What paints are good for models, I'm looking for flat colors, and what's the best low cost application method?
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
Krylon rattle cans.
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-Kevin
Living the dream.
Testors makes a great selection of oil and acrylic "flat" model paints. With proper care, they will last for years. You can get what you need at most Hobby Lobby or Michaels stores.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Rattle can primers that you can buy at the local hardware store are the most economical. Rustolium and Krylon are the typical brands. In my opinion, over the last ten years or so, the selection of flat color primers that are formulated to adhere to plastics, has increased significantly.
Modeling the B&M Railroad during the transition era in Lowell, MA
I agree that there are no short cuts in the area of primers. However, when filtered and covered with a good clear coat, craft acrylic paint can be used for rolling stock. They can be applied with an airbrush. Valleyo makes a thinner for acrylics that works well with these paints. I use it for weathering and detailing, but also for more major components. I wonder if some makes are better than others.
For the airbrush, you can get a low cost kit, with airbrush and compressor included. It is worth the investment.
Simon
I like to use an airbrush for painting and my method is getting whatever cheap rattle can spray paint and then decanting it into small bottles. Most rattle cans put a lot of paint out when pressed and I like the control of an airbrush although Tester and Tamiya have some pretty good cans but they are expensive.
Some people say use glass jars, but I have not had a problem using 2oz Boston Round plastic bottles with lids. I have some paint sitting from a year and a half ago that is still good. The key is only take from the can what you are going to use. All you really need is a bottle and a straw to tape on the nozzle.
I do the same with my primers except I really like Tamiya Fine surface primer which is expensive, but it will not cover up fine detail like some of the heavier primers do.
That is my method for lacquer, enamel but if I am using acrylic I love to use the cheap craft paint and thin it out with a mix of 50/50 distilled water and the blue windshield washer fluid and a few drops of vegetable glycerin to help lubricate the needle and parts of the airbrush. Craft paint is great because you can get it for .99 for a 2oz bottle and they have hundreds of colors.
We're probably thinking mostly of rolling stock, but for buildings the $0.99 acrylic craft paints are fine for structures. I usually prime the building with rattle cans, including inside walls to prevent glow from interior lighting. The outside walls get brushed cheap acrylics, mixed to a color shade I like, followed by light washes for some weathering. Then Dullcote spray.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Depends, what's your "budget"? Your budget and my budget are different. As far as flat, inexpensive paints, I would recommend acrylics in the 2 oz. size from your local arts/crafts hobby store, they range in price from $1 to $3.
Are you applying with a brush or airbrush? If you're planning on using an airbrush (and never had one), I would recommend this kit http://www.tcpglobal.com/MASKIT-VC16-B22.html#.Wq5yCOjwaM8 for $50. I think it's a great deal and works better than I expected.
Oh, as far as "budget". Several months ago when Amazon had their "prime sales", I was able to pick up a Neo for Iwata airbrush for $52 with free shipping. For some people, that may have been out of their budget. For me, I didn't need another airbrush, but couldn't pass the deal, and glad I bought it, it works great.
Terry
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
Are you planning to put decals on these models? If so, they will need to be applied to a glossy surface. If you use flat paint, you will have to put on a glossy clearcoat before applying decals, then dullcoat after. You may find it easier to use a gloss color coat and save a step.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I prefer rattle-can sprays from the hardware store. A decent LHS can provide a few special colors like Engine Black or Grimey Black.
I use blue painters' tape to mask areas to be painted and protect couplers and trucks. When it comes down to very small details, I brush-paint with craft-store acrylics.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I have an airbrush and use the standard paints with it, but I often use a variety of rattle can paints, Krylon/Rust Oleum primers and camouflage, and some Tamiya spray paints for certain colors as well. Tamiya is not cheap but it has some shades that I really like for flatcar decks and other uses. I use rattle can DullCote too.
Because I have an airbrush I also have a properly vented spray booth that I use with rattle cans as well, and take other precautions including using latex non powdered gloves. When possible the rattle cans are applied outdoors but the lesson is, rattle cans are not a reason to take any fewer precautions than with an airbrush. If I did not have the vented spray booth I'd do everything outdoors. I do not believe there is any such thing as the much mentioned "well ventilated space" inside a house even with every window open.
There are ways to be frugal with rattle cans and get more value out of them. One is to always shake them enough -- Jeff Wilson in one of his books recommends no LESS than two full minutes and I try to follow that. The two minutes begin when you hear the marble or ball bearing or whatever it is start to rattle. Cans that have been sitting can take quite a while before that sound begins. That way you are getting the best possible results you can with the admittedly imperfect rattle cans.
When done, make sure to hold the can upside down and spray to clear out the nozzle. That may not sound frugal, but it is more frugal than throwing away a perfectly good can because it is hopelessly clogged.
If a can is empty but the nozzle still gives good service, toss the can but save the nozzle and throw it in some paint thinner. It may come in handy some day. Nozzles ofen clog before the paint runs out.
One way to be frugal about holding the can upside down to clean out the nozzle, which yes does "waste" paint, is to think ahead and get the most use out of a single session with that can of paint (or DullCote) that you can before you clean it out. Gather your projects and keep notes about what needs to be done so you are efficient.
And last in my frugality suggestions: at least where I live every Sunday paper has a coupon from Michael's craft store (and Hobby Lobby too as a rule) for 40%, sometimes 50% any one item. They sell rattle can paints.
Dave Nelson
The old, out of production, Floquil lacquers are really good. I still have a stash. The rattle can auto primers (gray, dark gray, and red) from Krylon or Rustoleum are good. The craft store acrylics work for me, although if you are painting rolling stock and need B&M Blue or NYC green, or any railroad's trademark colors, you have to take your own color sample to the store, and match it to the paint on sale. Do your color matching under daylight, not the store's fluorescent lamps.
Rattle cans properly used give me a good even, no brush marks finish. Prep the surface well, hot soapy water, scrub with a toothbrush, hot water rinse, and good long overnight dry. Don't touch the cleaned model with your bare hands, the fingerprints can show thru the paint. Shake the bejesus out of the rattle can, like a minute or more, to get the pigment off the bottom of the can and into solution. You can raise the pressure of the can by running hot water over it. Pick a distance that lets the paint go on just wet. Keep the paint coat light to prevent sags and runs. Push the button to start the spray BEFORE the can reaches the beginning of the model. Keep it pressed until the paint spray is fully OFF the end of the model. I use rattle cans out on my deck to keep the paint smell out of the house. When finished painting, hold the rattle can upside down and press the button until the spray comes out clear. This cleans the paint out of the nozzle.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
The best and cheapest primers used to be ones you could get a k-mart. K-mart is in their death throws now so have to pay more for basicaly the same stuff.
Some of the Rustoleum cans do not require spraying with the can upside down to clear the nozzle. They will spray continously in that position. The instructions say to just wipe the nozzle before storing.
Mark Vinski
What you going to paint? For securing ground foam, I use cheap shades of brown paint at the "oops" table of HD or Lowes. They also often have different types of green too for hills, ground, etc.
For scenery or structures, I get the cheapest craft paint available. Wal Mart and any craft store sells a wide variety. Michaels and JoAnn offer coupons frequently. Definately sign up for them!
To apply, I get brushes and rollers. Call me cheap, but I can't afford an air brush setup.
I'm painting some diesel locomotives, I want the best cheap method that produces a good looking model, I'm wanting to spend under 50 on the whole paint job which is two P42 A units and a to be bashed B unit, the decals will be a problem being that they'll be custom made and probably be a fortune.
I've noticed that too, it's the cans with the "different" looking nozzel that doesn't come off, like the familular red spray nozzels do.
I've seen it on different brands, too.
They spray upside down as good as upright. I was always old school about sraying upside down to clear out the nozzel, not so much now.
If the "other" style does plug up, good luck. Some times a fine wire and some lacquer thinner will work.
Spray cans of paint, from hardware store, any of the big box stores, or from where ever is the cheapest way to go.
I've emptied some paint from cans, into a jar, or plastic cup, and used it in my air brush.
I've also learned when masking, take a peice of blue tape off the roll, and cut a new edge with a new blade, and then burnish the tape along the joint you wish to make. Much cleaner joint.
Or you can get the tape that Frank (Zstripe) uses.
Mike.
EDIT: I forgot to ad the quote from Mark, above. The tape Frank uses is in his post on the "Spraying with rattle cans" thread.
My You Tube
A Harbor freight dual action airbrush - ~$29 (Single action is cheaper.)
Craft Store Acrylic's - $1-$3 each (Most of mine are the $1 versions.)
Acrylic airbrush medium - ~$20 (coupons can lower it by 40% to ~$12) This will last a long time!
Total cost - ~$49-$52 for one color. Add $1-$3 per additional color.
(If you already have an airbrush, you save the $29 or so dollars. Makes total cost $21-$23 one color, add $1-3 per additional color. One bottle of airbrush medium will last for dozens of colors and even more models. I average one color mix per 5-6 models, if primed I can paint 8-10 models each color mix, and get dozens of color mixes per airbrush medium bottle.)
Yes, the airbrush and airbrush medium are what adds price, but one you have them, it's cheap paint, and each bottle of paint color gives dozens of mixes. Average each of those color mixes over the 10 or so models, and each one is probably cheaper to paint than using even cheap Krylon rattle cans. (Stored properly, these painting ingredients will last as long, or longer, than rattle cans.)
If you can possibly afford it, I would add in Flow Aid - It helps airbrushed colors flow smoother and mix and cover better. It averages $8 and contains enough for probably ~100 color mixes. (So long as it don't evaporate before that!)
And, for thinning even further, distilled water from the grocery store - ~$1 per gallon. (Again, enough for dozens, to well over 100 color mixes.)
So, either a rattle can or craft store acrylic's.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I need three colors all greens, dark, light, and medium.
I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
A few extra thoughts:
-buying bottled paint allows you to make touch-ups with a brush. 100% painting without touch-ups is rather rare.
-You will need a compressor if you buy an airbrush. A compressor+airbrush kit is cheaper than buying them separately.
- A 50$ budget is tight. Rattle cans is the only solution if you are starting from nothing. Do you have a birthday coming up? How about other sources of revenues?
What paint would be the best to use? I'm really going for flat paint equivalent to what Accurail, I really like the quality of their paint jobs.
I've got 100 bucks saved up so I can afford an airbrush setup.
Excellent, now you can start shopping for a low cost airbrush and compressor. You won't find this in a hobby shop, unless you combine a good quality airbrush with a compressor from a hardware store (oilless). As suggested earlier, you can find a low cost compressor and airbrush at Harbour Freight (and other places). They are way more quiet than the hardware store compressors, that are way more powerful than necessary. You should have enough money left to buy bottled paint.
The Accurail site states that they use Polly scale paints for their models, but these are not available anymore. You will need to choose between solvent based or water based paints. Lots of debates on this forum about the merits of each, and I'm not going to start one here. Polly scale was water based and equivalents would be Acryl by Modelmaster, Vallejo paints, Modelflex and Proto-paint by Rapido. The most commonly mentioned solvent based paint here is Scalecoat. If you have access to a hobby shop, I suggest you have a chat with someone there and experiment with one or another. Searching this forum will lead you to discussions on the merits of each one.
Good luck!
PennCentral99 Depends, what's your "budget"? Your budget and my budget are different. As far as flat, inexpensive paints, I would recommend acrylics in the 2 oz. size from your local arts/crafts hobby store, they range in price from $1 to $3. Are you applying with a brush or airbrush? If you're planning on using an airbrush (and never had one), I would recommend this kit http://www.tcpglobal.com/MASKIT-VC16-B22.html#.Wq5yCOjwaM8 for $50. I think it's a great deal and works better than I expected. Oh, as far as "budget". Several months ago when Amazon had their "prime sales", I was able to pick up a Neo for Iwata airbrush for $52 with free shipping. For some people, that may have been out of their budget. For me, I didn't need another airbrush, but couldn't pass the deal, and glad I bought it, it works great. Terry
NWP SWPWhat paint would be the best to use? I'm really going for flat paint equivalent to what Accurail, I really like the quality of their paint jobs.
Tamiya spray paints.
Spend the other $80.00 on basic modeling tools.
Airbrush can come along later.
An air compressor is a wonderful thing to have for those that do a lot of air - brushing. But for those of us who use it on occasion, cans of Propel (compressed air for air brushes) work just fine. I've painted a number of cars with this method and also done some weathering and the results were quite good (if I say so myself).
I also agree that Tamiya spray cans work exceptionally well, and I've painted some auto models with them and give them an "A plus".
All this said, given the plethora of projects the OP has put on his plate, I think it will be some time before he gets to air brushing...........
If I get an airbrush what paint could I use? Could I go to say Home Depot and get a quart of matte/eggshell paint in the color I want? Or would those paints be the wrong formula?
From what I've done with an air brush, anything that is thinned to about the consistancy of 2% milk will work, with pressure between 20 and 35 psi, adjust to what works.
As I mentioned in my early post, I take paint from spray cans, empty some into a jar, and use in my air brush. Spray can paint is generally thin enough right from the can, so no extra thinning would be needed.
Steven,
Why not save your pennies and umpteen questions and "invest" $20 on a Kalmbach book about tips on painting, like this one:
This will give you a good foundation - whether you paint with a brush, or spraypaint with rattle cans or an airbrush.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
NWP SWPIf I get an airbrush what paint could I use? Could I go to say Home Depot and get a quart of matte/eggshell paint in the color I want?
If you are talking about latex house paint... NO! That is not formulated for airbrushing by any means.
I have used flat black Rust-O-Leum thinned about 50% with mineral spirits in an airbrush as a primer. This is available at Home Depot in quart size cans. I usually only do this when I have an entire army to prime.
Again... for what you are wanting to do, start with Tamiya spray cans. Once you get the basics of spray painting, move onto an airbrush, then try to fomulate your own custom paint colours.