IHC GG1 opinions

[cats think well of me]

Hi all, 

How good a scale model is the IHC GG1 really? I imagine it's not as well done/refined as the BLI or Trix models, but it goes for significantly, significantly less then either model. I care not about sound or super refined mechanisms, as it'll likely be a display model.

Alvie

[Darth Santa Fe]

Although the detail quality is far cheaper than a BLI or Trix model, the IHC GG-1 is pretty accurate. Most of the detail is molded on and generic, but it still looks pretty good. If you ever do decide to run it, it's a smooth and strong runner.

[selector]

A while back, maybe two years now, I was on the hunt for a GG1 and it looked to be MTH or IHC.  I can recall reading no negative opinions about the IHC model...in fact it was surprisingly well regarded.

It is likely, if you snag one, to be a little older now, and if you would like to keep it in good condition, it would be smart to remove the shell carefully and have a look at the drive mechanism for proper lube quality.  I don't mean that the assemblers didn't use or apply lube properly, but that it may be a bit waxy or dried up by now.  It would be a shame to run if for an hour and then smell it getting hot.

Crandell

 

[farrellaa]

I still have one of the old Rivarossi GG1 models in HO. It is a very smooth running engine but it has the large flanges that make it unusable on my Code 83 layout. I had 5 or 6 of them and also an IHC dual motor one that was also very smooth running. The detail on them is still pretty good but not what I expect the BLI or MTH would be (haven't seen either of them except in mags). For display only, go for it, they look great. That is where my last one is. Not a good photo and the wheels are off the track (this was just an inventory photo I took a few months ago).

   -Bob

[vtrr1]

How do you remove the shell on the IHC unit, and what must I be aware of?  I have the IHC double motor version..... Dated 2001, it has never been run!

[ndbprr]

I have 26 G's ranging from the original Rivarossi through the last IHC. All smooth runners. I don't really find much difference in any of the shells and nobody looking at them can tell if they are AHM, Pemco, IHC or anybody else. The G is a welded carbody engine virtually devoid of any detail with the exception of the air vents. They all are missing the steps below the carbody to allow truck clearance on curves. Some have them added to the trucks but they are best modeled using Alco FA corner steps from the rear of an A unit or any of the B units. There is a brass version detail part available that has a tab for mounting. Most ave the shell on the nose at the base tapered too high to allow vertical movement on grades. This can be filled with styrene sheet if desired. Engines from 4801 through 4857 were made without the drop coupler but all the models include it on the pilot. Removing the bulge under the coupler is easy and filling with styrene will back date the engine correctly. 4800 was a unique riveted engine and is only avaiable in brass. So any one numbered 4800 is really wrong. Any number from 4858 through 4938 is ok for any of the engines. Removing a shell is identical on all engines listed. Put your thumbs on top of the engine between the pantograph and cab and your fingers under the edge of the body shell on either side. Gently spread the body with your fingers to release the tabs holding it on the chassis. Repeat on the other end and it is off. Just press on it to snap it back on.