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Stained/Fusing Glass Display Cases For Model Trains Locked

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  • Member since
    April 2017
  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Sunday, November 12, 2017 11:43 AM

Crimping beads and HO scale hand rails make good power pole components. Headed to the Bay of Fundy now to prospect for materials for my display case.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Monday, November 13, 2017 7:54 AM

Full day of hobbying today. First activity is crushing and sifting Nova Scotia gypsum into four grades. Some of this will be used as ground cover and hopper loads in the display case.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Monday, November 13, 2017 8:47 AM

Particle size ranges for each sifter are provided by the manufacturer Aanraku Glass Studios Located in San Mateo, CA. The finest powder particles are less than 0.2 mm, then 0.2 - 1.2 mm, 1.2 - 2.7 mm, 2.7 - 5.2 mm. Pieces that don't go through the largest sifting mesh are greater than 5.2 mm.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Monday, November 13, 2017 1:20 PM

In order to load the hoppers with HO scale gypsum, I have visited the old abandonned gypsum hoppers in Hantsport, Nova Scotia to see first-hand typical prototype ore sizes. Ten centimeters is quite a reasonable dimension, so I will load the model hoppers with Grade 0.2-1.2 mm.

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Monday, November 13, 2017 1:26 PM

This is what the loads will look like.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 12:45 AM

Working on lighting. Miniature LED's will be mounted on the power poles to provide lighting to the hoppers. This is the quarry company's security lighting. The '3-phase' lines on the power poles will be small guage electrical wires and the 3-volt power supply, LED series resistors and auto dimmer circuit will be located behind the back sky panel. I do all my own electronics including custom circuit boards.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 12:54 AM

Here is my small breadboard test circuit In the light. The LED is still lit.  The entire dimmer electronics will fit on a small circuit board the size of this breadboard.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 1:14 AM

Three-phase insulators mounted on the power pole with neutral on the side. Lighting support will also be on the side above the neutral line.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 1:46 PM

Zinc-plated steel safety pin is ideal for a lamp fixture. A few modifications to the pin, including electrical insulation, and concealing the wires will work.

 

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 1:48 PM

Experimental version.

 

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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Thursday, November 16, 2017 11:44 AM

LED lamp looks nice when shrink wrap covers both leads and the safety pin. I haven't heated the shrink wrap yet. I will add an electrical junction box to the pole  to facilitate connecting the LED wires to the '3-phase' pole wiring.

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Thursday, November 16, 2017 12:00 PM

Better close-up.

 

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Thursday, November 16, 2017 1:34 PM

Every update I read on this project makes me want to take a stained glass class at the adult education center!

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Thursday, November 16, 2017 1:55 PM

SeeYou190

Every update I read on this project makes me want to take a stained glass class at the adult education center!

.

-Kevin

.

 

LOL I primarily took stained glass classes with my wife so I could incorporate glass technologies of all kinds into my model railroading kitbag. In the process I found that a lot of stained glass tools and materials are also useful in model railroading like the crusher (frit maker), calibrated sifters, E6000 glue, Diamond Tech grinder, SG assembly tray, and aluminum L-brackets.  This display case is what I decided to start with.

  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Friday, November 17, 2017 4:23 PM

In my electronics lab tonight developing miniature electrical connectors using spring-loaded contact probes and copper decals. I will need two of them to install into a tiny box for mounting on the power pole. The probes permit solderless connections that can be easily connected or disconnected by hand (i.e., no tools or de-soldering needed).

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Friday, November 17, 2017 6:25 PM

Once again, safety pin technology will be handy. This time to support the junction box on the pole.

 

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Saturday, November 18, 2017 6:31 AM

Junction box platform completed. Includes part of a safety pin, copper decal wrapped around the safety pin, hookup wire loop for strength, and solder. The platform was smoothed on a grinding wheel then painted.

 

  • Member since
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Saturday, November 18, 2017 2:04 PM

LEDs installed on both poles and shrunk tubing with hot blow feature on my butane torch. A little more work and the poles will be ready for the '3-phase' lines.

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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:20 AM

Picked up two of the three router bits I need for the base and 100 grit sand paper recommended for Douglas fir. Also got an offer from the hobby shop for a quantity of my wooden power poles. Think I'll opt for a store credit in return.

 

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 1:33 PM

OldSchoolScratchbuilder

 Also got an offer from the hobby shop for a quantity of my wooden power poles. Think I'll opt for a store credit in return. 

The first thing you ought to do is file for a patent so no one steals your technology, unless you feel that those poles have no intrinsic value. The second thing you ought to do is have the hobby shop place a purchase order for those poles and forget about store credit. If the hobby shop plans to sell them at retail, they must certainly have value and you want to protect your intellectual property rights.

 

Alton Junction

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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 2:39 PM

My little wooden power pole is my free contribution to the model railroader community. Build many and prosper ya'll.

Bis
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  • From: E Texas
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Posted by Bis on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 3:56 PM
I am enjoying your post and eagerly waiting the finished product. I really love the power poles. What size lumber did you use for the pole and cross bar or what ever it's called. Thanks
  • Member since
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 5:08 PM

Bis
What size lumber did you use for the pole and cross bar
 

 
Pole is 1/8" dia dowel about 3.5" long. Crossarm any softwood about 1 3/8" long and cross-section less than 1/8" on either side. A stiff handrail wire (even a staple) can be pushed into the wood and dowel without drilling small holes. 
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 6:34 PM

Used my router to make some soft fluffy softwood sawdust from a piece of kindling. Some of this sawdust will be used as fall ground cover.

 

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Posted by SeeYou190 on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 6:42 PM

OldSchoolScratchbuilder
Build many and prosper ya'll.

.

I don't think I could even build one.

.

That pole is really good. I have never had power poles on any of my layouts. To me they look silly without wires, and wires get in the way, so I do without.

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

Bis
  • Member since
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  • From: E Texas
  • 211 posts
Posted by Bis on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 6:43 PM
Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work
  • Member since
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  • From: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 7:21 PM

Everything I need for three more power poles. I use a large needle nose for two reasons: I have a hard time using smaller ones because of advanced arthritis in my fingers, and the extra weight makes it easy to push stiff wire into the wood (at least for me). The masking tape also makes it easier for me to hold on to the doweling because of arthritis.

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Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 4:58 AM

SeeYou190
 

I don't think I could even build one..

That pole is really good. I have never had power poles on any of my layouts. To me they look silly without wires, and wires get in the way, so I do without. 

You're kidding?

A power pole is really nothing more than a horizontal piece attached to a vertical piece, plus some other minor attachments. But, why even build one when there are so many varieties of HO scale power poles available from several manufacturers? In fact, Rapido has manufactured one with power lines attached.

What the OP is building is fine because it is part of a diorama for all practical purposes. He has a somewhat unique interest in designing a working power pole setup that most of us would probably not spend the time necessary to design and build for our own layouts.

But if you really wanted to build your own power poles for your layout instead of purchasing commercially available power poles, that would seem to be among the more simple forms of scratch building.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by OldSchoolScratchbuilder on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 5:50 AM

There is no fun in buying a bag of plastic power poles. Three commercial power poles with lights at my hobby shop for $35+tax CDN. Mine cost me less than $2 each! My power poles will carry real electricity and that is a project filled with creativity.

  • Member since
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  • 3,139 posts
Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 9:18 AM

OldSchoolScratchbuilder
 My power poles will carry real electricity and that is a project filled with creativity.


I reread the most recent posts, and I can't seem to find the method of supply to the light on the poles.

Commonly one of the following methods are used:
1) Hollow pole (plastic or brass tube), run the 2 wires from the light thru to under the layout to a power bus.
2) Metal tube, run 1 wire (say DC positive, this is a diode) from the light thru the pole, solder a lead from the other wire ('ground' in effect) to the pole, and the pole serves as the other lead to connect to the power bus (either direct, or by a socket arrangment)
3) Super thin wires, coated with some sort of insulating varnish or equivalent, run down the side of the pole and camouflaged (either run in a grove and painted over, or painted to resemble a conduit).
4) Run the power wires from pole to pole, thus the wire function as 'real' electrical power distributing cables.
5) Other (there is ALWAYS an other in Model Railroading - Prior Art is everywhere!)

I can't seem to figure what configuration OldSchool is going for, but apparently it involves sockets at the base of the poles...

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