Krylon Paint for plastic

[Anonymous]

I've recently noticed ads for a Krylon paint
called "Krylon Fusion for plastic". Has anyone tried
this and does it work ok. I called Krylon and got
some double talk about 'superbonding' to the plastic.
I'm trying to avoid another disaster I recently had
with a testors product that implied it was ok for
plastic - NOT SO.

I also picked up another Krylon product called
"Krylon Short Cut'" . The can says its "enamel".
A call to Krylon says its acrylic enamel. They also
said its not the same formulation as the like labeled product in
a bottle for brushing on.

A long time ago I used Pactra namel but its long gone now.

thanks

[orsonroy]

I don't think I'd trust the new Fusion paints. Since they're designed for PVC-type "plastics" (see what products are highlited in their advertising? PVC kiddie toys and chairs) they might not work on styrene, and I'd suspect that they go on pretty thick.

Most normal Krylon rattlecan paints are plastic safe, at least in my experience. I use them all the time on items from many different manufacturers, and I haven't had anything melt yet! I use Krylon for everything but rolling stock and diesels (well, I use their flat and satin blacks for hoppers and gons!)

[Big_Boy_4005]

I've actually used the good old fashioned Krylon to paint undec Athearn cars, with no trouble. The gloss is no problem, and it works great for applying decals. When done just dull and voila. NEVER USE RUSTOLEUM !!! and never mix it with Krylon. It has something in it that is designed for use with metal, and it will make a mess of your project.

[Noah Hofrichter]

Big Boy, I agree that the gloss is great for underneath, but NEVER use krylon to coat decals. It will effectivly melt the decal and ruin it, I know from experience

Noah

[orsonroy]

Noah keeps saying this, but I use Krylon clear coats with beautiful results over decals and dry transfers from several manufacturers. I prefer Krylon over Dullcoat and glosscoat, both for it's finish and for it's price.

Confused as to which one of us is right? Experiment on a scrap shell and decals, and judge for yourself.

[Anonymous]

I use Krylon 'ruddy brown primer' and their gray primer for G scale plastic rolling stock - both redecorated Delton, Bachamnn, MDC and LGB plastics, as well as scratch built plastic, wood, and metal rolling stock. The ruddy brown primer closely matches many narrow gauges' boxcar red, especially after it had been on a freight car for awhile. The gray is great for MOW equipment. I'll spray Testors' clear gloss over it before decaling, then weather it and then use Dullcoat. If I'm using dry transfers or decopaging logos -like labels off of tincans and bottles, I'll apply directly onto the primered surface, then weather and dust w/ Dullcoat to seal in the lettering, and pastels and washes used for weathering.

Krylon's Fusion paint line is being used by scale auto modelers with some success according to topics posted on Kalmbach's Scale Auto Forum. They're painting styrene plastic and resin with it. Suggest you surf on over to that Forum and look under the section dealing w/ painting techniques. Lot's of good info isolated into one section, and therefore easy to access, without hunting all over a Forum site.

[Noah Hofrichter]

Ray, I've only tried this with a small regional Decal Manufacture called Scale Rail Graphics. Other Decal companies might have a better paper or something,bt I just still give my warning.

Noah

[orsonroy]

No problem Noah. I try to include all viewpoints when I answer a question like this, including what other people do and don't like. I'm just keeping us all honest!

[Anonymous]

I've just tried a new product from Rust-Oleum. It is a primer for plastic. After using this primer you can use any products from Rust-Oluem (or Krylon for that matter) for the final coat. I just finished an old Santa Fe F7A engine and used Krylon metal paint and had wonderful results. I found the it in the spray paint section of Orchard Hardware. I was a little afraid of putting so much paint figuring I would lose some of the detailing...not so.

[Anonymous]

I've used many types of spray-bomb paints; my preference, from generic to topbrand products, is solvent-based (usually toulene) paints. Krylon Fusion is no doubt solvent-based (check label). I believe the mode of application may be causing many of the problems cited in this forum. Patience is key; try not to rush your projects. Rushing can cause one to unintentionally apply too heavy a coat or too many coats. Distance is key; treat the spray-bomb similar to an airbrush. Rule-of-thumb; 10-12" from object. Assess the weight of the coat on a scrap piece before application on a model. 3-Step coat is key; 1st a spackle coat, speckling the entire surface,let dry at least 20-30 minutes
(more is better in the 3-step coat applications), even on primed surfaces the spackle coat provides a color tooth for the next steps and can help prevent paint runs. 2nd a fill coat at the same distance and weight as the spackle coat; this coat may or may not cover the entire surface, either is OK, let dry at least 20-30 minutes (remember more is better). 3rd is the topcoat at the same distance and weight as the spackle coat; multiple passes can be done with care and the recommendation to increase the distance from the model. This step should produce a very uniform surface. Let dry(cure) for at least 5-7 days before applying masks, decals or any type of clear topcoat. Clear topcoats should be applied with the 3-Steps as well. A final note, when airbrushing or spray-bombing always start spraying off the model and end off the model with a steady, even stroke. Hope this helps.

[chevypanel52]

I have used Krylon paints professionally for years on plastics of ALL types, it is the ONLY rattle can spray paint that I use. The "Fusion" type are even better, though limited in colour selection. "Fusion" requires no primer at all on any plastic surface. Regular Krylon covers a little better when used with a primer, though with dark colours you can skip the primer stage. In professional model-building, a RELIABLE and SURE-FIRE paint is EXTREMELY important, you don't have time for crazing, wrinkling, lifting or slow drying of other paint brands. Don't bother with the little cans, they're not cost effective.
Make sure that the can and surface to be painted is room temperature when using, I often warm the can in a pail of WARM water for execellent results.
If you have trouble finding Krylon, check the yellow pages for industrial or automotive paint suppliers, they often carry a better selection.

[Anonymous]

Every day of my 59 years I learn something new.
I have never used Krylon but it sure beats cleaning up an airbrush for a "N" job

[Anonymous]

Michael's carries a somewhat limited selection of Krylon spray paints. (they usually offer a 40% off coupon in Sunday papers - good for the purchase of a single item). I have also purchased Krylon at Loew's box store; Home Depot no longer carries Krylon paints. . .Many large hardware chains like Ace and True Value usually carrry Krylon. Also try WalMart, Target, and KMart. Krylon has always been my first choice for most spray painting projects - not necessarily just models.