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just in case any of y'all need another project to do, i'll show you how i am building my 4 Southern Pacific SD40T-2's. i'll post a parts list at the end but i'll also tell you what i am using as we go. well, lets get this thing started! the very first thing you should do is find a picture, or better yet, several pictures of the locomotive you want to model. there are always a few detail differences between locomotives. http://espee.railfan.net is a great place for pictures of SP locomotives. an internet search will usually turn up several pictures of the same locomotive from other sources. Harry Wong put together an excellent detail guide to SP SD40T-2's. i think it can be found on the espee modelers site, but i dont know the exact web address for it. first off, you need an undecorated Athearn SD40T-2. i found some painted ones really cheap so i stripped them using Castrol Super Clean. now, this is probibly the hardest part. i plan on using Cannon & CO noses, cabs and cab sub bases, so i had to cut off the entire Athearn nose and sub base. on the first time, i tried cutting it off with an exacto knife. it is very time consuming, but it came out somewhat ok. for the other 3, i used a hacksaw. it works much faster, but you cant control it as well. you have to be careful that you dont cut off too much. here are a couple of shots of the shell with the nose and sub base cut off: [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%201.JPG[/img] [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%202.JPG[/img] the Cannon parts i used are SB-1202: EMD cab sub base kit, SB-1203: SP split equipment doors, TC-1501: EMD thinwall dash 2 cab kit, and LN-1106: EMD 123" low short hood kit. i am going to be making one with the 88" nose, 1 with the 116" nose, and 2 with the 123" nose. all sizes are available from Cannon. one thing about Cannon & CO parts, the instructons are not the best in the world. i had to tear apart one sub base because i had glued it together wrong. after you figure out the first one, the rest go together very easily. here is a shot of the partially assembled cab and sub base. the cab kit does come with wondows. [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20cab%201.JPG[/img] [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20cab%202.JPG[/img] the nose: the hole cut in the nose is for the SP light package. i am going to be using either number H-119 or H-120 from Sunrise Enterprises. 119 is the light set with the gyralite removed and the gap still there. 120 has the gyralite removed and a rounded top covering the gap. if you want to model an older unit with the full light packages, Sunrise makes set H-134 that comes with the full light sets for the cab, nose, and rear. [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20nose.JPG[/img] test fitting the parts on the Athearn shell: [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20test%20fit.JPG[/img] and the last installment tonight will be cutting out the Athearn rear grills so i can add see through grills. you have to take your time here so you dont cut too much, or cut the wrong thing, but it comes out pretty easily. i plan on using brass grills from S&S hobby products, item number 306 (etched brass athearn SD40T-2 diesel grills). then i cut off the molded on grab irons and the light on the rear. if you are doing a 116" nose loco, leave the stock light on. none of them got the SP light package on the rear, only on the nose. here is a shot of the holes cut in the body: [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20grills.JPG[/img] here is the rear: [img]http://akpierce.20m.com/tunnel%20project%20rear.JPG[/img] in the next installment, i'll finish up the details on the cab and nose, and attach them to the body. then start adding lights, grab irons and other small details that i can add before painting.
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