Steven Otte OK, we all know model railroading can be an expensive hobby. There are probably several hundred threads on this topic buried in the archives of this very Forum proving it. So instead of complaining, let's try to turn our focus to the useful parts of those threads. What are your ideas and suggestions for enjoying model railroading inexpensively? One of my favorites is scratchbuilding. Rather than purchasing a kit everyone else already has on their layouts, I'd rather start with a few inexpensive packs of Evergreen and Plastruct styrene and some Tichy or Campbell detail castings. Usually I'm just trying to make an interesting looking structure, though I have duplicated prototype structures before. Since coming to MR I've been building a lot more in wood, as well. Scratchbuilding is not much harder than building from a kit, but it's a lot cheaper. And the result is something I can be proud of as the product of my own imagination and labor. Now, let's hear your constructive tips for keeping the cost of the hobby down.
OK, we all know model railroading can be an expensive hobby. There are probably several hundred threads on this topic buried in the archives of this very Forum proving it. So instead of complaining, let's try to turn our focus to the useful parts of those threads.
What are your ideas and suggestions for enjoying model railroading inexpensively?
One of my favorites is scratchbuilding. Rather than purchasing a kit everyone else already has on their layouts, I'd rather start with a few inexpensive packs of Evergreen and Plastruct styrene and some Tichy or Campbell detail castings. Usually I'm just trying to make an interesting looking structure, though I have duplicated prototype structures before. Since coming to MR I've been building a lot more in wood, as well. Scratchbuilding is not much harder than building from a kit, but it's a lot cheaper. And the result is something I can be proud of as the product of my own imagination and labor.
Now, let's hear your constructive tips for keeping the cost of the hobby down.
Those of us who like to scratch build, kit build and kit-bash our freight and passenger equipment need the magazines help in promoting this activity.
In fact, one of the most important articles ever appearing in Model Railroader for me, was one on kit-bashing a Northern Pacific W-3 Mikado from a regular old, standard Riverossi Mikado. This article and the procedure the writer used to walk me through the process of bashing this locomotive, opened my eyes to what we are capable of doing in this hobby! I now feel these types of articles are too few and too far between!
Also, how about having one of the people who are wonders at working in brass do another article on building a brass steamer like the one done on an NYC ten wheeler done a decade; or, so ago.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
For me saving bucks comes easy since I buy only the number of freight cars I need for the three eras I model and since a lot of those cars overlap eras I need to purchase few new RTR cars.
I only build small switching layouts that costs less then $300.00 to build including the needed Peco switches and Micro Engineering track.
I buy new cars and locomotives at the best street prices I can find and I hit the use market and look for use cars and locomotives at train shows.
If I don't need it I don't buy it..I only have the needed tools to build a kit,lay track and maintain my cars and locomotives.I found for me the other modeling tools is not needed since I would never use them.I only own 14 railroad books and Lance Mindheims 4 books on modeling and building industrial switching layouts.I buy my metal wheels and KD 148 couplers by bulk packages.
During open houses at the club and when I'm asked about the cost of the hobby I have a standard answer that all can understand..
The cost of the hobby depends on how much you wish to spend.You could buy 2-3 engines,some cars and join one of the local clubs or you can build a simple 4x8' home layout or if you wish you can build a layout that fills your basement.
About DCC.
While DCC and DCC/Sound is not truly needed to enjoy the hobby its one of those niceties of the hobby.
If solo operation is your desire then think small..A MRC Tech 6 with hand held throttle or a NEC Power Cab is all the DCC you need on most small to medium size home layouts.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Great Tips....
I second the idea of sticking to the 3 foot rule. Personally, I am very satisfied with weathering a much cheaper car that has molding details, so that the highlights of the weathering bring out ladders, grabs, etc.. Also, these cars are moving, so it is nearly impossible to see all the detail that the high end cars offer.
I too am always on the lookout for little items that can represent something else. Recently I made a very real looking turbine out of two toothpaste caps glued together. I believe developing an eye for these things adds to the satisfaction of the hobby.
Thanks for the post
See my models by clicking on the link below
Blue Tombstone Gallery
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
This summer I screened, sifted, and washed gravel in my own driveway and came up with lots of nice scale gravel. A trip to the beach renedered more, and some variety in color.
Ever check out a craft store? Look through the dry floral supplies for tree making supplies. (Caspia is a dried plant that is the basis of very realistic pine tree branches)
Also their jewelry making stuff can render some interesting items, especially chain.
As mentioned already, real dirt looks like real dirt. Be aware that there are many colors of earth, yellows, reds light to dark brown. Collect it up and have a supply.
Ebay, ah... Patience pays off. I've been looking to expand my tanker fleet. Finally found a seller with decent starting prices. But what made it pay off was that he combines shipping. Once I bagged the first item, full shipping cost, the rest were 50 cents per. 6 cars for about 24 bucks, including shipping. 3 BB athearns, 2 Tycos, and a Bachmann. They'll get upgraded, some painted, but still way cheaper than RTR these days.
If you don't have a fine cutting tablesaw, do you have a friend who does? Cut your own scale lumber for those scratchbuilding projects. OK maybe not HO 2x4s, but the larger stuff, it still saves money.
Someone mentioned hand laid turnouts? Two big plusses here. Initial cost, and...Once you get the hang of that, you can custom lay these in curves, or anywhere you want, and in the # ratios you want. That expands the usable real estate on your layout, cuz it increases the accessability to more areas dramatically. You're no longer limited by having to fit a pre fab switch only where it will fit. Oh, and you are not subject to their availability. That's 3. Inexpensive slide switches built into the throws supplies power to the frogs, and tension to the rail point position.
Caveat: This is going to require a few quality tools, but nothing exotic. Nippers, files, NMRA gauge, soldering tools, stuff you ought to have anyway.
Cheap is a relative term. Some stuff just costs what it's going to. This small precision machinery we're using can't be made dollar store cheap, but as many have already shown, nice layouts don't have to be money spending contests. Dan
Dusty:
I understand your position re scratch building. It is not a skill that comes easily to everyone. However, I might challenge you to an experiment to see if you are really as bad at it as you imply.
Do you have a structure which you would like to have on your railroad that is not available as either a kit or RTR? If so, perhaps your could provide us with a detailed description and photographs if you have them (photographs would be ideal). Those of us who are experienced at scratch building would likely be able to provide you with a wealth of ideas on how to go about constructing your project. Of course it would be advisable to start with something fairly simple, but that doesn't necessarily have to be the case.
This could turn into a very interesting and educational thread for those who would like to scratch build but haven't yet taken the plunge.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Some railroads of the past operated while in receivership for decades. I imagine that like any business financial management is vitaly important for railroads as well.
It has been suggested here the one way to introduce some cost savings is to scratch build. But how realistic is that for many of us who are crap at it? I can & often kitbash but scratch
building? Not really; that is a big step for me into the vast murky void of the unknown.
I'm pretty sure that folks who scratch build do so for reasons of accomplishment & the satisfaction of creating something that is in some way unique - not mass produced in other words. This preference is not a reaction to the economy delivering less in wages/salary, but something scratch builders like to do & enjoy the process of creativity & have the talent that other modelers - like me, don't possess.
Dusty
Steven. Thanks for starting this thread. it might be a good idea to have a regular column in MR where readers can submit tips for keeping costs down.
We are modeling railroads which are companies. The real railroads do in fact operate with budgets. The Milwaukee Road slogan was "America's Resourceful Railroad". Model railroaders may wish to adopt that slogan.
Budgeting was already mentioned in this thread, but it is worth repeating. It helps to stay focussed on modeling a specific railroad in a specific location, and in a specific era. Avoiding purchases of items which do not fit in the layout will help adhering to the budget.
After the budget has been determined, we can find ways to get the most for our money. There are many good examples of that including scratch building.
Another resource is is our time of course. We must find ways to work efficiently if we are to accomplish our goals. Many of us will find kit-bashing takes less time than scratch building.
Of course, bargain hunting is a good habit to control how much we spend. We can save money purchasing used model railroad items. For example, used track is very cheap.
Shopping at train shows and on line does save money. (Unfortunately, hobby shop s may not be able to compete.)
Many model railroaders acquire trains in need of repair very cheaply, and then repair them. Some of the old train set rolling stock such as was made by Tyco can be upgraded to make decent models.
As has been mentioned, items not intended for model railroads can be adapted for use on our layouts. For instance, I have purchased strings of diode Christmas lights for 75% off retail in the post Christmas season. The diodes are 3 volts.
Thanks to those who posted here.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
snjroy Here are some ideas: 1. Avoid buying RTR. If so, get more milleage by weathering it, etc. 2. Make up some purchasing rules (e.g., treat yourself at birthday, Xmas, etc.) 3. Accept the fact that doing things yourself is a learning process - be patient and practice on low cost models. 4. Building scenery is generally cheaper than working on locos, etc 5. Take your time. Redo things you are not happy with. 6. Resist buying expensive tools that are unnecessary 7. Don't buy a new kit before finishing one. 8. Use cheaper paints for small things 9. Learn how to use ebay wisely 10. Buy less but quality locos. Sticking to a specific RR and era usually limits costs... Simon
Here are some ideas: 1. Avoid buying RTR. If so, get more milleage by weathering it, etc. 2. Make up some purchasing rules (e.g., treat yourself at birthday, Xmas, etc.) 3. Accept the fact that doing things yourself is a learning process - be patient and practice on low cost models. 4. Building scenery is generally cheaper than working on locos, etc 5. Take your time. Redo things you are not happy with. 6. Resist buying expensive tools that are unnecessary 7. Don't buy a new kit before finishing one. 8. Use cheaper paints for small things 9. Learn how to use ebay wisely 10. Buy less but quality locos. Sticking to a specific RR and era usually limits costs... Simon
Some more thoughts on the cost of involvement in our hobby.
I beleive that, "modeling on the cheap" is a flawed proposition if taken literally.
I do however think that we can, do & should spend only what we can afford to buy or in the worst possible situation - finance.
With modelrailroading appealing to folks in all demograhics there are many who can afford to be big spenders. Just think of some of those celebrities who we share our hobby with. But I think the vast proportion of us find funding our hobby a struggle.
But can we adjust to spending less or modeling on less money? Many have no choice, changing circumstances have seen to that. Ofher modelers do have a choice of shifting spending priorities to keep going as in the past.
Lets not forget that we are a society of consumers - that is our role in society with religious beliefs not with standing. While we understand the nessesity for restraint in a time of rising prices, we are still conditioned to want to spend with vigor. With no chance of any price reductions even after factoring in - prices relative to the past when some commentators would have us beleive that: "model railroading has never been cheaper" we are destined to accept this harsh reality of modern day consumer economics.
Since I live in a world where resouces and responsibilites are almost always in a delicate balance (or at least a exist in a steady tug of war), I have to find reasonable ways to enjoy the hobby of model railroading. Just for kicks, let me share, in no particular order a number of things that seem to help.
1) Do not be in a hurry, no matter how much your spouse or trusted advisors complain about "that mess in the...".If you feel the need to do a railroad very quickly-just hire a pro.
2) Feel free to repurpose almost anything. My dear bride recently muttered something about the spindle in the bathroom not having a functioning spring when she changed rolls. No local store had a replacement, but for $3.00 I could buy a new one that was 1/2" too short for the existing fixture. Separating the two halves of the new spindle gave me both a functioning spindle spring (complete with happy wife) and two external silos for a long established medium sized plastics plant on the layout.
3)Save and dry mosses and lchens from your next walk in the woods (an old food dehyrator works nicely to chase out the wild life). If your mate comes along you get both romance and free brush for your tairods woods.
4)Save twigs from your next Christmas tree investment- they can become layout sized trees and deadfall with very little effort. I split some of those twigs and stacked them by Woodrow Knott's (Woody to his friends) Custom Lumber and Saw Mill with a pile of sawdust.
5) Dark beach sand works nicely for gravel roads and parking lots.
6) Most import: this is a hobby-not rocket science, so it is more important to relax and enjoy what you have, and refrain from stressing out over what you do not have.
Cheers!
Don H.
Scratch building structures is a blast! I get the building that I want in a size that fits my space. If you look at the cost for any specific scratch built structure it is definately cheaper than similar kits. The caveat is that you have to avoid buying a whole bunch of scratch building supplies on spec. Otherwise you could spend a lot of money on stuff that sits in a drawer.
Kit bashing can also be economical. I wanted a small rural grocery store that would sit right at the backdrop. In fact I had to cut the building in half to get the footprint I wanted. That left me with the back half of the building which, with a little bashing, just happened to look like the front half of a small house. It fits perfectly beside the store.
I am also working on a fleet of cabooses. I started with BB el cheapos from eBay for which I had paid only a few bucks each. I am in the process of replacing all the molded on grabs with wire, adding a few grabs where Athearn had neglected to install them, installing power pickup for working marker lamps and interior lighting for the conductor's desk, and a scratch built keep alive circuit. I estimate that the cabooses will have cost me about $35.00 each when finished which is not exactly cheap, but it is half the price of the current Rapido offerings with similar features. Plus, they fit my era and road name perfectly.
I am also a strong believer in eBay as an economical source for specific items. By 'specific' I mean that I only buy what I need and I resist the urge to buy things that look good but are not on the purchase list. It took me a while before I realized how easy it was to blow a lot of money on things I didn't have a specific need for. By watching eBay patiently I have been able to aquire many things at very good prices, like warm white 3mm LEDs for $0.02 each. The trick is to not act like a kid in a candy shop with a ton of money in his/her pocket.
I have also limited the number of locomotives that I purchase. I will be running Canadian Pacific and the 15 or so diesels and five steamers that I have acquired will more than fill my needs. I have also learned to buy DC locomotives and add my own decoders and sound. The savings are reasonable but the main benefit is that I am getting a full featured decoder instead of something that has been economized to save a few bucks.
My ?
1) Have a budget and stick to it. Mine is $75 a month. If I need something more expensive than that, I have to wait several months. Track your budget on a spreadsheet or log book.
2) Take a shopping list when you go to the LHS or especially a train show. Don't purchase anything not on your list. Make a wish list if you see something you want that isn't on your list.
3) Consider alternate sources for materials: medical supply stores for plaster cloth, returned cans of paint at home improvement stores, damaged foam panels (sometimes free for the asking).
4) Show your family and friends how to shop at your favorite e-tailer and give them a copy of your wish lost. Or ask for gift certificates. The good folks at M.B. Klein probably expect a large order from me in the first weeks of the new year.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
NittanyLion Pay attention to the prototype. You might want to stockpile a dozen locomotives, but actual regionals can get by with four or six. They're trying to save a buck too, you know.
Pay attention to the prototype.
You might want to stockpile a dozen locomotives, but actual regionals can get by with four or six. They're trying to save a buck too, you know.
You don't even have to stick to a regional. Pick a small part of a big system. MEC's Rockland Branch around 1950, SP's Monterey Branch (up to 1971, also had passenger train), Santa Fe's San Jacinto Branch, Bangor & Aroostook's Searsport Branch (F3's, BL2's,GP7's into the early 80's). There's all kind of opportunity out there that doesn't require a huge loco roster or a collection of freight cars rivaling the UP.
Andre
Don't buy expensive RTR freight cars. Build a few Accurail freight car kits as beginner projects and work your way up to highly detailed kits and eventually maybe build some craftsman kits from wood or resin. Building model kits is fun! It will also save money over buying expensive RTR kits.
In the scratchbuilding zone, here's a tip. You can find largish sheets of plastic (~2' feet square) at most hardware and home stores. They are called "For Sale " signs, but also come with other such information printed on them. The ones printed single side are best, because that saves a lots of scraping away at the painted to get a surface that glues well, if double sided.
Another source if you need even more plastic is to find a local plastics dealer. They have it in 4x8 sheets. Cutting usually costs you something, but you can also roll up a sheet and tie it to get it into a small car so you can get it home to cut at your leisure.
Since you need big buildings cheap to use up that styrene, remember that black foamcore board can be used to build structure cores cheaper than about anything else. It's light, strong, and easy to cut.
For electrical connections, use what probably keeps your house wiring safely connected, the humble, very cheap wire nut. I started a discussion and poll on this topic in another forum and found close to two-thirds of those answering used or planned to use them to wire their layouts, yet you see almost nothing about their use in the hobby press.
http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/3032/wire-great-stuff-hidden-shame
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Pick a prototype and era. Plan accordingly - instead of a gaggle of "gotta have one of everything", stick to a few locos. Unless you're filling up a barn, you probably can;t run dozens of locos at once anyway, so buy a few, and buy rolling stock. In kits as much as possible. Generally half the price of RTR.
Learn how to swap digits in the car numbers, so you cna build a whole fleet from inexpensive kits, rather than have to resort to buying an expensive RTR version just to get a different number.
Learn patience. Yeah it might be cool to get it all TODAY, but this is a lifelong hobby. Aquire bit by bit. All those limited run locos and cars? Yeah, they might be sold out 2 days after release, but a few months later and they are ALL OVER eBay. Outside of some truly rare brass pieces, nothing is truly ever unobtainable.
And speaking of eBay, more patience. See a loco you really want? Fine, go for it - but control your impulse to bid more. It's not the first time nor the last time you will see one of them listed, and if you don;t win this one, you can always try the next one. Don't get caught in a bidding frenzy, and you can walk away with a $150 loco for $50 or less. Most of my fleet was built this way.
Think outside the box. Have a lot of things you need to paint flat black, like car weights? Don't spend $6+ for that tiny can of Testor's spray paint, spend $1.29 and get the BIG can of spray paint. It's plenty good for basic work like that. Doing lots of scenery? Don't get little squeeze bottles of Elmer's glue, you cna buy gallon jugs of it at the big box stores. Don't spend a fortune on 'scenic cement' - buy a gallon of Elmer's and some cheap 70% alcohol from the Dollar Store and mix up your own. Need some CA? Here's where it pays to NOT buy the biggest bottle, unless you have a huge project that will be continuously worked on. I've found a pack of a dozen tiny tubes at the big box stores, it costs slightly more but every one gets used up before it dries up, so I'm wasting a LOT less adhesive.
Save any interesting-looking household items. Containers, tubes, small boxes - you can probably make a myriad of items from otherwise junk. Buy something that comes protected with foam pieces? Perfect scenery forms, don't toss it with the box.
If I take stock of all my equipment and supplies, I have a not insifgnificant amount of money invested. However, I didn't spend it all over 2, or 5, or even 10 years. Dividing it out over time, my per year hobby expenses are rather modest. The 'fun' value? Priceless.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
My Great Grandma Lawson used to tell my dad, when he complained about not having some of the toys or clothes that his peers had at school:
"Use what you have, and you'll never want for anything."
I have only dabbled, with a small "d", in scratching out something from available materials, but in the few instances where I have done that, it has left me intensely pleased and happy with my effort. As some of you will recall, I scratched a bumper/ramp at the end of one of my turntable radials. It looked quite realistic, helped by my previous scratching of my second trestle.
While it isn't technically scratch building, I did gather, clean, and then spread local beach sand for my ballast. I have done that three times now. It never looks unnatural, if not entirely realistic, but that is due to my own mediocre skills in grooming the ballast and in weathering it all. It's the right size and shape, and it's free.
I'll only deal, in closing, with spending. Do it carefully. Do it sparingly. Most of us must buy what we need in the hobby, but if we could limit that to unique or simply too complex items, we'd be surprised at how little we need to enjoy our hobby.
Steve, thanks for your initiative.
-Crandell
I forgot to mention something since I don't have a train set layout I place 4 tracks on my dresser measuring 3'4". I place a few freight cars and a diesel or two making a consist pretending it's going through cities, desert, forest, and in between.
When my family goes out I'll be at home with the dog and than run into my room and take out my trains into living room and set up a small oval loop with little track that I have. My modern equipment is Amtrak, BNSF or Union Pacific depending on the mood but if I have enough equipment than I can run Conrail. All in DC power and I have no switch tracks to switch locomotives or cars.
Model Railroading is still fun for me no matter what happens with or without tracks. Imagination is a powerful tool to have when you have nothing.
"I pity that fool!" Mr. T
Amtrak America, 1971-Present.
I buy damaged goods on ebay. For example, a non-running Proto E8 was had for 30 bucks and all it needed was a motor lead resoldered. I'm pretty good at fixing other stuff too.
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
I run by my self so DC is for me but i buy only DCC ready locos because i might someday change over and i have so much to last my life time so buying has slowed down train shows is the best for me to buy found new flex code 100 for two dallors a stick and the LHS i go to lots of times puts things on the bargin shelf with a good discount and if you see something on the shelf that's been their a while he will reduced it also so MRing can be cheaper.
Russell
I have old freight cars and locomotives that came with train sets. Although the track, power pack is gone and diesels no longer work. I did buy some old freight cars way before converting to knuckle couplers. Now these freight cars help me play with my trains and pretending to be in late 1950s thru the early 1970s.
It has been keeping me busy for the last few weeks.
This is a good thread addressing the cost issues of the hobby.
Cost has 'always' been a problem for me...even after 43 years. I've had to be as resourceful as possible.
I frequented trains shows in the past. (no longer an option...none in this area)
I've stayed with DC and the use of old MRC packs or homebuilt power supplies.
Though I have bought some new ready to run beauties in the last few years, they were treats or gifts to myself. They can be counted on one hand.
In the past 3 months, buying from Ebay, I added to my Reading fleet, 16 locomotives total (Athearn BB, and old Atlas), and painted and decalled them all accurately for less than the retail price of a BLI Reading 4-8-4.
There are many other measures I've taken to enable me to stay in the hobby. But I don't want to tie up this thread.
Oh...one more thing. I take no shame in being a dumpster diver. LOL
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
Scratch building can be a money saver, but it is easy to run up the price with those lovely detail parts and beautiful sheets of shingle roofing and siding. I did a nice model of a local passenger station, but by the time I was finished I had a surprising amount of money sunk into it.
Train shows have real deals in used rolling stock and structures. With some paint and detail work, they can be made into first rate models. Or into parts cars, yielding doors, brake equiipment, ends, roofs, anything.
I made my own roadbed out of white pine. All it takes is a bandsaw.
Craft store acrylic paint is way cheaper than any paint from a hobby shop. Rattle cans can give a decent paint job, maybe not quite as nice as air brush, but decent.
Scrap house wire makes a good bus. Go for 14 gauge, it's easier to work with than 12 gauge. Telephone cable is good for most things and turns up surplus for real cheap.
Old computer power supplies come in a nice metal enclosure, with a detachable line cord and fuses. Good for homebrew power projects.
A walk around layout doesn't really need electric switch machines. A simple overcenter spring will hold the points against the stock rails, and you can throw the turnout with a finger.
DCC is overkill on a smallish one man layout.
Homemade trees from weeds are cheap and decent looking.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
1. Use natural materials for scenery. Commercial trees are very costly. But going out into a vacant lot and clipping some weeds (with permission) is free. Two issue ago there was a great article on making trees from goldenrod. I'm going to try it.
2. On a similar note, repurposing household objects for modeling can save you money. Gears from old CD drives make great model machinery.
3. Prioritize. Set realistic goals for layout completion and locomotive acquisition and decide which is most important to you.
4. Properly maintain your fleet. Your locomotives will last longer and run better.
Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.
www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com
1. I think being a disciplined purchaser, or rather, being a disciplined modeler, can save a tremendous amount of hobby money by eliminating the impulse purchases of things that are unrelated to your goals of era, location, prototype, and for that matter, gauge and scale. Impulse purchases can be fun to be sure but for the modeler on a budget, they can be devastating to that budget. This idea may not work for everyone, but when I go to a big train show I bring cash and limit my purchases to cash -- a sort of built-in discipline.
2. Learning to repair what is broken or not right is a skill that over time can save money, including repairing things that are purchased cheaply because they are broken or incomplete. Besides the sense of triumph when the repair is a success is fun in its own right.
3. Also saving the pieces from "disasters" can create a supply of parts and resources for future repairs or kitbashing (or trading with others). When I was a young modeler I'd throw away my modeling disasters because I hated being reminded of my failures. Then I'd later (often much later) regret not saving the parts and fragments. Now I hardly throw anything away which might in turn be a problem of a different sort I suppose.
4. Buying used stuff applies not just to the trains, but to books and tools. There are bargains to be had.
5. I second Steve Otte's remark about scratchbuilding. But I found it unfortunate when Walthers discontinued their "Modulars" series of parts, evidently due to lack of interest or perhaps due to not being able to convey how the "system" was meant to work.
6. Track and wiring and control are expensive. Scenery, by contrast, is actually rather cheap. Careful choice of track plan can lead to a layout which is not only more realistic looking but is cheaper, by having a high ratio of scenery to track. Most track plans I see posted here by beginners try to pack too much track into a given space.
7. Don't be afraid to be a seller at a swap meet.
Dave Nelson
snjroyHere are some ideas: ... 10. ... Sticking to a specific RR and era usually limits costs... Simon
And to ONE scale.
Also:
Go to smaller train shows run by a club - better prices on used stuff.
Scratchbuild your turnouts, that's where the real savings are in track.
Enjoy
Paul
Because our HO scale club layout is in the high Sonoran desert, a lot of our scenery is desert. Nothing is cheaper for scenery than actual desert dirt. After scooping up a coffee can full of dirt from around the clubhouse and running it through a flour sifter to get rid of the larger pieces, we mix it with casting plaster, water, glue, cinnamon brown acrylic paint, and a little dishwashing detergent, then spread it on with a small paint brush. Ground foam and clump foliage is added while everything is still wet, and a little 50/50 white glue mix is dribbled on.
Results can be seen at www.cwmrrc.com