How about a link to the old one also?
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/154415.aspx
Well guys, I'm once again changing the plan of my layout. This time it's because the amount of switches drove the price of the track WAYYY to high, so now I'm going to jsut focus on the Mullins area, but redesign it to maximize industrial switching while keeping it to about 10 or 11 switches. there will be two legs for scenery, and then a liftout staging area in between that will one day have switches added to it for two stub-end tracks facing each way.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
Sawyer: Could you maybe post the new plan (that is, assuming you made a few changes)?
Well, I guess I'll post the first photo of the month. A Tri-State Railway bay window caboose rolls through Watchinson on a TSRy test train:
My Model Railroad: Tri State RailMy Photos on Flickr: FlickrMy Videos on Youtube: YoutubeMy Photos on RRPA: RR Picture Archives
The only thing I've been doing recently is getting the list of parts together to complete that Bicenntenial SD40-2, and listing some stuff (unused engines, buildings, etc.) on ebay.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Joe, sure thing. Also, how about a few pics I took a couple weeks ago outside:
here's the new plan:
also, the first version of that plan:
That's one heck of a long lift bridge, Sawyer! Stability is really going to suffer, and you're going to need a really good system for anchoring it at the ends. But since, knowing you, you're probably going to come up with a couple hundred different plans before you actually start building, we can tackle that if / when you get to it!
I made significant progress on my staging yard and lift bridge this week. I laid track in the staging yard and added a safety fence to shield the trains against the long drop as well as stray elbows.
The staging yard can hold 4 full-length trains.
In addition, I added the safety stop that cuts off power to the staging yard, bridge, and both approach tracks when the bridge is up. After two failed attempts using metal contacts (getting them to touch was a hit-or-miss scenerio) and momentary switches (reversed functions; bridge is up train goes, bridge is down train stops!) I finally hit on the solution using a default-off button. Now I have good contact, the switch triggers easily, and the train stops when the bridge goes up!
Photo lights are really useful when taking photos under the benchwork! The tiny little pin is the button itself, with the wiring visible below. It's actually a complete mess down there, with a lot of remnants of old wiring from the two failed attempts before that. I ended up only isolating the inside rail, since with no ground, trains won't move. So I have a lot of redundant wires down there. The large dowels are my method of keeping the bridge in alignment.
Switches are coming tonight by UPS (a modeler's best friend!) and then I'll lay track over the bridge. Then I need to invite Greg over to cut the rails over the gaps with his Dremel. Xurons leave too big of a gap...
Tyler- Nice work on the staging tracks.Sawyer- The new plan is MUCH better! Although when I was looking at the plan again, I also realized (even before I saw Tyler's comment) that the lift/drop bridge is waaaaaaayyy too long. No need to redo the plan just for that, but keep that in mind when you build the layout. I'd reccomend going no more than three feet long, but even shorter if possible.
This was my first ever paint and decalling, about 3 or 4 years ago.
Alex
My plan was to have a 2x4 be the main support, running down the middle, with two side curtains on the side etc. I'll probably shorten it to 3 feet and have soem more swamp.
Well, I learned several elssons custom painting today; numero uno being to order paint from Walthers through my LHS, not buy it off my LHS's shelves.
GG- That's pretty good! My first decaling job was the Bakery. 4100 will probably be my first paint/decal job.Sawyer- Or you could just order the paint direct from Walthers... That's what I always do. Whenever I go to the LHS, its for something I need right away/just don't want to wait (like when I needed something for a History project) or if I'm not looking for anything in particular (I want something, but not sure exactly what).
TrainManTyThat's one heck of a long lift bridge, Sawyer! Stability is really going to suffer, and you're going to need a really good system for anchoring it at the ends. But since, knowing you, you're probably going to come up with a couple hundred different plans before you actually start building, we can tackle that if / when you get to it!
Joe-I order it through my LHS to avoid shipping charges. Costs me the same, jsut no shipping. and hey, money goes into local business, etc., etc.
Well Tyler, I can't just sit idle on a plan now, can I? I bent the mainline and changed the industries up, so now it looks WAY more interesting. However, it still uses 8 turnouts. Also, shrunk the lift-out to about two and a half feet or so.
with just the track:
with captions:
Happy (belated) 4th!
Sawyer- The new plan is much better. Gets enough going on, without overcrowding (DON'T CHANGE IT AGAIN!!!!!)
Made $40 tonight, so that's 40 closer to an iPod. Once that's taken care of, maybe I can go back to buying stuff so that I can maybe finish the layout (or more importantly, get some cars to pull on said layout...)
Unless girlfriends or food gets in the way, I'll have enough money to order track by the end of August. The Benchwork has unwarped, and is now able to be built upon. Maybe later this week I'll install legs and the foam. I need to bring the bag of excess pink foam down from Boston, and eventually get some hardboard, however I'll wait until I get a couple expressnets and the car forwarding system (after X-mas) before I do that. That will come last. My schedule is track by the end of August, September-December buildings and scenery, X-Mas DCC/Electrical, and then 2010 I can collect rolling stock/locos, and possibly save some money up for a car or get a job.
Alex... I have a big trash bag of excess pink foam that you're welcome to if you can find a way to fit it on the train ("omg!! it's a bomb!!!" ) or somehow get it home...
I won't be able to bring it to Boston for you, since while I'm getting a ride to Lexington, I still have to take the bus, Red Line, and Green Line to get to the Museum of Science, and it would look sort of odd carrying a massive trash bag full of pink insulation foam up to the Volunteer Services Office where I store my bag while on duty...
Joe, it's about to be changed. however, this time, at the suggestion of the folks at nscale.org. All I'm going to do is stretch it out for an 8x12. Basically, jsut add more mainline run.
Track is all laid and glued on the lift bridge! The joint on the staging yard side is already cut, and I'm waiting until both the glue attaching the track to the lift bridge and the glue used to ballast the approaches on the layout side (I don't trust track nails to hold the tracks within 1/16" alignment when they're just driven into 2" thick foam...) to dry before I cut those joints.
I haven't decided whether I'll use a hacksaw, a Xuron, buy a razor saw, or bite the bullet and have a friend with a Dremel come over to cut four lousy joints... I'll probably go with the Xuron and hope the crushed end doesn't interfere with train movements. I'll have to do some careful work with a file.
So I should assume you're not dead, and that I don't get your trains! Aw...
So I was IMing before, and we started discussing my layout. The suggestion came up that I should maybe consider rebuilding my layout. This was suggested to me once before (Tyler suggested it, IIRC), but after thinking about it, I had decided not to.But now that it has come up a second time, I'm thinking that maybe I should. I can adopt a better track plan that is better suited to operations, and has more room for industries. I can also redo the track, this time with actual roadbed, and flextrack with concrete ties. If I do do this, then I can also get wider radius curves, which will make the Comets and MultiLevels look and operate better. I can also install feeders around the track to help with pickup (as of now, there is one set of wires going to the track, and trains speed up in some places and slow down in others). While I'm at it, I can also get a better DCC system, such as a Prodigy Express or Zephyr.On the other hand, I've already put some work and money into this layout, and it will all be gone if I start over. But I could probably sell the E-Z track and use the money to buy flextrack, and maybe have a little money left over (E-Z track is way more than flextrack).
The more I think about it, the more I want to do it. But I would wait until I get some more money and stuff. I could just stop working on the current layout, and just operate until I'm able to build the new one.Am I thinking this over too much? Should I do it, or is it not worth it. I'm driving myself insane thinking about this, so I am BEGGING for input.
Joe, completely forget about it for a day or two (at least until your mind is rested), then list the pros and cons, then go with what makes YOU happy man, it's a hobby, lol.
I can tell you I will be doing NOTHING on my layout plans etc. this wqeek. I came home almost DEAD from soccer camp, lol.
Some of the trailers I've bought recent have arrived. I never realized how much of a pain those collapsable athearn hitches are. Had to enlarge the hole in them and file a little of of the trailer pins to get them to rest on the hitches. I have another 6 coming soon.
Ty, The hacksaw would be a good bet. If you have a cut-off tool or grinder with a thin disc that would work too, but might be a bit cumbersome if it's a tight space.
Alex, remind me not to let you have any of mine if something happens to me. lol (Actually, I'd probably better off doing that since my bro would use them for target practice, and my sis would probably paint them pink and have all sorts of glitter on them.)
Well, thanks to Alex forcing me into rebuilding my layout (thanks), I have this to present:EDIT: The picture isn't showing up, so here's the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ns3010/3701033133/sizes/l/in/photostream/
It's the trackplan for the new Watchinson Line. I actually like this a lot better, because it makes the mainline longer, has room for two industries instead of just one, makes the station more accessible for trains, has more room for a larger yard, and has room for more scenery, such as a larger downtown and a river (which is on the right side of the layout, but I forgot to color it).The main table is 4x10 and a 1/2 (48"x92") and the L-shaped extension is 3x10.5 (2 squares= 1 foot). Minimum radius is 21" (although the curve on the extension is 18" because that's all I had room for. However, this won't matter because I can just put a speed restriction, both because of the curve, and because of the yard). Turnouts are no. 6. And there are no grades.
I'm open to questions, comments, and suggestions. And once again, thanks Alex!
Yeah, well I'm exhausteder...
After some suggestions and comments, I made some much needed modifications to the plan:
The major changes were made to both yards (changing and removing tracks), changing the 21" curve to 20.5" radius, and drawing the turnouts correctly.I'm still here for comments and suggestions
You know how you can tell how your commute is bad? When it requires you to ride on every form of ground transportation in use in the area! Foot, bike, car, bus, light rail, subway, and commuter rail. I got up at 5:30 AM yesterday, and got home at 10:30 PM. I literally covered 110 miles yesterday, about 2/3 of it on public transportation. And I have to do the same thing next week on Wednesday and Thursday!
Sounds like you had fun!
I got back to the LRV after you left. None of the guys there knew you, but they knew me! When I got back to Riverside they had just finished getting it on the trailer!
TGIF!!!!!! Anyway, a few weeks ago I ordered an Atlas Trainman Covered hopper at my LHS. If it's there, today I may buy some of my track that is needed. Joe, as said on other forums, get larger radius curves and more industries. My layout is having an identity crisis. I don't know if I want to model Norfolk Southern, or my freelanced railroad. UGGGGGGGGGG..... BTW, have fun Tyler!
Ty, you forgot segway and moped.
I was planning to around and pick up supplies today, but a case of food poisoning is holding me back.
Aha! I found this place again! I keep losing it!Whoever makes the last post at the end of the month should remind people we are starting a new thread.
Well it's a little too late right now, but I'll take some photos of the CP C424 I have almost finished tomorrow.
All I need to do is wire, light and install the ditchlights and the castings, then maybe just a bit of paint touch-up here and there. It was a pretty easy detailing job, I'll post the parts and materials used tomorrow too if anyone is interested. It's the same model that I started back in December, but with school out, I've actually had time to redo and finish what I wanted!
I'll leave you with a prototype photo:
http://www.cprdieselroster.com/Roster%20Archive/CP%204200/CP%204239-2.jpg
Enjoy!
I splurged on an Atlas 17.6k gallon corn syrup car. Someone pay me to do something so I can have money for track!
Guilford Guy I splurged on an Atlas 17.6k gallon corn syrup car. Someone pay me to do something so I can have money for track!
Alex, welcome back!!! I'd have to agree with your comment about shipping across the border being expensive.
GG, I'm way ahead of you.
I haven't updated on here for ages but here is some photo's of what i have have at the moment.
the sawmill is about 90% complete but as with any model railroad its never finished so there are always small details that makes the scene more realistic.
the town on the other hand is giving me the absoulte shits, im wanting a detailed layout (not super detailed where you can read the pakages of the cereal box in the general store) so doing the work consumes so much time but i am glad on the way its turning out, especially considering its the most complete layout i have made ever.
the thing im itching to get is the circuits for the grade crossing and boom gates from logic rail technologies can't wait cause the mechanics are all set up
PS sorry for the blurry pics, first time trying night shots
Animal, nice layout.
Alex, looking forward to the Alco man!
GG, I would, but I need money for my own track, lol.
Well, my ultimate plan to get a mainline layout around the walls has been shot down. I could go double deck, which I might, to get the mainline run I want, but what will end up happening is I will end up downsizing and compromising with myself and creating something right now that will be able to be expanded in the future (like an industrial district at the end of a line that I could build upon later on). I'll eventually come up with something. Good lord, why does it have to be so dern frustrating!
This morning went great painting. Got everything painted that I wanted too. I still need to do the walkways and order decals, but here's the photos (please forgive the scratches, I only wanted to strip the locos and paint them): Also, I bought these saturday:
If I had money, I'd pay you to install ditch lights on 9423! The TCS T1 decoder that's in it right now is capable of having ditch lights attached to the green and purple wires (with blue as common) so it would work as-is.
Nice painting Sawyer! They turned out really nice. Did you use an airbrush?
TrainManTy If I had money, I'd pay you to install ditch lights on 9423! The TCS T1 decoder that's in it right now is capable of having ditch lights attached to the green and purple wires (with blue as common) so it would work as-is.
LOL, shipping shipping...
I'll take photos when I wire and install the ditch lights. I use mini LED's, you'll see later on...
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So here's the work so far:
I added various DW, MBE, DA and Railflyer parts. All that’s left is to add the ditch light castings and light them, and maybe change some of the louvers to better represent the CP modifications. A little bit of weathering it’ll be done!
The 4 filters on each side are oversize I know, and some are a little crooked. Also I found out the doors on the model are all wrong for the 1990’s. CP must have changed the doors with handles over to the knuckle buster style sometime in the 80’s. I might fix that in the future.
For now, the work I have done represents the prototype well. Overall I am happy with this project. It is my first “complete” detailing project, all the others that I have done are still on the shelf, waiting for parts or money…
More photos to follow as she comes closer to completion.
Railfan AlexNice painting Sawyer! They turned out really nice. Did you use an airbrush?
Thanks man! Yeah, I used a Badger model 250. Let me tell you, all that sucker might be able to do is lay down a nice even coat, but it sure does it well!
That C424 is looking AWESOME!
TrainManTyIf I had money, I'd pay you to install ditch lights on 9423! The TCS T1 decoder that's in it right now is capable of having ditch lights attached to the green and purple wires (with blue as common) so it would work as-is.
You know, alternating ditch lights are not mandated by the FRA. None of Pan Am's locomotives have alternating ditch lights. Wire the Green and Blue to the forward ones, and the Purple and Blue to the rear. I already have ditch light castings too, they just need to be drilled out and have bulbs installed.
Sawyer: Nice job with the painting!
Alex: C424=Amazing!!!
Guilford Guy You know, alternating ditch lights are not mandated by the FRA. None of Pan Am's locomotives have alternating ditch lights. Wire the Green and Blue to the forward ones, and the Purple and Blue to the rear. I already have ditch light castings too, they just need to be drilled out and have bulbs installed.
So one ditch light would come on with the front headlight, and the other would come on with the rear headlight?
Well, I redid the plan (again), so here's a link to the thread: EDIT: Whoops, forgot the link... http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/156642.aspx?PageIndex=2 (scroll to the second post on that page).
Well since the weather wasn't so nice this evening, I sat down at the workbench for a few hours and fiddled around with the ditch lights.
So first we have a size comparison: That's a Kadee coupler, the ditch light castings w/lenses and of course the LED's.
Here is one of the ditch lights wired up: It isn't my best soldering work, but remember, these things are small and pretty darn difficult to handle!
The two LED's now wired and painted: I paint the metal parts with a few layers of paint to help avoid any shorting in the brass ditch light casting, which could potentially burn the decoder. The inside of the ditch light castings are also painted.
Now they are installed in the castings:
Here's what they look like on the locomotive. It's all assembled again now:
Another: The protoype sits in the background.
Here they are lit: Not the greatest shot, but you get the idea.
What's left to do:
I broke my last #80 drill bit, so I need to go over to the LHS to get a few before I can drill holes to install the last detail parts.
I'll take some nice outdoor photos once she's all done.
ns3010Sawyer: Nice job with the painting!Well, I redid the plan (again), so here's a link to the thread: EDIT: Whoops, forgot the link... http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/156642.aspx?PageIndex=2 (scroll to the second post on that page).
thanks man! your plan looks good, though it's a small picture. I might add an industry inside the loop though, looks like a lot of open space.
Alex, jsut be glad you weren't installing ditch lights on that C424 in N scale!
Alex: I have to hand it to you; that is some seriously impressive work! You don't meet many modelers that have the skill and patience to solder to such small LEDs! Outstanding work!
One suggestion: You noted that you are going to tint the LEDs with clear yellow paint. That should work fine and make them look yellow enough, but you may want to replace the regular headlights with the same blue-white colored LEDs and tint those too. That would be much easier than trying to match the colors on the head and ditch lights just by tinting the blue-white LEDs.
I've created a new website for the WRS... The blog is still up, and I may still update it occasionally, but a real website has been in the making for a while now, and it provides a much easier way to introduce people to the railroad.
http://sites.google.com/a/trahans.net/wrs/
Nice Ty. I like the website.
I especially enjoy the way you have set it up, like a real railroad's website. The media page was a good idea, and I always enjoy looking at people's rosters.
I like the new layout, and all my painted locomotives!
Now you just need to go buy the domain!
Nice website Tyler, I've got one for my model railroading (the one under contact me) and one for SCRail: http://scrail.webs.com/
I use webs (aka freewebs) for my websites though, not google. And yes, I know that my site ain't anything like yours!
Thanks for the kind words all!
The setup like a real railroad was intentional, and was closely patterned off of the website for a local shortline, the Providence & Worcester Railroad.
I had thought about purchasing the domain name, and Google Sites provides an easy way to use their interface and map to a domain name, but the money will be better spent on the railroad itself.
Sawyer: You might want to consider a change to Google Sites. The interface is great, and most importantly, there's no ads!
Today I went to my LHS and picked up some pieces of rolling stock.
I got a WC boxcar, and a CRIP 3 bay covered hopper.
I'm going to patch this one day for the CNW. It will look like this http://www.railcarphotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=50775 but the the "R" logo and "The Rock" will be intact. I'll also replace the brake wheel and paint the wheels a rust brown color.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
Tyler, might swap, I'm, not sure.
Sweet project Jordan!
Hey guys, finally got my new room painted. Here's a couple pics.
My future layout space. I'll be moving the weight bench and chair. might move the blue crates, I'm not sure.
Here's my workbench, storage area, and study desk. I still need to hang those Titanic prints up.
Finally, a shot of my rs1 on the test track:
Also, shot this video of a train running on the layout with our digital camera. Yes, it's crappy quality. I'm not sure if it sped the train up any though.:
Jordan: That's the Athearn RTR car, right? I have one exactly like that (an orange D&RGW) that's among my favorite pieces of rolling stock. They roll really well...
TrainManTy Jordan: That's the Athearn RTR car, right? I have one exactly like that (an orange D&RGW) that's among my favorite pieces of rolling stock. They roll really well...
Yep, the WC boxcar was an Athearn RTR too...
Ty and Jordan, is it me or is there not much of a detail difference between the RTR and BB versions? I have 3 of the BBs, a MILW, a SOO, and an NP. Unfortunetaley the bottoms on the BB PS hoppers were never painted. The Soo was easy to correct since I had a silver that was dead on. The NP I brush-painted the bottom BN green (BN green is pretty close to NP green). The MILW was a different story. I tried yellow, but it was too bright, so I tried spraying a light coat of brown over it to get it closer. It looks okay, except for one spot that is actually brown. I might run to a store and see if they have a spray bomb that is closer, or weather it and try to hide it.
I did the aforementioned hoppers and built 3 E&C PS-1 boxcars (MP, ACL, CRIP) I had laying around. The PS-1s are the modern version with short ladders and no roofwalks. Someday this week I'm going to run downtown and pick up some dullcote (and maybe a spray bomb for the MILW hopper)
A lot of the earlier RTR stuff are BB kits that have new trucks and metal wheels, along with McHenry's. Most of the newer stuff are retooled BB and MDC kits, and now they are releasing Genesis cars in RTR.
I finished weathering the C424 this evening, pictures tomorrow. There are pros and cons to the work, you'll see sooner than later what I mean. I expect to hear your honest opinions on the weathering. I want to improve!
It could be a retooled version of the BB car, and I've had it for quite a few years now, so it's likely. But it has really nice rolling trucks, (had) McHenry couplers, and feels pretty heavy. So it's hard to tell...
I have alot of Athearn rolling stock, both BB and RTR. I figured I would build up my roster quickly and affordably when a guy was selling his modern equipment. I also bought many Atlas and Walthers and Accurail cars from him. I will eventually replace the older BB cars in my fleet, but in the meantime, it fills the big hole in the roster that I once had!
-----------------
In other news, the C424 is all done guys! Let me know what you think:
This was my first time weathering a "real" model, I've been practicing on some old Tyco stuff since January!
I used a mix of airbrushing, chalk powders and washes. I used dull-cote over everything when I was done. Windows were masked.
First I went over grills with several washes of oily black. After that I dusted the entire model with white/gray with the airbrush to fade the paint, then the oily black on the roof, along with rust around the trucks and the cab. I also made a dirt/earth/mud mix and sprayed that on the trucks and frame. I also painted the wheels a dirty, rusty color. Finally I mixed several chalk powders to look like rust, and used that on the trucks, bottom of fuel tank and along the bottom of the frame and walkway.
I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and I can't wait to start the next project!
When you end up replacing that old BB stuff...let me know... I need to expand my roster too!
The C424 looks great! The grime looks excellent, and really makes all the details (especially the air hoses) stand out! I'd be honored to have a loco as nice as that running on my railroad! (not to discount the other Alex's locomotives) Nice job!
And I'm off for Boston...it's too early...
Alex, Looks good. Leeme know when you start replacing that BB stuff.
Awesome work weathering that C424 Alex!'
Well, my decals should be in at the hobby shop today, and I have youthgroup at my church tonight, and the hobby shop is on the way to church, so I'll pick them up then. I'll probably start applying decals Friday, as I want to read The Secret Life of Bees Thursday (dern summer reading!) My girlfriend is coming over saturday, so decal work will resume Sunday.
Alex, that looks very spiffy! Skills must be relative to names!
So um, USPS lost my GP40-2s, so with the insurance money, I'm getting 2 GP40-2s with sound, xurons, 9 Central Valley turnout kits, 36ft of M-E Code 70 flex, 18 feet of M-E Code 55 flex, and 30ft of cork roadbed. I figure that spurs and whatnot won't need roadbed and will be laid directly on the foam.
I need to order 2 GP40-2 shells form Atlas because the only sound equipped undecs at MB Klein had the nose hoodlight, but 12$ for the 2 shells isn't a big set back, and it gives me a couple more test shells!
Alex your Alco looks great!
Thanks guys!Alex, they lost your GP40-2's?!? That sucks... But I guess you end up with more from the insurance money, so that's always good.
It would have been nice to have the locos3 months ago, but the fact that I can afford my track and 2 sound equipped GP40s is really quite nice. This means I can now start working on acquiring/scratchbuilding structures for the layout!
Guilford Guy It would have been nice to have the locos3 months ago, but the fact that I can afford my track and 2 sound equipped GP40s is really quite nice. This means I can now start working on acquiring/scratchbuilding structures for the layout!
Your Welcome...
Here's an update on what I've been doing lately. I got my MBE cab that I ordered online and was disgusted by the quality. The detail was appaling and the thing basically fell apart in my hands! So I modified the PS cab that I had so the front wall was no longer angled.
Comments Welcome!
looks great to me Andy!
Well, 5 of my locos now have number sand my caboose is pretty much weathered up. Pics tomorrow.
Yesterday I cut the running boards near the front of the loco and lowered them. I had to file a small indent do accomidate the steam chest. I think it turned out well.
My next step will be to drill a small hole behind the smoke stack and install the bell.
Looks great Andy!
Got my decals Wednesday, unfortunately my paint either was damaged itself or the box it was in was, but hopefully that'll be here today, then I can paint my locos handrails and finally have them all painted up. But that's another story. I've gotten that NW caboose decaled and weathered, 5 of my locos decaled, and my CSX boxcar weathered. pics:
Before pic of caboose:
After (red decal trim film and Gothick Block White numbers used):
(this side got messed up early, but it still looks ok):
pic of my rs-1:
here's the album w/ all the loco pics:
http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/Packers_1/weathering%20pictures/
Hey Andy! That's some good work, I like it a lot! Amazing what a few details do to that model. There are 5 of our club members that have the Bachmann 2-10-2 and all of them run like crap. How does yours run?
Sawyer, weathering on the boxcar doesn't look to bad! But you should paint the wheels a rusty colour or something, they sorta stand out like soar thumbs.
Alex- That C424 is pretty schweet!
Andy- Great job in the steamer!
Sawyer- Nice job with the weathering! I didn't notice the wheels, maybe because the pix were resized, or it's just my computer (no shock there!).
Thnaks guys! Yeah Alex, wheels and trucks are completely unweathered. I need to drybrush them soon.
Railfan Alex Hey Andy! That's some good work, I like it a lot! Amazing what a few details do to that model. There are 5 of our club members that have the Bachmann 2-10-2 and all of them run like crap. How does yours run?
Never had any substantial problems with the way the 2-10-2 runs. The only comment i have is that with the original decoder (which i have since replaced with a tsunami sound decoder) when it ran (more noticably at slow speeds) it would lurch slightly. Now that problem has pretty much gone away. It pulls well. I like it a lot!
Andy, looks good.
Alex, I forgot to ask earlier, but what was the paint combonation you used for weathering the trucks on your ALCO? Reason being that it looks really close to what lots of pictures of BN engines have for their trucks.
I made a round to the LHS the other day, lo and behold, they had dullcote and HO scale frieght cars (although they were all basic Bachmanns or Model powers). I picked up an ATSF cylindrical hopper in addition to dullocte. I also checked to see if they had the paints Pelle Soeburg used in his weathering article. However, I didn't have the funds for the paint or a second can of dullcote.
I went and weathed that, my Soo hopper and the 3 recent Ps-1 boxcars I got and my U30C (which came out really well). Unfortunately, the sealing coat didn't seal again (the powders come of if I look at wrong), and that the can was empty before I could try a second sealing cote.
Needless to say, I wasn't happy (no I didn't thow anything, except the empty can in the trash).
So now I intend to use my airbrush for weathering. Question is should I go with Acrylics or Enamels for weathering, and can clear paints be used to seal in pastels? I figure a jar of clear paint will last me longer than a can of dullcote. I don't really intend to use those cheap $1 acrylic paints since they seem to fall off rather easily.
Guess where I went this weekend? I biked over the rail trail that I model, in modern times, as if it were never abandoned! I made some comparisons between the actual place and my layout, and here are my thoughts:
Tyler, you might not want to remove all the heavy indsutry, because that could make the local a very boring job unless there were still some good local industries.
Also, since you model it as if it was never abandoned, the heavy indsutry could be modern indsutries that came after the time the line was supposed to be abandoned. Just a couple of thoguhts.
Well, I think I'm gonna change the SCRail corporate design again (not the layout design, and changing the corporate design will make my layout design more believable). I haven't really worked it out, but I think I will end up expanding the CPDR portion and make that the real loco hog etc., and then say they operate indsutrial branches and also jsut brnach lines throughout SC.
For example, they would have three branches in Aiken county. I'd model the north one. Each would require a road switcher for the way freight, and then maybe 4-6 other locomotives to run other trains (on my branch, there's the local, but there's also a fertilizer plant at the end, off layout (staging) that would probably require two locomotives to operate it in real life). I still need to work out the particulars.
OK, enough about the SCRail corporate crap.How about some finished motive power? All that's left is weatheirng, which is why I didn't put the windows back in. I'm getting enough turnouts to lay the mainline along the 4x8 (not enough flex or the one turnout for staging) from a guy on another forum hopefully before school starts, and then construction begins. will hopefully get the brackets and foam for the staging and 4x8, respectively (I have enough foam left over to cover the staging). but anyways, pics:
Also, finally painted and built this kit:
I still want to have a quarry, or at least a gravel transload center, since those are very common in New England. I'll probably have that in Enfield, as well as the paper mill that's actually there (except larger, built with Walthers Modulars, styrene, and junk box parts) but it will be smaller. I'll still run a dedicated train, but you won't find any massive loaders and buildings. It will just be a big gravel pile with a front loader nearby. I'll buy a nice scale one for that... In the real Enfield, there's a tree covered hill in that location, so I can live with building a loading track there...
I will be adding a depot and some buildings, and I'll have to add a river where part of Kimball Scrap is. I'll just build that around the river...
I don't know what else I'll do for industry changes. I didn't bike to Canaan, so I can justify doing whatever I want there short of building a nuclear power plant (although nuclear waste cars on WRS track would be fun! )
Then I have a bridge or two to add to the Mascoma Lake Grade, and some different stuff in Mascoma. It doesn't look good with a New Englandy town right next to the steel engine house and Hyce Machinery. I'll put those structures in Enfield and make the town of Mascoma miles away from the tracks just like the real thing!
Also, I may actually use pulpwood flats for Delery Pulpwood & Lumber traffic rather than gondolas, and use the gons for rock service. There were actually several prototype roads that did that, especially since it's larger rocks (small table-sized on an HO figure) and not really gravel.
A properly done quarry would look awesome. I'll be available to assist with scenery. Assuming that GP40-2Ls(no W, that's a railfan thing) will be around $70+$30 decoder, and you want 3, you're going to need um, lets see, math, right, $300. To be honest that seems manageable. Once that done, because you're rolling stock is adequate for the current situation, I'd begin replacing buildings. Walther's Budd's trucking, and Lauston Shipping would be good for replacing Hyce, and adding another industry in Lebanon, or maybe replacing Agrawal Paper. You know, Seaman Paper trucks their paper products to a brick freight house or something in Otter River, where it is loaded onto boxcars and picked up by Pan Am. This might be a more manageable idea for the new paper company. Rather than invest in Modulars, (Agrawal, or whatever its new name may be) just buy a freight station kit and park some boxcars and trailers by it.
http://photos.nerail.org/showpic/?2006120218432819807.jpg
I think a quarry would look best in Mascoma, so we can replace the team track with that. You're welcome to help with that, and we can name it after you, since it's the biggest industry... It might have some problems with flooding though, since Mascoma Lake is right next to it on the other side of the tracks!
I already have the Walthers Modulars, so I'll use them to build Agrawal Paper. But if I end up going for two paper mills, I may use a freight house.
Is paper only shipped in plug-door boxcars, or can I use regular old sliding-door cars? I never have enough cars for Agrawal when I only use plug-doors! But I have plenty of regular boxcars with the same type of doors as 4900.
To keep everyone else up to date.
Ship granite blocks south over the line to the MSRR, then onto PAR, and finally to Fletcher quarry. Increased traffic for both WRS and MS!
Guilford Guy To keep everyone else up to date. Ship granite blocks south over the line to the MSRR, then onto PAR, and finally to Fletcher quarry. Increased traffic for both WRS and MS!
Thanks. Good lord, New England has some great indsutries.
Course, down south, you got textiles, paper, chemicals, feed, seed, cotton, flour, cement...................
Sawyer, don't forget the terrorists tourists, car factories and imports/exports from the southern ports.
Yes, we do! Granite, paper, potatoes (in Maine, anyway), textiles (we have a lot of mills, especially in MA, CT, and RI), cement, corn syrup, miscellaneous freight traffic, etc.
And then we have covered bridges, shortlines running Alcos, and awesome fall foliage!
PackerSawyer, don't forget the terrorists tourists, car factories and imports/exports from the southern ports.
True. Hey, south Carolina has the port of Charleston. I could see an autorack facility from the Aquarium on one side, and intermodular on the other. then driving back we passed the intermodular rail yard and I saw a couple locos (and I'm willing to bet I'm using the wrong term, but so sue me). good trip, lol.
Down south we got Geeps, deep dark woods, swamps in some areas, and who could forget the Appalachian mountians and coal haulers?
True, very true. How about a black geep hauling 8 covered hoppers?
Here in Jersey, we have NJ Transit on 12 rail lines and 3 light rail lines, part of SEPTA R3 (not sure about that, whichever goes to West Trenton), the Northeast Corridor, NS, CSX, Conrail (Conrail Shared Assets Operations [CSAO], and this often causes NS and CSX power to be on the same train), Morristown & Erie (ME)(Alcos!), New York, Susquehanna, & Western (NYSW), Cape May Seashore Lines (CMSL), and other shortlines.
Traffic is tons of Intermodal (especially in Newark, Elizabeth, Kearny, etc. and on the Lehigh Line), Auto trains, Manifests, Trash trains, Ethanol, Locals, and of course, M&Ms! (M&M plant is only 20 minutes from where I live! [shipped out in green Louisville & Wadley boxcars on NS H02]). I'm not exactly sure about anything in South Jersey (although it is a different state [for those that don't know, "New Jersey" is actually 3 "different" states- North Jersey, South Jersey, and the Jersey Shore]), but it's probably mostly the same or different stuff.
Guilford GuyCoal traffic gets boring. We get 2 coal trains, one with NS equipment, the other with vintage B&M and MEC hoppers. Those sporadic trains, (every few days) are enough to satisfy me. I prefer watching 5 SD40-2s, GP40s, and GP40-2Ls hustle 128 cars up through the Deerfield River Valley.
Back in the 60s and 70s coal trains where pretty neat! SD40s, SD40-2s, SD45s and SD45-2s, even F units where trusted with these trains. Even in the 80s, 90s, and yes, even a couple years ago coal trains where still pretty good (Atleast on the BNSF). In the 80s BN still trusted coal trains with SD40-2s and U-Boats, which carried over to the BNSF in the 90s for a short while. When they finally got bumped off, the SD60s, SD60Ms, SD70MACs, and SD75M/Is took over on the coal trains, which still gave an interesting mix! It hasn't been up until recently as that power ages, Class ones have gotten new power to replace the older units, making coal trains boring. Although, I'll take the BNSF coal train on the CN Valley Sub...this looks a lot better than a CN GEVO, even though it's just a different paint scheme.
Maybe now, like jordan said in the 70's and 80's it was a lot better!!
Some of my favorite vids:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX7DvsLCEIYhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CntEdKRnz5Q&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PMVxVye7KI&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMQX7Pd7F80&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygab6YnYrOI&feature=related
I have a feeling I posted some of these before.
Heh, Guilford's a walking antique show! GP7s(MEC), GP9s(B&M), GP9rs(BM), GP35s(NW), GP35Hs(NW), one GP38(MEC), GP40s(Conrail), GP40HHs(NW), GP40-2s(CN Widecabs), GP40-2Ls(CN Widecabs), SD40-2s(HLCX)- some with SD45 and SD45-2 carbodies, SD26s(ATSF), one SD39(ITC), one SD45HH(NW).Yhe newest locomotives are the 33 year old GP40-2/GP40-2Ls, of which they have 20, and the oldest are the MEC GP7s, which turn 60 next year. Vincent will enjoy the fact that the some PAR ballast cars remain in GN paint, and others are in MKT. Then there are the B&M and MEC hoppers and Gons in coal and work service, B&M and D&H passenger equipment, B&M and MEC plows, including several double track plows, and B&M MEC wreck outfits. PAR is also the last railroad to employ a big hook in a wreck outfit. Most railroads today either hire another party (RJ Corman) or use bulldozers and mobile cranes to right wrecked cars. You can imagine how lucky I feel!
Guilford GuyHeh, Guilford's a walking antique show! GP7s(MEC), GP9s(B&M), GP9rs(BM), GP35s(NW), GP35Hs(NW), one GP38(MEC), GP40s(Conrail), GP40HHs(NW), GP40-2s(CN Widecabs), GP40-2Ls(CN Widecabs), SD40-2s(HLCX)- some with SD45 and SD45-2 carbodies, SD26s(ATSF), one SD39(ITC), one SD45HH(NW).Yhe newest locomotives are the 33 year old GP40-2/GP40-2Ls, of which they have 20, and the oldest are the MEC GP7s, which turn 60 next year. Vincent will enjoy the fact that the some PAR ballast cars remain in GN paint, and others are in MKT. Then there are the B&M and MEC hoppers and Gons in coal and work service, B&M and D&H passenger equipment, B&M and MEC plows, including several double track plows, and B&M MEC wreck outfits. PAR is also the last railroad to employ a big hook in a wreck outfit. Most railroads today either hire another party (RJ Corman) or use bulldozers and mobile cranes to right wrecked cars. You can imagine how lucky I feel!
You're starting to make me want to model Guiliford Alex. Bout the only thing missing are U23Bs and B23-7s.
The last U Boat ran in 2001... There's 2 U18Bs sitting in Montreal stripped of many parts, although to my knowledge they're in storage somewhere where railfans can't snatch them. They got rid of the Centuries, the B&M GP38-2s/GP40-2s in the 90s. At the same time the other SD45s were scrapped or sold to MRL, and the SD39s and various MEC/BM Geeps, and SWs met their end in front of the torch. It is interesting to note that EVERY B&M GP38-2s and GP40-2 is currently in active service.
NJT is unique too... They have the ex-CNJ GP40PH-2s (originally GP40Ps, now 41 years old), GP40PH-2As and Bs (rebuilt by Conrail in Juniata from various GP40s), GP40FH-2s (rebuilt by Morrison-Knudsen from Conrail, RI, MoPac, UP, and MILW GP40s and BN F45 cowls), PL42ACs (built by Alstom, 2004-06), GP40-2s (rebuilt by Juniata from Conrail GP40s, used in MOW service), MP20B-3s (rebuilt by Motive Power Industries from GP40FH-2s 4130-4134, only locomotives of this type),and F40PH-2CATs (rebuilt by Morrison-Knudsen from F40PH-2s. Electric power is ALP-44s (basically AEM-7s, just newer) and ALP-46s (built by AdTranz, 2001 [ALP-46As are currently being built by Bombardier, who absorbed AdTranz]). And they're also getting the ALP-45DPs from Bombardier, which will have diesel and catenary capability. And we have Arrow III EMUs, (NO, NOT THE BIRD!), and we had Arrow IIs and Arrow Is (rebuilt into CIBs). And we also had U34CHs (M-N also had 1).And they have Comet IIMs (CII rebuilds), CIIIs, CIVs, CVs, and Multilevels. And they were the only ones with CIs and CIBs (but now lots of transit system have them since Transit sold them).All their power is unique except for the GP40FH-2s (6, technically they're GP40FH-2Ms since they were rebuilt) that Metro-North has, the F40PH-2CATs (5, I think) they have, and the GP40PH-2 (I believe it is technically a GP40PH-2B) that M-N has. M-N also has CIIIs and CVs.
And AMT (Montreal) stole 5 of our GP40FH-2s (4135, 4137, 4140, 4143, and 4144) and two F40PH-2CATs (4117, 4118). They also stole some Comet Is and IBs.And they're copying us because they're getting ALP-45DPs and Multilevels.
ALEX, STOP COPYING AND STEALING FROM ME!!
ns3010 ALEX, STOP COPYING AND STEALING FROM ME!!
lol! I don't mind seeing all your power! We call it Jersey Junk though, all the crews say it runs like crap.
Guilford Guy The last U Boat ran in 2001... There's 2 U18Bs sitting in Montreal stripped of many parts, although to my knowledge they're in storage somewhere where railfans can't snatch them.
The last U Boat ran in 2001... There's 2 U18Bs sitting in Montreal stripped of many parts, although to my knowledge they're in storage somewhere where railfans can't snatch them.
No, actually you see them when you drive by on the highway, very easy to get some shots if you wanted.
Guilford Guy GP40-2Ls(no W, that's a railfan thing)
GP40-2Ls(no W, that's a railfan thing)
Actually there are the GP40-2LW's and the GP40-2W's. I don't know where you came up with that. I've been in the cab of a CN one and they even call it a GP40-2LW. Without the W, it's not a widecab. The main difference between the two is the frame. The GP40-2LW units have a heavy duty frame and the fuel tanks. They sit about two inches taller than a GP40-2W. The main beams are larger than the standard GP40 type frame. If the two are coupled together you can see the difference. When they were ordered, they had larger fuel tanks, and the way GMD accomplished this without adding to the overall weight of the locomotive was to use thinner end plates, and other areas that were not load, or stress points. The idea was to put the metal where the stresses were. These changes ended up weakening the frame in derailments, and so they were all modified by CN.
Packer Alex, I forgot to ask earlier, but what was the paint combonation you used for weathering the trucks on your ALCO? Reason being that it looks really close to what lots of pictures of BN engines have for their trucks.
First I took the airbrush and faded with Reefer White/Reefer Gray. Then I went over with Rust. Then I mixed Dirt/Earth/Mud mix and sprayed that. All PolyScale acrylic paints. I prefer and recommend acrylics, easier to clean off when something goes wrong. Then I mixed all sorts of powdered chalks (browns, blacks, yellows, grays, reds etc...) I got at an art store, until they looked like a rust colour. I used some cheapo soft paint brushes to apply the powders, and sealed Everything up with Dull-Cote. Clean the wheels before you go to the club!
I know they're easily visible, its the missing parts that are in storage somewhere...
Also, to my knowledge, GMDD classified these engines as GP40-2s and GP40-2Ls. If you get a chance to look on the locomotives, the W is in paranthesies thus a GP40-2(W), and a GP40-2L(W). There was a huge "explicative deleted" throwing contest on the Atlas forum about what exactly the L stood for. Most were under the false impression that it stood for "Light," as in lightweight, despite the fact that the GP40-2(W) is 260,000lbs, and the GP40-2L(W) is 262,000lbs. The argument that I agree with is that the L stands for Lead, and while I can't remember the details, there was better supporting detail.
Guilford Guy I know they're easily visible, its the missing parts that are in storage somewhere... Also, to my knowledge, GMDD classified these engines as GP40-2s and GP40-2Ls. If you get a chance to look on the locomotives, the W is in paranthesies thus a GP40-2(W), and a GP40-2L(W). There was a huge "explicative deleted" throwing contest on the Atlas forum about what exactly the L stood for. Most were under the false impression that it stood for "Light," as in lightweight, despite the fact that the GP40-2(W) is 260,000lbs, and the GP40-2L(W) is 262,000lbs. The argument that I agree with is that the L stands for Lead, and while I can't remember the details, there was better supporting detail.
Whatever the case may be, it's a minor detail, but I was told the L was for "large", as in larger fuel tank. We will never know!
I'm looking this over, and both the standard frame, and tall frame units are classified as GP40-2Ls. Of the 279 produced, 233 had standard frames, and 46 (11 GO Transit, and 35 CN) had the tall frame and large fuel tank. If both contain the L in their official designation, then that rules out the L being used to distinguish Ligthweight Steel, Lighter in weight, or Larger Fuel Tank. Right now I have to agree with whoever said it that L stands for Lead. The North American Safety cab was probably safer in the event of a collision/wreck, and provided better visibility, thus it would make sense for CN to use them as a lead unit compared to a standard cab locomotive.
Guilford Guy The last U Boat ran in 2001... There's 2 U18Bs sitting in Montreal stripped of many parts, although to my knowledge they're in storage somewhere where railfans can't snatch them. They got rid of the Centuries, the B&M GP38-2s/GP40-2s in the 90s. At the same time the other SD45s were scrapped or sold to MRL, and the SD39s and various MEC/BM Geeps, and SWs met their end in front of the torch. It is interesting to note that EVERY B&M GP38-2s and GP40-2 is currently in active service.
If memory serves me right, there's a RR in upstate SC; the Pickens Rwy, I think; that runs bright orange U18Bs. I'll google it.
OK, here's a couple pages. After reading this, if someone made a U18B in N scale, i think I'd model this railroad. My grandma lives in Greenville, which is clsoe to Easley, and shoot, I could get a bunch of prototype pics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickens_Railway#Pickens_locomotive_history
Then start, Intermountain is doing them.
Guilford GuyThen start, Intermountain is doing them.
A couple people on nscale.org suggested using U23Bs to bash from. and if the usual Intermountian price is anything to go by, that might be the cheaper option.
Hmmmmm, I need ot think this over, but I probably will stick to my current plans, for now...
It's not just price, but time and end result quality as well. Sure, you can add details to a U23B shell, change the grilles, etc, but it's still going to have the wrong frame length for a U18B. If you cut the frame as well, you have mechanical issues to deal with, and then you still have to cut the shell, remove a piece, then glue it back together.
It's pretty easy for those not skilled at kitbashing (unskilled like me and many modelers today) to make a mistake and have their model look bad. So you can either go for a more-expensive Intermountain model which is prototypically accurate, or you can cut up a U23B and hopefully make a decent model that won't make you and others cringe to look at. (example being my old snowplow)
The choice is yours. Personally, I'd save up for the real U18B!
My MBTA GP40 turned out pretty well, until someone in Vermont decided to melt the cab.
What will probably end up happening is this will pass until I get bored with building my current plan and get a chance to railfan the Pickens Rwy. Then I might start a shelf layout based on the Pickens or something.
EDIT: one other suggestion I received is to use an atlas rs3 frame, change out the fuel tank and truck side frames, then bash the U23B shell to a U18B
Didn't sleep at all last night (and surprisingly I feel fine), but wound up looking at my window at around 6:15 am and noticed it was the perfect light for some early morning pics. So w/o further ado, here';s a couple of the best:
Also did some decal work afterwards. Lettered this C-Liner in honor of my friend Shayne (the MILW apint was glued on, or so it seemed, so yes it's a terible stripping job, but hey, it's wearing blue, ain't it?):
And my H-15-44:
Guilford GuyMy MBTA GP40 turned out pretty well, until someone in Vermont decided to melt the cab.
...what? I thought you abandoned the MC project?
There was a disabled train in Alewife today, and trains were totally backed up for my whole commute. Our train was packed full (rush-hour style, with people not being able to fit on the train, and my backpack getting crushed in the closing doors) by Porter Square station! I ended up getting off at Kendall/MIT and walking to the museum...
I heard about that, my friend commutes to Kendall from Framingham (MBCR to Southie then the Red Line) and said the Red Line was completely bottlenecked. MC project was essentially done aside from paint and handrails, but I decided to trade it... And then the new owner melted the cab.
Smooth...like how you blew up the LEDs on 9423, except with bulbs instead?
Have you seen the new electronic "Solari" board at South Station yet? It has speakers so it clacks like the old one did, except it's not synchronized with the board changing, so it just makes noise at periodic intervals and all the old people commuting who can remember the real Solari boards get up to look if their train has been announced yet! Last week it was broken and wouldn't shut up; the clacking loop just kept repeating itself. Now I know why that seat underneath the speaker wasn't taken!
He melted the cab with a lightbulb? I never thought the bulbs in HO locos ever got that hot, then again, all of my engines have LEDs.
I managed to pick up something off of HO yardsale the other day. A sound/DCC equipped high-hood GP20 for a total of $85. Only problem is that it's a UP, so I have to find a BN for a swap (either end up with just a BN Gp20 with sound, or perform a shell swap and have a spare UP GP20 to sell). Of course someone here will now think I have 91 locos.....
It had nothing to do with the lighting, he put the styrene shell, with the resin cab in an alcohol bath, and ended up melting the cab. And how was I to know what voltage those LEDs were. Stop blaming me for all your problems... The new "Solari Board" has been there for awhile. They sold the old one on ebay for around $500. I wanted to get it and use it to announce when people were running trains on the club!
Note to self, Alcohol melts resin.
The LEDs I put in 9423 were rated at 3 volts, and 12 with the resistors. Best part about them is I got 100 for 25 bucks shipped with resistors. Can't complain for a quater each.
Does Miniatronix make 14v bulbs? Those probably wont get as hot as the 12 volt ones currently in the units. Also Tyler, the Geeps are at Yoshi's because I'm in DC/Rhode Island for most of the Summer, and surprisingly you'll be likely to see him before me. The Caboose is still in the paint shop.
Well the guy who had the sound/dcc GP20 sold it right before I mailed the check. So instead of a GP20, I'm getting an SP NW2 with sound and 3 frieght cars.
Wonder if I can find someone who wants to trade an SP for a BN?
I'm not blaming you... I was as stumped as you were why they didn't work, and I'm actually glad they melted because it forced me to replace them...otherwise I would have left in the blue headlights and the loco would look bad! When I Dullcote #2752 (the GP30), I need to either replace the LED or cover the light bar, since the entire cab lights up with the headlight and numberboard!
Yoshi came over on Thursday to drop off my locos and see the layout and all the improvements you two have suggested and helped me make. He seemed pretty impressed with how it all turned out, and Murphy's Guest Law helped me find two more trouble spots I need to fix!
How does 5817 look? I don't know if I have the rest of the nose stripes here somewhere, but I think I do. You've read through my proposals on a spending plan for WRS yes? Not that I'm trying to run your railroad or anything, but it will look amazing when you have 2 GP40-2Ls leading a freight of non Blue Box equipment around a new, better scenicked layout! ^_^
Trainboy out
Ty, Blue is the most aesome color!!! Kidding aside, You could drill a hole in the light pipe that's big enough to fit the LED or bulb in. Then use black electrical tape on the underside of it. I did that to both of my non-sound GP30s and it fixed them up pretty good. I've never cemented my LEDs to the light pipe since the fit was pretty tight. This also works pretty well for beacons. (ala my U30C)
As for those LEDs being blueish, I've noticed some are like that too. Nothing a bit of transparent amber paint won't fix.
GG, it's Ty's layout, run it how you want it!! (I feel like I've said this before somewhere) besides F45s > GP40-2Ls
I found out today my pin vise won't accept the really small drill bits (#80 and the like) anymore, so tomorrow I'm may run downtown and get one and some paint for weathering. I found out the hard way when I was drilling some holes for the grab irons on a MNS PS boxcar kit I got (the only BB kit that isn't shake the box, and involves some drilling and painting). The bit fell out part of a way through a hole and got stuck in the model, then it proceeded to break when I tried to get it out of there. I got it out, but ended up messing up some of the paint in the area. Luckily I have a color on my bench that is really close to MNS blue.
Packer GG, it's Ty's layout, run it how you want it!! (I feel like I've said this before somewhere) besides F45s > GP40-2Ls
No you don't understand, Alex owns about half the stock shares of the WRS...
I either have 49% of the stock, or am Vice President!
Also guys, it's August...
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/157936/1741973.aspx#1741973