modifing the car, the hole in the truck does not fit over the hub, and the HGC or metal self centering version of the Kadee truck will not work without the special hub that comes with them.
All three versions of the Kadee trucks require a flat smooth bolster with NO flange, lip, hub, which ever term you prefer.
So the first thing you do on most brands to install Kadee trucks is cut off the hub and make sure the bolster surface is flat and smooth.
Pictures at 11.
Regarding you particular issue - maybe weight is you best option.
You may have been happier modeling in a larger scale, like S or two rail O "scale", where you get more of that "intimate" feel of being around trains and they have much more "mass".
Yeah, when I wear out the factory tires, I've upgraded the wheels on my kids cars from 17 to 18 inches...more clearence and a little safer, IMO. While all manufacturers have the same 5 bolt pattern, the centric hubs are different sizes. Mazda 66.1mm and Honda 64mm. I'm sure if you ask Honda, 64mm is much better than 66.1mm.
Why can't a Delta faucet get water from the 3/4 inch pipe into the sink with the same fitting that a Moen does? Again, its a simple problem that should have been solved shortly after indoor plumbing was invented.
Back in the day when I mistakenly took the bait and changed over my plastic wheels to metal on the BB, MDC, Walthers, Proto, and Accurail cars, I would always replace the trucks on the Walthers and Accurail with BB trucks, since the metal wheels I used would not fit those trucks well. The factory screws seemed to work just fine...they didn't seem to be different..and even the BB trucks mounted onto the Accurail with the little plastic pin just fine.
Now I guess with all of these proto-specific details and fidelity that each company is producing, they have decided to change over the screw size that has worked well for 60 years. I'm sure if you asked each company's designer/engineer. they will all swear that their way is better than the other guys' LOL.
The truth is that I doubt that many folks these days bother to switch out trucks on Genesis, Exactrail, Scaletrains, Rapido, Atlas, IM, Proto...except me because they are all too light and roll too freely...so the issue is pretty moot as far as the hobby caring about it.
Doughless2-56. Right. I know what that means. These are trucks designed for upgrading an Athearn BB car.
Hi Douglas...
Unfortunately in HO there is no standardized truck mount like we have a more-or-less standard coupler box.
The most difficult train cars I have fitted Kadee trucks to are BLI New York Central boxcars and Atlas USRA boxcars. Those required a bit of re-work to get the job done.
Since I have mostly Kadee, Red Caboose, Intermountain, Brass, and Resin Kits, the 2-56 screw is perfect for me. The only Athearn cars in the Fleet Of Nonsense are a handful of upgraded flat and gondola cars. I do not think there are any Roundhouse cars.
With the obvious exception of Kadee, these pieces of rolling stock tend to come with trucks of questionable quality. The decision to replace them is easy.
Good luck.
ATLANTIC CENTRALBut yes to install the Kadee HGC trucks you often have to modify the car, cut off whatever boss or pin, and use the supplied pivot assembly.
ATLANTIC CENTRALIn the history of this hobby there are endless designs for truck bolsters - they don't all interchange - not now, not 50 years ago when I started
My point for trying the Kadee trucks had to do with getting a modern 100T version of the trucks that are on my 1950s/60s era Kadee cars....because they roll worse than most new cars, which, IMO, helps to scale down weight of the prototype.
The stuff about two-part, tracking, wheel tread width was just noise around my main goal that doesn't really matter to me. I understand that Kadees are two part for a reason, but the hole is for an Athearn or MDC car, mainly.
I've been in the hobby 40 years and it never occurred to me that different manufacturers would have bothered to engineer their own way of mounting a truck to the bottom of a car. I figured there would be a flat spot in the middle of the truck with a big hole in it that fit over a flange in the bottom of the car that was threaded to accept a screw. If not a screw, a plastic pin press fitted. A solution that would have been standardized by about 1960. I started buying trains about 1977.
Mounting a truck to the bottom of a car body doesn't seem like a problem that requires six or more different engineered methods. But I guess Atlas has to have a different size of hole than Kadee, different from Intermountain, Athearn, etc? Go figure.
Doughless I received a pair of Kadee 1569 HGC 100T trucks today. They look great and roll really freely...ahem. They are, for some reason, a two part assembly which must be installed with their supplied doo dad in the hole and a 2-56 screw. Which does not fit my $30 Atlas covered hopper. A nice truck that seems over-engineered to the point that it doesn't work for my situation. 2-56. Right. I know what that means. These are trucks designed for upgrading an Athearn BB car. My expectations for any HO truck made to install on any HO scale car: Unscrew factory screw. Remove truck. Put new truck on where old truck was just removed. Screw in new truck with factory screw. I guess some model truck engineers must think another way is better. Also, they are just as free rolling as the trucks I would replace, so its back to the tacky glue in the journals idea to try to scale down weight/brake.
I received a pair of Kadee 1569 HGC 100T trucks today. They look great and roll really freely...ahem.
They are, for some reason, a two part assembly which must be installed with their supplied doo dad in the hole and a 2-56 screw. Which does not fit my $30 Atlas covered hopper. A nice truck that seems over-engineered to the point that it doesn't work for my situation.
2-56. Right. I know what that means. These are trucks designed for upgrading an Athearn BB car.
My expectations for any HO truck made to install on any HO scale car: Unscrew factory screw. Remove truck. Put new truck on where old truck was just removed. Screw in new truck with factory screw. I guess some model truck engineers must think another way is better.
Also, they are just as free rolling as the trucks I would replace, so its back to the tacky glue in the journals idea to try to scale down weight/brake.
Well Douglas you missed the point. The HGC trucks are made from two pieces so that they equalize - that is ALL four wheels will adjust and ALWAYS be sitting on the rails and be sharing the weight EQUALLY.
This is not possible with a rigid truck. There will be track irregularities that leave one wheel unloaded even if it is "touching".
Ever have that problem with a piece of furniture on an uneven floor?
This is why I use mostly sprung trucks especially on freight cars because they get pulled in much longer trains.
I don't know anything about your Atlas covered hopper, or how its trucks are attached. I don't have any of their covered hoppers, likely out of my era by a good margin. But yes to install the Kadee HGC trucks you often have to modify the car, cut off whatever boss or pin, and use the supplied pivot assembly.
Same is true for other Kadee trucks, both the original and "self centering" versions of their metal sprung trucks also reguire a smooth bolster without a boss or hub.
EQUALIZATION - I consider it important, so did most modelers back in the day. That's why even $2 Athearn cars came with sprung trucks.
When Athearn went to the one piece truck, lots of people complained, replaced them etc.
When I started in the hobby, Central Valley made a line of sprung metal trucks that were considered the very best, I still have a fair number of them, including fully sprung passenger trucks.
The HGC truck was designed to make a non metal equalized truck with more realistic looking springs and still have it be a bit heavier than simple plastic trucks because Kadee understands what I keep saying on here about keeping the car weight down low to improve tracking.
In the history of this hobby there are endless designs for truck bolsters - they don't all interchange - not now, not 50 years ago when I started.
I know, none of this matters on your 7 car trains.
The cushion underframe assembly comes pre-assembled from Kadee, even on their kit cars. The kit cars include a note to not even think about taking the cushion underframe assembly apart.
Hopefully you can swap out the couplers without needing to do anything to the functioning cushion spring.
SeeYou190 Oh... If your D&H box car has the cushion underframe, nothing that I posted above will work. -Kevin
Oh... If your D&H box car has the cushion underframe, nothing that I posted above will work.
It does.
It's been a few years and like Sheldon, I can't remember exactly why I couldn't just replace it with a #5 or #148 but I remember thinking it odd that Kadee would produce a piece of rolling stock that couldn't have the coupler swapped for it's most popular coupler.
I'm in the middle of a train room reorganization right now (again) and I'm not sure which of the storage drawers that D&H boxcar is in. When I get things organized I'll take another look at it. I do remember it was an excellent piece of rolling stock other than that issue but I didn't want to put it on the layout with the small head coupler. I know they say it will mate with a #5 but I found that to be unreliable besides looking strange hooked to the larger coupler.
Kevin, I going to bet John is never going to do that, I know I would not do that.
I can't recall specifically how right now, but I have had those couplers out and they can be replaced, at least on the few Kadee box cars I have.
I found my stash and will sent him a few tomorrow.
And while I don't doubt they have switched to the HGC trucks, in my small collection of Kadee cars several came with semi scale couplers and the metal sprung trucks.
John-NYBWDo you have enough of those couplers in stock that you could sell me a pair of them for my Kadee D&H boxcar?
John... you do not need the special coupler head/shank for the Kadee PS-1 boxcars.
The coupler box on those models is factory sealed and I have not found a way to take it apart.
Conversion is easy. They already drilled the hole in the frame for you to use with a standard Kadee coupler box, it just needs to be tapped for 2-56 threads.
-All Photographs by Kevin Parson
The first step is to simply remove the trucks. The newer cars with the "semi-scale" couplers have HGC two-piece equalizing trucks. Be careful when removing these because they can fall apart when the screw is removed.
I mount the HGC trucks to a piece of plastic that has been tapped for 2-56 screws just to make sure eveything stays together while the box car is being worked on.
Then the floor needs to be removed from the box car body. This is a matter of simply prying the body away slightly until the nubbins release.
Only remove the floor slightly, then work the uncoupling levers and vertical brake rod from the floor connection points.
Then the floor can be removed all of the way.
Remove the coupler box/stirrup assemblies by sliding them out of the locating slots in the frame.
The original couplers and boxes will be discarded. Cut the stirrups off of the coupler boxes with a good pair of flush cutting nippers.
Make sure to leave a little of the guide that goes into the locating slot in the floor.
Now tap the factory drilled hole for a 2-56 screw.
I use Loctite super glue to attach the stirrups back onto the car floor. I use a big old glob of the stuff. It will be inside the body, so excess glue is not much of a concern here.
Let the glue fully harden before installing the floor back onto the box car body.
Then install the floor back into the car body.
The white pieces of 3/8" plastic angle are to keep the car upright while it is being painted.
After the car is painted, I install the "Full Size" coupler. I use #148 Whisker Couplers in the #242 snap together coupler boxes.
The #242 is a "universal" black box similar in size the the classic #232, but does not have the outside ears. I use the Kadee black plastic screw to hold these on. It disappears under the car in the shadows.
Now install the trucks and verify coupler height. It should be perfect.
There you have it. Simple conversion to "Full Size" couplers.
I hope this helped.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL I would be happy to send you a few, no worries. I will round them up get them on the way. By the way, at the train show last weekend I found more Ernst gear kits for the RDC's, so I am now making plans to use the ones you sent to built a close to accurate version of the B&O Speedliner train. Thanks. Sheldon
I would be happy to send you a few, no worries. I will round them up get them on the way.
By the way, at the train show last weekend I found more Ernst gear kits for the RDC's, so I am now making plans to use the ones you sent to built a close to accurate version of the B&O Speedliner train. Thanks.
Thanks in advance.
I'm glad the RDCs will finally be put to good use. I bought them on impulse at a train show about 10-15 years ago and they just sat in the boxes until last year I finally decided to open them up and see what it would take to convert the powered unit to DCC. That's when I discovered the rubber band drive mechanism and realized they would be more expense and trouble than they were worth. It sounds like you have the know-how to make them operational in DC. Good luck.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Doughless SeeYou190 Doughless Kadee Cars makes rolling stock. Those are high quality assembled, high detailed cars with their semi scale couplers installed, and metal wheels that are actually dark colored so that they look real (like plastic wheels). Thing is, their rolling resistance is pretty high, making them great cars for smaller layouts. Semi-scale couplers with more rolling resistant trucks right out of the box. Great company. Kadee undecorated tank cars and covered hoppers only came with semi-scale couplers. These cars have a unique coupler shank and are not easily converted to other Kadee couplers. I wrote to Kadee after purchasing a couple of these, and Sam helped out. He told me a "full size" head coupler is available for customer conversions where people do not want the semi-scale coupler. I placed an order, and now all my cars have full size coupler heads. -Photograph by Kevin Parson Yes, Kadee is a great company. -Kevin That's a great looking model Kevin. Yes, I have several of those exact covered hoppers factory painted for the FEC and Central of Georgia for when I want to run older era trains From my experience, those cars....at least the several I have, cant speak for every car Kadee has made.... have more rolling resistance than the typical new car produced by other manufacturers. They switch well, stock, right out of the box with their semi scale couplers. But I don't know how well they would work for building a 50 car train traversing a 2% grade. I suppose others would swap out the trucks or wheels. Too bad Kadee doesn't make contemporary era models, or they would be my go to source for rolling stock. Edit: I see Sheldon explained basically the same thing, so my response to him would be repetitive. And his solution is to modify (work-around) the standard kadee truck/wheelset issue. They make their trucks in every type and style for every era. And they offer semi scale wheelsets. In fact the HGC trucks can be purchased with code 88 wheeelsets installed. Changing trucks seems easier and more effective than adding weight. And even with your switching theme, you may see benefits to equilized trucks. Sheldon
Doughless SeeYou190 Doughless Kadee Cars makes rolling stock. Those are high quality assembled, high detailed cars with their semi scale couplers installed, and metal wheels that are actually dark colored so that they look real (like plastic wheels). Thing is, their rolling resistance is pretty high, making them great cars for smaller layouts. Semi-scale couplers with more rolling resistant trucks right out of the box. Great company. Kadee undecorated tank cars and covered hoppers only came with semi-scale couplers. These cars have a unique coupler shank and are not easily converted to other Kadee couplers. I wrote to Kadee after purchasing a couple of these, and Sam helped out. He told me a "full size" head coupler is available for customer conversions where people do not want the semi-scale coupler. I placed an order, and now all my cars have full size coupler heads. -Photograph by Kevin Parson Yes, Kadee is a great company. -Kevin That's a great looking model Kevin. Yes, I have several of those exact covered hoppers factory painted for the FEC and Central of Georgia for when I want to run older era trains From my experience, those cars....at least the several I have, cant speak for every car Kadee has made.... have more rolling resistance than the typical new car produced by other manufacturers. They switch well, stock, right out of the box with their semi scale couplers. But I don't know how well they would work for building a 50 car train traversing a 2% grade. I suppose others would swap out the trucks or wheels. Too bad Kadee doesn't make contemporary era models, or they would be my go to source for rolling stock. Edit: I see Sheldon explained basically the same thing, so my response to him would be repetitive. And his solution is to modify (work-around) the standard kadee truck/wheelset issue.
SeeYou190 Doughless Kadee Cars makes rolling stock. Those are high quality assembled, high detailed cars with their semi scale couplers installed, and metal wheels that are actually dark colored so that they look real (like plastic wheels). Thing is, their rolling resistance is pretty high, making them great cars for smaller layouts. Semi-scale couplers with more rolling resistant trucks right out of the box. Great company. Kadee undecorated tank cars and covered hoppers only came with semi-scale couplers. These cars have a unique coupler shank and are not easily converted to other Kadee couplers. I wrote to Kadee after purchasing a couple of these, and Sam helped out. He told me a "full size" head coupler is available for customer conversions where people do not want the semi-scale coupler. I placed an order, and now all my cars have full size coupler heads. -Photograph by Kevin Parson Yes, Kadee is a great company. -Kevin
Doughless Kadee Cars makes rolling stock. Those are high quality assembled, high detailed cars with their semi scale couplers installed, and metal wheels that are actually dark colored so that they look real (like plastic wheels). Thing is, their rolling resistance is pretty high, making them great cars for smaller layouts. Semi-scale couplers with more rolling resistant trucks right out of the box. Great company.
Kadee undecorated tank cars and covered hoppers only came with semi-scale couplers.
These cars have a unique coupler shank and are not easily converted to other Kadee couplers.
I wrote to Kadee after purchasing a couple of these, and Sam helped out. He told me a "full size" head coupler is available for customer conversions where people do not want the semi-scale coupler.
I placed an order, and now all my cars have full size coupler heads.
Yes, Kadee is a great company.
That's a great looking model Kevin.
Yes, I have several of those exact covered hoppers factory painted for the FEC and Central of Georgia for when I want to run older era trains
From my experience, those cars....at least the several I have, cant speak for every car Kadee has made.... have more rolling resistance than the typical new car produced by other manufacturers. They switch well, stock, right out of the box with their semi scale couplers. But I don't know how well they would work for building a 50 car train traversing a 2% grade. I suppose others would swap out the trucks or wheels.
Too bad Kadee doesn't make contemporary era models, or they would be my go to source for rolling stock.
Edit: I see Sheldon explained basically the same thing, so my response to him would be repetitive. And his solution is to modify (work-around) the standard kadee truck/wheelset issue.
They make their trucks in every type and style for every era. And they offer semi scale wheelsets. In fact the HGC trucks can be purchased with code 88 wheeelsets installed. Changing trucks seems easier and more effective than adding weight.
And even with your switching theme, you may see benefits to equilized trucks.
Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can find at Kadee regarding 36 inch wheelsets/trucks. Since I only need about 60 cars for the layout, it might be a worthwhile expense.
The proper way to add weight would be to disassemble a car and add more weight to where the manufacturer placed it, over the wheels if possible although there are easier places to add it. But disassembling a modern, highly detailed, car is not encouraged.
Still, rolling resistance or not, I prefer the feel of a heavier car than what the standard weight generally is, but I don't have the long train/grades issues that others have to fight with.
Edit: I see that you already searched the Kadee site. Thanks.
John-NYBW ATLANTIC CENTRAL When Kadee first switched to installing the semi scale coupler on their rolling stock, it was possible to purchase the older original head version and replace them. I bought a reasonable stock of those couplers for just such occasions, although to this date I only have a small roster of Kadee rolling stock. They have since discontinued the original head version of the coupler that fits their rolling stock. I replied to Kevin's post before reading yours. I see now the larger head couplers are no longer available for Kadee rolling stock. Do you have enough of those couplers in stock that you could sell me a pair of them for my Kadee D&H boxcar? If not, can you give me the number of the coupler. I might be able to find it on ebay.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL When Kadee first switched to installing the semi scale coupler on their rolling stock, it was possible to purchase the older original head version and replace them. I bought a reasonable stock of those couplers for just such occasions, although to this date I only have a small roster of Kadee rolling stock. They have since discontinued the original head version of the coupler that fits their rolling stock.
When Kadee first switched to installing the semi scale coupler on their rolling stock, it was possible to purchase the older original head version and replace them. I bought a reasonable stock of those couplers for just such occasions, although to this date I only have a small roster of Kadee rolling stock. They have since discontinued the original head version of the coupler that fits their rolling stock.
I replied to Kevin's post before reading yours. I see now the larger head couplers are no longer available for Kadee rolling stock. Do you have enough of those couplers in stock that you could sell me a pair of them for my Kadee D&H boxcar? If not, can you give me the number of the coupler. I might be able to find it on ebay.
The Kadee HGC 100 ton roller bearing truck is offered with 36" code 88 wheels.
https://www.kadee.com/shop-by-category/trucks-and-wheels/ho-scale-trucks-and-wheels/1569-ho-scale-a-s-f-100-ton-roller-bearing-self-centering-trucks-with-36-smooth-back-code-88-semi-scale-wheels-hgc
And the 36" code 88 wheels are offered separately.
I'm sure Kadee has NO plans to change any of these products. They have a large and loyal following for all these different versions of their product and no incentive to change any of it.
Most of the people willing to spend $13 on a pair trucks understand exactly what they are buying - that is why they are buying them.
I strongly suspect that a great many of their customers are just like you, happy with cars that will not roll away.
One other note about my choice. There is some high level physics to suggest that my refitted trucks actually require just a little more force to get moving than the average cheap plastic one piece plastic truck with metal wheels on most rolling stock today, but then have stronger inertia once moving, lowing the energy required to keep them moving. This would account for the improvement in pulling ability even on grades and would contribute to why coupling a single car is not a problem.
And I strongly believe having the weight lower, by having the trucks made of metal (or HGC) is an advantage in all of this as well.
SeeYou190 n012944 Because some of us want to be as close as possible? As close as possible would be Proto-87, not odd looking semi-scale couplers or wide-frame-gap code 88 wheels.
n012944 Because some of us want to be as close as possible?
As close as possible would be Proto-87, not odd looking semi-scale couplers or wide-frame-gap code 88 wheels.
Of course, so some take the happy medium of not customizing everything. However we don't want to look at #5's that are almost S scale, or wheels that are as wide as the 355's on the back of my Viper.
An "expensive model collector"