hon30critter Those bits are designed to be used in commercial drill presses where there is no wobble or flexing. If you try to use those bits by hand, when you wobble a bit (which you will) the drill will likely break at the tip of the large shank.
.
I have been using these drills for more than ten years, and I will never go back.
I do break a few, but that is a fair trade off for never needing to change a collet and how securely the bits are held in place to the drilling handle.
These alse drill into brass, pewter, and tin better than any drill style I have ever used.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Yepper. That's why a drill size chart is so handy to have around.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstageActually, in reality - it's somewhat non-linear
It's not a percentage, if it were, it would be exponential (non-linear). It's inconsistent (especially around #30)
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
HOmainline...Sorry, it just makes no sense to me to use drill "numbers". You measure the bit you want to install with a micrometer or caliper, in actual size, then choose the bit directly, without having to look it up in a chart...
I have a drill bit chart hanging on the wall in my shop. If I measure the part, then it's a simple matter to look at the chart, find the corresponding size and select the proper bit...
The chart covers numbered, lettered, and fractional sizes, along with drill sizes for tapping. I'm not generally a fan of adhesive for gap-filling when I can do the job properly, but there are occasions, not related to drill bits, where it's sometimes necessary.
Wayne
Canalligators I have a 61-80 set and rarely use the bits in there. The ones I use most are .078, .0625, .055, .047 and .040. Occasionally the .035. I am also of the school of letting the adhesive fill the gap. Sorry, it just makes no sense to me to use drill "numbers". You measure the bit you want to install with a micrometer or caliper, in actual size, then choose the bit directly, without having to look it up in a chart. Better yet, do it all metric. I'll shut up now.
I have a 61-80 set and rarely use the bits in there. The ones I use most are .078, .0625, .055, .047 and .040. Occasionally the .035. I am also of the school of letting the adhesive fill the gap.
Sorry, it just makes no sense to me to use drill "numbers". You measure the bit you want to install with a micrometer or caliper, in actual size, then choose the bit directly, without having to look it up in a chart.
Better yet, do it all metric. I'll shut up now.
A good tip!
Kerry
gregc maxman HOmainline" gregc the OP already has a set of #61 - #80 drills he's looking for a drill set for #1 - #60 that indicates the drill size in inches not metric. I see drill boxes without any sizes here's a listing a drills by # and size Greg, Ah, an attentive eye for accurate reading of the question! You drilled that answer right down the middle of the plate!! The #/in./mm chart is a big help too. I'm curious why the set would come with metric sizes. The #1 to #60 set I have has the drill number, and below that is listed the decimal size. I can't think of any reason for the set to be metric. i'll guess that the size of each numbered drill is some percentage of the drill with the next smaller number.
maxman HOmainline" gregc the OP already has a set of #61 - #80 drills he's looking for a drill set for #1 - #60 that indicates the drill size in inches not metric. I see drill boxes without any sizes here's a listing a drills by # and size Greg, Ah, an attentive eye for accurate reading of the question! You drilled that answer right down the middle of the plate!! The #/in./mm chart is a big help too. I'm curious why the set would come with metric sizes. The #1 to #60 set I have has the drill number, and below that is listed the decimal size. I can't think of any reason for the set to be metric.
HOmainline"
gregc the OP already has a set of #61 - #80 drills he's looking for a drill set for #1 - #60 that indicates the drill size in inches not metric. I see drill boxes without any sizes here's a listing a drills by # and size Greg, Ah, an attentive eye for accurate reading of the question! You drilled that answer right down the middle of the plate!! The #/in./mm chart is a big help too.
the OP already has a set of #61 - #80 drills
he's looking for a drill set for #1 - #60 that indicates the drill size in inches not metric. I see drill boxes without any sizes
here's a listing a drills by # and size
I'm curious why the set would come with metric sizes. The #1 to #60 set I have has the drill number, and below that is listed the decimal size. I can't think of any reason for the set to be metric.
i'll guess that the size of each numbered drill is some percentage of the drill with the next smaller number.
Greg,
Actually, in reality - it's somewhat non-linear the rate the sizes increase or decrease between individually numbered drill bits - especially between #1 & #60: (Click to enlarge)
when i use my numbered or lettered drill sets, i'm looking for a drill closest to the size i need. having the drill holders stamped with both the number/letter and decimal size saves me the time of measuring the drill.
if you're working in metric, you would probably prefer that the drill sizes were in mm.
hon30critter buy the regular bits in bulk and chuck them so there is little more of the drill bit protruding from the chuck than is needed to get through the thickness of the material. Dave
buy the regular bits in bulk and chuck them so there is little more of the drill bit protruding from the chuck than is needed to get through the thickness of the material.
Dave
SeeYou190EDIT: WOW! I just looked on the Drill Bits Unlimited website, and they have drills all the way down to 0.004", GREAT GOOD MOLLY! My hands were never that steady. .
Hi Kevin:
I am going to politely suggest that you should not buy the micro drill bits with the large shanks if you are going to use them by hand. Those bits are designed to be used in commercial drill presses where there is no wobble or flexing. If you try to use those bits by hand, when you wobble a bit (which you will) the drill will likely break at the tip of the large shank. They may look sturdy but they are not! As others have said, buy the regular bits in bulk and chuck them so there is little more of the drill bit protruding from the chuck than is needed to get through the thickness of the material.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Genesee Terminal, freelanced HO in Upstate NY ...hosting Loon Bay Transit Authority and CSX Intermodal. Interchange with CSX (CR)(NYC).
CP/D&H, N scale, somewhere on the Canadian Shield
Unless you are drilling into metal, it's better to hand drill with drill bits #74 and smaller. You'll break less drill bits that way because of the tactile feedback you get from the pin vise vs an electric drill.
I have a Dremel cordless 8050 and at it's lowest speed, and putting a finger against the accessory chuck I bought, you can run it quite slow. However it is still a big lever attached to a micro drill bit. Plus starting a hole is a challenge because your hand is much further away from the tip of drill bit..
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-8050-N-18-Rotary-Accessories/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1534977180&sr=8-5&keywords=dremel+cordless
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
maxman RR_Mel Maxman I scanned eBay US sellers and didn’t find the same chuck, the chuck body on the one I bought is all silver colored. I found one from China that looks the same and has the same spec as the one I bought, 0-3mm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Tools-Quick-Change-Tool-Adapter-Converter-Keyless-Drill-Chuck-Hex-Shank/152620393711?hash=item2388e264ef:g:GdgAAOSwqVBZZQ8z Mel Mel: Thank you. I'm wondering how accurate and precise that item can be for under $4? When you insert the bit, does the end appear to be rotating straight (straightly?), or does it whip around in a figure-8 pattern? Thanks again.
RR_Mel Maxman I scanned eBay US sellers and didn’t find the same chuck, the chuck body on the one I bought is all silver colored. I found one from China that looks the same and has the same spec as the one I bought, 0-3mm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rotary-Tools-Quick-Change-Tool-Adapter-Converter-Keyless-Drill-Chuck-Hex-Shank/152620393711?hash=item2388e264ef:g:GdgAAOSwqVBZZQ8z Mel
Mel:
Thank you. I'm wondering how accurate and precise that item can be for under $4? When you insert the bit, does the end appear to be rotating straight (straightly?), or does it whip around in a figure-8 pattern?
Thanks again.
[quote user="HOmainline"]
[quote user="gregc"]
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby I have seen some numbered sets there. Pretty good price at about 4 dollars. They do have a carbide set too- but I am unsure of the sizes on them.
maxman RR_Mel I bought a hex mini chuck that fits my small 4 volt B&D 200 RPM drill and even old shaky hands Mel has drilled many #78 holes without breaking a bit. Click on the picture to make it larger Mel: Is that chuck a 3-jaw or a 4-jaw? Does it use collets, or do the jaws close to zero? And who made it? I have several pin vises, but all of them have 4-jaws and it is very difficult to get the small bits centered. Thanks
RR_Mel I bought a hex mini chuck that fits my small 4 volt B&D 200 RPM drill and even old shaky hands Mel has drilled many #78 holes without breaking a bit. Click on the picture to make it larger
Is that chuck a 3-jaw or a 4-jaw? Does it use collets, or do the jaws close to zero? And who made it?
I have several pin vises, but all of them have 4-jaws and it is very difficult to get the small bits centered.
Thanks
the 3-jaw chuck in the sear's bench drill press i bought for $99 30+ years ago holds an 0.025 drill bit
i'll add my two cents , if you plan on drilling a lot of small holes in metal i recemond this https://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html i got mine on a sale for 400$us . then bought a smooth wire bit holder to chuch in it.
RR_MelI bought a hex mini chuck that fits my small 4 volt B&D 200 RPM drill and even old shaky hands Mel has drilled many #78 holes without breaking a bit. Click on the picture to make it larger
Micromark has a #41 to #60 set comes in a folding vinyl see through numbered pouch. I have had a set for about 10 yrs.never broke a bit yet:
https://www.micromark.com/20-piece-Drill-Bit-Set-41-60
They did not cost that much when I bought mine either.
Hobbylinc has a deal on all drill bits by Excel, which I use alot. They come in single number 12 packs, all under 11.00 USD:
https://www.hobbylinc.com/hand-drill-tap-and-die
I use hobbylinc alot......their prices are all discounted on all major Mfg'ers.
For a 76 yr. old man with one shaky hand, I broke My share of small bits over the yr.s, working with white metal, pewter, brass, copper, plastic.....but I must say, I have not broke any bit as small as #79 in at least a yr. Keep only what You need sticking out of the chuck to drill the hole........and I never use any kind of batt or electric drill when using the tiny bits. I like the feel of it better, and use a drop of LaBelle #107 when starting a hole....especially in metals and of course a lot of patience...that part comes with practice.
Take Care!
Frank
riogrande5761 RR_Mel The small bits don’t last old shaky hands Mel very long. I started out with a metal drill 61-80 index and buy 10 packs as I break them. If you chuck the tiny ones so only a little of the drill is sticking out of the end of the PIN vise, it helps minimize breakage.
RR_Mel The small bits don’t last old shaky hands Mel very long. I started out with a metal drill 61-80 index and buy 10 packs as I break them.
If you chuck the tiny ones so only a little of the drill is sticking out of the end of the PIN vise, it helps minimize breakage.
RR_MelThe small bits don’t last old shaky hands Mel very long. I started out with a metal drill 61-80 index and buy 10 packs as I break them.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Drill Bits Unlimited Dot Com has sizes at least from 81 through 85, but they do not change much. I think the #85 is 8 or 9 tousandths of an inch.
They also have metric sizes even smaller.
The smallest drill bit I use is #78. I seem to break a #80 every time I use one. I bought 1,000 #78 drill bits in a closeout lot, so I think I managed to wrangle a lifetime supply of them.
Number size drill bits go all the way to zero, zero being the largest, then the sizes switch to letter sizes A-Z as they get larger from there with A being smallest and Z largest.
A letter N drill is 0.304", for some reason that is the only letter size drill I own. I don't remember why I needed it now.
EDIT: WOW! I just looked on the Drill Bits Unlimited website, and they have drills all the way down to 0.004", GREAT GOOD MOLLY! My hands were never that steady.
I totally agree with you, Bear. However, I actually prefer the metal drill bit storage boxes/cases, as they have the number and sizes written on the box. It also makes for convenient storage in a drawer when not in use.
As far as pin vises, I'm with Dave on preferring good qualities tools. The Starrett pin vises are not inexpensive but they hold drill bits extremely well and come with a knurled handle for improved grip and control. Worth their weight in gold to me.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."