SeeYou190 Rix used to make a really useful tool with two magnets that could be set on the outside of the cars like a portable uncoupler. It was pretty slick. I have two of the Rix uncouplers. Sometimes they work, sometimes not so much. . It won't work if you are cutting off the trip pins. . -Kevin .
Rix used to make a really useful tool with two magnets that could be set on the outside of the cars like a portable uncoupler. It was pretty slick.
I have two of the Rix uncouplers. Sometimes they work, sometimes not so much.
.
It won't work if you are cutting off the trip pins.
-Kevin
i tried again with the metal couplers. i think there is big difference between the #5 and #148. much less of a problem uncoupling #5/#5. there's more space inside the #5
i didn't think there was a problem with a height difference. I recognize the difference between droop, where the coupler is now at an angle. i agree there are problems with droopy couplers
but the other thing i've noticed, especially with the metal couplers is that once something forces the hands (moving part) apart, there little room between them and the opposite coupler body, and therefore little room for them to swing open
however, if the skewer is filed down more like a blade, it can be inserted not just between the hands, but to one side so that when twisted, it actually pushes the hand to the side. perhaps a little pressure in the opposite direction actually moves the couplers apart laterally. Perhaps this is part of the "feel".
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
gregci have a problem with #5 and and #148 (metal) coupler. I had thought the difference was the different types of coupler, the 148 is smaller. But they are not at the same height. i'll correct the height and try again. do anyone know why height is important?
I believe height is important (other than for avoiding uncoupling problems, as has been mentioned), because when you're inserting the point of the skewer between couplers, you're not pushing straight down on both couplers so that they both can open at the same time. I haven't observed it that closely to verify that that's what happens, but the "feel" is different when attempting to uncouple cars when either one or both couplers are drooping.
tedteddersonI use the pointy tool that came with my soldering iron. Other than uncoupling cars, I have no idea what it's for.
You mean that tool with the red plastic middle section and the pointy aluminum thing on each end? I think it is supposed to help you hold things you want to solder together. The solder won't join anything to the aluminum.
UNCLEBUTCH tedtedderson Other than uncoupling cars, I have no idea what it's for To make holes in foam to drop wires or plant trees
tedtedderson Other than uncoupling cars, I have no idea what it's for
To make holes in foam to drop wires or plant trees
tedteddersonOther than uncoupling cars, I have no idea what it's for
I use the pointy tool that came with my soldering iron.
Other than uncoupling cars, I have no idea what it's for.
I rest the point in between couplers then twist. Slack helps.
I know when I tried the first few times it didn't work right. Kind of have to get the feel for it.
T e d
Skewer won't work with double shelf couplers.
I use a skewer and, as mentioned, there has to be a little slack betwen the couplers. However, I have also decoupled with a skewer with no slack.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
I don't know about height as it pertains to using skewers to uncouple, but in general height is important because if you have any grades and the coupler is already engaging with half the face or less, it can easily slip out and dump half your train back down the hill. Even small irregularities, or dropping sidings lower than the main with either thinner roadbed or smaller code rail can do this.
Only thing skewer related I can think of is that you don't jam the skewer in and through the entire coupler head, and the idea of the twisting action is to push the two knuckles away from each other. If you only catch one, there's no leverage and likely neither one moves.
You're right, there is a bit of a feel to it, but once you get it, it will ber pretty much 100% unless you are trying to uncouple at a spot where the couplers are stretched tight, or something else is interfering. I doubt this works well with upper shelf couplers, but I model an earlier era and have none of those.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
E-L man tom2. No drooping couplers, couplers must be at the same height, and,
i have a problem with #5 and and #148 (metal) coupler. I had thought the difference was the different types of coupler, the 148 is smaller. But they are not at the same height.
i'll correct the height and try again.
do anyone know why height is important?
but i still think there's a feel to it. i've struggled, then they just pop open.
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
Alan
The US version called Proxabrush works too. The brush refills look like very miniature pine trees and can be attached to a handle to use. They work rather well this way.
Joe
Greg and all,
I too have problems with skewers, RIX magnet and other manual uncoupling tools, but I found this to be effective 99% of the time. You can get them at the dental hygene section of your favourite store. The ones with nylon bristles not the rubbery ones.
I use the skewers and in my experience, there has to be three things.
1. No kadee knock-offs.
2. No drooping couplers, couplers must be at the same height, and,
3. I have found that the thicker skewers work the best, why, I don't really know, but they work fine for me.
Slack, I suppose, does matter, but you can gently adjust the slack with the skewer when uncoupling.
sorry, but i've looked at some videos. all i see a guy jamming something into the couplers. As i said a post a while back, i was able to uncouple a string of coal hoppers.
but i have problems with other cars. including one of the coal cars coupled to the tender
i'd like to see a video where a guy has a problem and explain why this pair of couplers is a problem
YouTube is your friend.
(Kids Today!)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3gwwzJDwUI
All I've ever done is file a slight flat at the end of the skewer. What I have found is that this ONLY works well with real Kadees - Accumates and other knockoffs tend to not want to uncouple. Which is fine - any non-Kadee couplers I replace with Kadees anyway. The bit of a flat area lets the skewer get in to the overlapping edhe of the kadee knuckle and diengage it - this is the part that keeps the couplers from opening up all the way when passing over an uncoupling magnet as long as there is some tension on them.
I use an uncoupling tool made by inserting a pipe cleaner into an empty ink tube from a ball point pen. The placement in the knuckles doesn't seem to be as critical with the fuzzy end. When the fuzz wears down just cut off a small piece of the pipe cleaner to expose fresh fuzz. There must be slack in the couplers. No method works without it, even on the prototype.
I've operated HO layouts hundreds of times and have uncoupled untold thousands more. The secret is slack. There must be slack or it just won't work. Note that Kadee knuckles have a finger tip hook on them. Any uncoupler must get between the two finger tip hooks. It can't do that without slack.
When I uncouple, I extend my little finger and rest it lightly on the top of one of the cars. Using gentle force, I push it towards the other car while at the same time inserting a bamboo skewer into the resulting gap between coupler knuckles caused by the slack action. I twist the stick to "pop" the couplers apart, rather than pushing down. After I uncouple, I let my little finger roll the car back a tiny bit if I want to leave the car there, or I will use it to push the cars back together and "delay" the Kadees if I'm spotting the car.
Generally, I prefer magnets, but some times you need to spot a car where there is no magnet.
BTW, one problem with the Rix Magnet wand is that they tend to stick to metal grabs, like the ones on some Walthers cars.
Also, for the darker areas of your layout, try taping a small LED light to a bamboo skewer. I've done it and it works so much better in the darker areas.
I have found that gently pushing one car or the other while twisting works best.
I have also found that I have to make sure the skewer end goes in between the hook parts of the two couplers.
Paul
Lone Wolf and Santa Fe
Yes! The secret is to LICK the skewer before inserting it between the couplers....
I too have noted a failure rate with the skewer/swizzle stick/thin blade approach. I have also noted on layouts that feature these uncoupling methods that there is a mortality rate on the couplers from those guys who perhaps unconsciously press down rather hard while twisting, whether the coupler pocket is screwed in place, glued in place, or uses the old Athearn metal clip. Even if the coupler does not come loose, over time coupler sag can set in.
The concern about fine details is well placed, particularly if you add air hoses, cut levers, and other such niceties. Yet if you add those details (or like to buy cars that have them) you are perhaps the least likely to want to retain the Kadee or clone "elbow" beneath the knuckle.
Maybe John Allen knew best. We should never have abandoned the Baker Coupler.
Dave Nelson
I also have a lot of trouble with a pointy thing, tryed many. I made a hook kinda like Mr Wolf's above. More of a ''s'' with a flat end,just hook an air line, works way better for me
Try a piece of metal with a couple of 90 degree bends in the end. It works a lot better. I made these tools using the design from Lionel Strang. Use it to grab the air hose. Make sure there is slack in the couplers.
from Kadee Dual Tool
first push the cars together where the coupler knuckles compress against each other, insert the pointed end against the "outside" of the hooked tip of the knuckle as illustrated (the knuckle is the moving part of the coupler head). As the point slips into the coupler it will push the knuckle past the hook of the opposing knuckle. To assist the uncoupling you can push the knuckle tip outward with the point, when the knuckle tips are past each other you can now separate the uncoupled cars.
mbinsewigive a slight nudge to one side, and they easily come apart.
chatanuga If I run into difficulties, I can just use the skewer to pull the coupler pin to the side, which is what I do with my passenger cars.
so a little side pressure may help
JoeinPAI've found that the skewer method works well when you have two Kadee couplers but when it's a Kadee and a clone it doesn't work as well
i just tried a string of hoppers and had no problems. I've had problems with box cars from various sources (ebay), assembled by others and with couplers that need height adjustment. I've replaced non-kaddee with both #5 and #148
what about kadee #5 and metal kadee coupler?
what about couplers of different heights (yet to be adjusted)?
i've tried the Rix tool.
thanks for all the advice
I've found that the skewer method works well when you have two Kadee couplers but when it's a Kadee and a clone it doesn't work as well. In the latter case the Rix tool has usually worked.
Do I hear an echo ?
I tried the Rix tool, went back to the skewer.
Mike.
My You Tube
You can also search You Tube. I just did.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.