First of all you need to determine what scale you want to be into. I first started with N scale thanks to my dad then got older and bolder and went into HO scale. My uncle had a fiber tie with brass track layout on the back porch which I rebuilt with plastic tie nickle silver sectional track and flex track. I was impressed to get it to run at age 15 ! Later went into N scale until my eyes got bad and went back to HO scale. Haven't looked back since. I'm building a double track main with blocks to allow 2 trains to run continuously and two separate yards one being for many Walthers passenger cars I have collected over the years.Maybe one day that layout will be finished in my own basement instead of the spare bedroom(10 by 9) that is there now.
One thing does help in deciding what railroad you want to model is availibility of roadnames in the scale you will prefer. You can't go wrong following the big names,Pennsylvania,New York Central,Santa Fe,Union Pacific and later BNSF ,NS, and CSX. For any scale these roads are well available in hobby shops. You may want to find some all color books by Morning Sun to peak your interest in what each railroad has to offer in terms of rolling stock ,buildings and settings to model. Start small and your interest may grow just watch your wallet some stuff is $$$$! Research the design then build. All baby steps in planning your future interests. Good Luck. Steve
atseibert74 What does everyone like to use for track underlayment? My local shop has black foam strips and cork strips. Which do you prefer or what other options are out there? Thanks!
What does everyone like to use for track underlayment? My local shop has black foam strips and cork strips. Which do you prefer or what other options are out there? Thanks!
I personally prefer cork, as I hand-lay track and it doesn't melt with soldering. I used cardboard for one of my layouts, and laid track directly onto the wood for another one.
Thank you bigdaddy and bearman!
With DC you are not controlling the locomotive, you are controlling the track. If you want to speed the train up, you turn up the juice. If you want to make the train go backward, you flip the switch on the transformer to reverse the polarity.
With DCC, you are controlling the locomotive, not the electricity to the rails, and the DCC throttle sends a signal to the decoder (circuit board) in the locomotive through the rails. The rails are nothing more than a conduit for the signal to the locomotive.
Check this link out: https://blog.micromark.com/dc-vs-dcc-which-is-right-for-your-layout/
and this one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XmLEj_C5_k
Bear "It's all about having fun."
BigDaddy atseibert74 What are the differences between DC & DCC? Oh my
atseibert74 What are the differences between DC & DCC?
Oh my
I was wondering who was gonna pick this up . . .
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
atseibert74What are the differences between DC & DCC?
With DC, you vary the voltage in the track. More volts, more speed and brighter headlight.
With DCC, it is a form of AC current and how it alternates and the shape of the wave form creates a huge menu of things that you can get a loco to do, including speaking, in a figurative sense, to that specific loco, while at the same time you are also controlling other locos.
Many, perhaps half, still run DC. A large layout is typically divided into blocks and with multiple throttles, it is possible to run a couple trains at the same time, but not in the same block, at least not independently. Blocks aren't needed in DCC but it likes better wiring and clean track.
DCC has more sound options, though the latest and greatest DC locos have some sounds. Not everyone is a fan of sound. Even those that are, find the factory level of sound too loud and have no use for some sounds, like crew chatter. That's a personal decision you have to make. I like sound.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
bearman If you are going to freelance PRR, then you might want to consider the transition era, as steam locomotives were phased out of service and diesel locomotives were phased into service. My guess is that somewhere on the internet someone has listed every single PRR locomotive that was in service, and the dates of service. And, if you do a modest shelf switching layout, then you probably don't have to dive into DCC. DC will work fine at the beginning, and for your apparant purposes, will be much cheaper.
If you are going to freelance PRR, then you might want to consider the transition era, as steam locomotives were phased out of service and diesel locomotives were phased into service. My guess is that somewhere on the internet someone has listed every single PRR locomotive that was in service, and the dates of service.
And, if you do a modest shelf switching layout, then you probably don't have to dive into DCC. DC will work fine at the beginning, and for your apparant purposes, will be much cheaper.
What are the differences between DC & DCC?
Pennsylvania RR in HO sounds like a good choice for you because there's lots of product available. Also, the railroad itself disappeared into the Penn Central in 1967, so most PRR models should be reasonably close to your 50's timeframe. A couple of things that others haven't already mentioned:
1) you might want to check around to see if there's a modular club active in your area. The idea here is that everyone builds modules to a particular standard so they can be connected end-to-end at meets or shows. I think a typical size is roughly 2'x6', so you could build something that is both a switching layout when you're at home and also part of something bigger when the club gets together.
2) If you decide to use foam instead of plywood, I would recommend gluing it down with carpenter's glue, or even plain old white glue. This gives you some time to fiddle with the alignment while it's wet. Foam won't hold track spikes for long, but will do so long enough for you to spike the track down while the glue dries - then you remove and reuse the spikes. (Also put weights on the track while it dries) I have track that was glued down this way more than 15 years ago, and it's still rock solid. But it's also easy to remove - just slide a paint scraper under the track and it will pop right up.
Good luck and have fun!
DSchmitt This site lists the beginning-ending build dates of diesel locomotives http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRdieselchrono.html
This site lists the beginning-ending build dates of diesel locomotives
http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRdieselchrono.html
awsome! Thank you!
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
So maybe I will just build a "cusom layout" instead of trying to model something specific. I live in Pennsylvania so it feels right to use PRR Locomotives and cars. Its alot to take in, as of right now I still dont know where to start. Haha
dstarr During the Great Depression (1929 to 1941) everyone was too broke to buy new equipment. During WWII (1941-1945) the War Production Board told the railroads to suck it up and haul the freight with steamers. The then new high tech diesel engines were needed to power submarines and LST's and army and air force bases overseas. When the war ended, all the railroads started to buy the new fangled diesel locomotives. So the transition era starts in 1945 and runs until the last steamer is scrapped. The B&M ran ads bragging that they were 100% dieselized in 1957. I dare say steamers lasted a bit longer on other roads, but they were pretty much gone everywhere by 1960. Structures mostly last forever, so pretty much anything you have will look just fine in a transition era (1950's) layout. All of the "modern" building styles had been created and were being contructed in the 1950's. All the diesels hood units, EMD F units, Alco FA and PA, Baldwin, were in service. The early road switchers (EMD GP7 and GP9, Alco RS-1,2,and 3) were in service. Any steamer you have is good to go. Freight cars in the 1950's were mostly 40 foot long, and painted boxcar red. The rainbow colored boxcars were just coming into service. Gondolas, flatcars, boxcars, tank cars, and ice reefers were common. Double stack cars, triple decker auto racks, were in the future. Covered hopper cars were newly introduced in the 1950's. Was it me, I'd run anything I had that still runs. As time goes on, you can retire or replace any real anachronisms. Running them for the time being won't hurt anything. I'd go for Kadee couplers all around. Metal wheels are nice, they look good and they sound right, but they aren't cheap. At least half my fleet of rolling stock still rolls on plastic wheels. A little paint and DullCote can make a low end trainset car look just fine. Painting all the glossy plastic "show" parts helps a lot. I spray paint the undercarriages with dark grey auto primer, and those glossy black trucks with red auto primer. I brush paint the faces of wheels with grimy black. I don't paint couplers. An overall DullCote will make overly bright glossy paint jobs look much more realistic.
During the Great Depression (1929 to 1941) everyone was too broke to buy new equipment. During WWII (1941-1945) the War Production Board told the railroads to suck it up and haul the freight with steamers. The then new high tech diesel engines were needed to power submarines and LST's and army and air force bases overseas. When the war ended, all the railroads started to buy the new fangled diesel locomotives. So the transition era starts in 1945 and runs until the last steamer is scrapped. The B&M ran ads bragging that they were 100% dieselized in 1957. I dare say steamers lasted a bit longer on other roads, but they were pretty much gone everywhere by 1960.
Structures mostly last forever, so pretty much anything you have will look just fine in a transition era (1950's) layout. All of the "modern" building styles had been created and were being contructed in the 1950's. All the diesels hood units, EMD F units, Alco FA and PA, Baldwin, were in service. The early road switchers (EMD GP7 and GP9, Alco RS-1,2,and 3) were in service. Any steamer you have is good to go. Freight cars in the 1950's were mostly 40 foot long, and painted boxcar red. The rainbow colored boxcars were just coming into service. Gondolas, flatcars, boxcars, tank cars, and ice reefers were common. Double stack cars, triple decker auto racks, were in the future. Covered hopper cars were newly introduced in the 1950's.
Was it me, I'd run anything I had that still runs. As time goes on, you can retire or replace any real anachronisms. Running them for the time being won't hurt anything. I'd go for Kadee couplers all around. Metal wheels are nice, they look good and they sound right, but they aren't cheap. At least half my fleet of rolling stock still rolls on plastic wheels. A little paint and DullCote can make a low end trainset car look just fine. Painting all the glossy plastic "show" parts helps a lot. I spray paint the undercarriages with dark grey auto primer, and those glossy black trucks with red auto primer. I brush paint the faces of wheels with grimy black. I don't paint couplers. An overall DullCote will make overly bright glossy paint jobs look much more realistic.
Thanks for the very informative reply David!
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I am with slammin, a modest shelf switching layout is probably the way to go until you have more space. And, I know full well that this next comment of mine may rankle some folks, but you can always freelance a railroad. You don't have to get hung up on modelling a real railroad exactly. One more thing, generally the manufacturers of the various buildings, structures, factories, etc. will time date their products. Walthers is especially good in this regard.
atseibert74 What makes one scale better than another other than overall size? I just thought HOnwas most available. What’s your thoughts?
What makes one scale better than another other than overall size? I just thought HOnwas most available. What’s your thoughts?
Nothing,, except maybe the guy your talking to. I'm HO, N is just too small for my eyes and fingers. There not all that mutch available in S, good excuse to scratch build,O costs a few bucks more, and you need at least 2-3 times, or even more space.
There aint no better/best, its what will work for you,for whatever reasons you have.
As to buildings and equipment in a given time slot; I grew up in the 50s so have fair idea of what was there. Many buildings and some equipment we have today were there,perhaps new at the time. Search the web for whatever your looking for, most pictures will have some kind of date,go from there.
atseibert74I’m thinking about doing something modeling the transition era which I believe would be the 50’s. Correct? How do I determine the correct locomotives and structures etc.
https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/product/book/12663
You can run really long trains in not much space, compared to HO, if you go with N scale. HO is much more detailed, especially todays models.
I grew up with American Flyer and then HO. N scale just looks too small to me.
While you are buying books, I always recommend John Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation.
I’m having trouble determining what structures and locomotive/train cars would have been true to certain eras on a layout. I’m thinking about doing something modeling the transition era which I believe would be the 50’s. Correct? How do I determine the correct locomotives and structures etc.
Everyone has some great advice on here already. Research and plan is the most important for you right now.
Also, as much as I live HO, dont get hung up in it. Chances are, the stuff you do have is going to be outdated and might not be great or good enough for a quaility layout. Consider which scale you want, and what scale you will be able to fit more of into your space. For me, HO matter first, then room for track came second. You might be the same or opposite. Nevertheless, don't get "hung up" in a scale because you have a little already.
Lastly, whatever scale you go with, I would use flex track. Don't get the E-Z track type, as it really doesn't look great or allow you complete control for track planning.
Although you're chomping at the bit to get started on the layout of your childhood dreams, I recommend you start small and get a feel for how to work the materials (layout base, track, scenery materials, etc.). Your childhood trains may also need some maintenance to get them to work properly, but the "vintage" stuff is still a great way to get re-started.
I think your most important consideration at the start is whether you want to do a full loop or just a point-to-point. For an HO scale loop you need a surface at least 40" wide for popular 18" radius track, so a hollow-core door won't be enough since they tend to be 30" wide. 15" radius track is available, but even that will overhang the edge of a 30" door. Using 18" radius track, a sheet of plywood cut to 40"x48" will give you just enough space to create a single loop with some simple inner sidings. That size is quite manageable and can easily be tilted on it's side and stored. If you want to build something with crossovers (e.g. figure 8s), you'll need a full sheet. I recommend 1/2" thick plywood as the minimum since thinner sizes will easily warp.
In addition to visiting local clubs, look for any train shows in your area that have operating layouts. Trainshow.com lists the big ones - Greenberg, World's Greatest Hobby, etc. Railserve (https://www.railserve.com/events/train_shows.html) lists local shows too. The layouts displayed at the big shows are generally quite a bit larger than most of us have room for (OK, they tend to be huge) but you can see what interesting things can be done with a few trains and some readily available scenery modelling materials.
And, of course, the best source of advice is Model Railroader! (no I didn't get paid to say that - but I'd like to )
Craig
This car stops at ALL railroad crossings!
For Pennsylvania, of course the Pennsylvania Rail Road served nearly every part of PA. The Reading, the Lackawanna, the Maryland and Pennsylvania, and some others whose names escapes me were other important rail roads. Strasburg Rail Road, near Lancaster still operates steam. For that matter, there is a fine Pennsylvania Rail Road Museum right next to the Strasburg RR well worth visiting. Public libraries usually have illustrated books about the area's railroads. Real rail roads kept equipment in revenue service for 40 years so a train operating in say 1960 might well have a lot of 1920 cars in it.
AltoonaRailroaderYoutube has lots and lots of videos for beginners, and a lot of Model Railroading 101 type videos.
Very true, but also a lot of silly,stupid,and useless videos. Be prepaired to spend/waste alot of time. There are as many ways to do something as there are folks doing them. I don't believe there is any ''only way'' for any thing, more of what works for you.
As to what and where, research ! Like they say goolge is your friend.
On my RR, I have but two rules; nothing made after Dec.31 1959, and its must look believable. Any thing else is fair game.
It will be YOUR RR what ever you want
The "Transition Era" (post World War II through the late 1950's) was a period when late steam and early diesel locomotives shared the rails. If you're looking for info on railroads in Pennsylvania, you should check with the Pennsylvania Railroad Historical Society. Also, Wikipedia has a lot of information about various locomotives.
Thank you all for the great advice and ideas so far! How do I replicate a railroad line and what locomotives and cars they would have pulled? I’d like to replicate something local to me in Pennsylvania and is there a time frame where they used steam and diesel at the same time? how Do I find the name of the line/loop in order to look up pictures from back in time to see what it actually looked like? Hopefully I’m not being too confusing here. Thank you!
atseibert74 The biggest problem I have is SPACE. I dont really have a spot in my house to build a layout. I work with a guy who is big into model railroading and i could get some tips from him also. I would have to build a very small layout and maybe make it so i can build onto it later since my wife and I are planning to move to a bigger house in the future (next 2 or 3 years). Obviously i need to start with benchwork. Do i use a plywood base or do I put foam board ontop of the plywood? What should I lay under the track? Cork? Foam?
The biggest problem I have is SPACE. I dont really have a spot in my house to build a layout. I work with a guy who is big into model railroading and i could get some tips from him also. I would have to build a very small layout and maybe make it so i can build onto it later since my wife and I are planning to move to a bigger house in the future (next 2 or 3 years). Obviously i need to start with benchwork. Do i use a plywood base or do I put foam board ontop of the plywood? What should I lay under the track? Cork? Foam?
Welcome. Obviously a loop of track will take more space than a straight shelf. Since you have some HO stuff from years past, you'll probably want some sort of test layout just to run a train, even if its just back and forth slowly. And frankly, something small can be thrown away, so I wouldn't get too caught up in trying to make it useable into a future layout. A simple layout will will also allow you to test any new stuff that you might want to buy.
As far as other questions about type, techniques, etc., search the internet for Q & A. Oftentimes the questions you ask the google search gods will lead you right back to a thread on this forum.
- Douglas
Lots of good advice so far, a lot I agree with a little bit I don’T. But that’s me and you can learn from others but sometimes you will get conflicting ideas and opinions.
I am a Lance Mindheim follower along with many others and he publishes his own books available at Amazon and others. But his focus is on attainable/achieveable layouts. He writes for the big 2 paper magazines, MR and RMC and the ezine MRH. His business website is shelflayouts.com and he has a clickable blog there. He has a great FREE article about Preparing for the day you finally have a model railroad. IMO absolutely worth reading. He is an advertiser for all 3 mags so there is no favoritism towards any of them.
The late great John Armstrong is another great writer along with Pelle who mainly writes for MR. This is a hugely diverse and interesting hobby no matter the scale you will model in. Google can be a friend in your search efforts to start. But start something, it is a great hobby.
TomO