Hello, Can you tell me what track is the best to use? I am modeling in HO scale.
Thanks, Stephen
Just think it could be worse.
You're going to get as many answers to this as there are different brands of track. There is no "BEST" track because everyone has their own likes and dislikes.
What I might think of as the best track, Peco code 83, for example, may not be liked by everyone because they may prefer Atlas code 100, Model Power, Bachmann, Kato, or some other brand.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Stephen,
I use Atlas track and, specifically, Code 83* because it's closer to the prototype. Some folks use the heavier Code 100 because they say that it's more "bullet-proof". Personally, I've never had any problems using Code 83 on my mainline.
There's also Code 70 and Code 55. These are normally used in yards and sidings.
Hope that helps...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
First you have to decide, do you want snap together track that can be rearranged? or permanent track that you solder and so forth?
Bachmann and Kato and Atlas and some others make snap together track. Kato is the best there.
For the other style of track, you really should take a class in how to lay it, or read a book. It is quite involved and requires tools and soldering and a permanent layout. It's not beyond most people's ability, but it does take quite a commintment. The results are more realistic.
Peco and Atlas are the two big suppliers of the "permanent" style of track, although there are others. I recommend Peco switches and so you might as well go Peco track also. Atlas will work and is a little less expensive. There is light guage code 83 and heavy guage code 100. Decisions, decisions. I think for people starting out the heavy guage is more forgiving of mistakes, but both work well.
I too prefer Atlas flex track and Shinohara switches (turnouts). I use both code 83 and 100 and a bit of code 70 (not Atlas).
The heavier code 100 is a bit easier to work with, fits various brands of turnouts without any fuss and will run even older locos and cars. Probably the best "weight" for a beginner in any brand. Just my opinion.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
While we can all tell you the kind of track we use or prefer, we need to know something about your layout (size, period you're modeling, how much time you've had in the hobby, budget, etc.) before we can make any reasonable recommendations about what might work best for you.
Razorclaw wrote: Hello, Can you tell me what track is the best to use? I am modeling in HO scale. Thanks, Stephen
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
What kind of layout are you planning? How serious are you? Will it be permanent or temporary? How realistic do you want it to look? What kind of budget do you have? What kind of modeling skills do you have?
All these questions need to be addressed before you can decide what track is best for your layout. It's a BIG can of worms you've opened, but remember it will be the foundation of your layout so do it right. Mistakes and regrets can become REAL expensive down the line.With that said, I personally like Atlas code 83...
Atlas, Shinohara, Peco, Bachmann, Lifelike, Micro Engineering, and Kato all make high quality track. Four different types of track are used in/available for the HO branch of the hobby.
1. Sectional Track (SnapTrack)
2. Sectional Track with roadbed attached (EZTrack or PowerLoc)
3. Flex Track
4. Handlaid track
All four types of track work well, trains stay on the track, which is about all you can ask of track.
Sectional track makes it easy to create curves of constant radius. The curved sections are made of rigid plastic with the proper curvature molded in. Just lay the curved pieces down and presto, you have an 18" or 22" or whatever curve. The sections are held together with rail joiners and can be rearranged to form new layouts. You don't have to nail sectional track down to run trains. All brands of sectional track will intermate.
Sectional track with roadbed is very simular to plain sectional track except the track comes with a molded roadbed under the ties. This makes for a somewhat more realistic looking track, and is somewhat more rugged. The roadbed has "hookers-together" which are stronger than just the rail joiners on sectional track. Sectional track with roadbed from different manufacturers does NOT intermate, at least not easily.
Flex track comes in three foot lengths and can be bent to form curves. The curve can be of any radius, which makes fitting the track around obstacles somewhat easier. It is quite easy to form a too sharp curve, a curve of less than 18" radius. The track is springy and needs to be nailed down, otherwise the curves try to spring out straight distorting all the track. Flex track is the usual choice for permanent layouts.
Handlaid track is created from loose wooden ties, loose rail, and tiny rail spikes. Some skill is required to handlay track, but it isn't too difficult to learn. Many hand layers find laying track a relaxing exercise. Handlaid looks the most realistic and it is economical.
Rail and track comes in various sizes, referred to by "Code". Code is the height of the rail in thousands of an inch. "Standard" for HO is Code 100 rail (0.1" high). Code 100 is somewhat oversize for HO, and Code 83 is becoming popular. Some old rolling stock with deep wheel flanges won't run on Code 83 because the flanges strike the molded plastic spikes. This is not a real problem these days since the low profile RP-25 wheel flanges have been standard on HO rolling stock since the 1960's. If you have some really old cars with "pizza cutter" flanges the wheel sets can be replaced with RP25 wheels.
Rail now a days is made from nickel-silver, a copper alloy similar to brass, but silver in color. Old track (which sometimes shows up in yard sales) had yellow brass rail. Some old train set track had aluminum rail or steel rail. I would avoid both, aluminum does not solder at all, and steel solders reluctantly at best.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I use Atlas FLex code 83, like many others on this tread. Why? It is a widely available, reasonably realistic and it is probably the very lowest cost flex track. Atlas turnouts are OK, Peco and Shionaharo (sp) are not, in my mind worth twice the cost. Since you are asking this question, it is reasonable to assume you are a newbie like me. My #1 suggestion is to pick a SINGLE vendor of track and turnouts and stay with them exclusively. My recommendation is Atlas code 83 and use Tortoise turnout motors. You can pay for the turnout motors with the money you WILL save over using Peco or Shinohara.
My 2 cents hardly worth that!
Joe
PS, I have 15 Peco turnouts for sale with turnout motors and switchs. $25 bucks each
Well, when you get a little more experience, you can try handlaying. About 45 percent of my layout was laid on wood ties, spiked and ballasted, and I built around 15 track switches. I did that as part of the NMRA achievement program. It was laid in the early 90's and is still in service. The rest is Micro Engineering, and a lot of Peco and Shinohara switches.
Bob
I'm with Joe Daddy on this one. I got Atlas C83 for the prices and they have #8 turnouts. I really haven't had any problems with that which isn't of my own making. I rather make mistakes with cheaper track as I learn. The only thing that I complain about is that the manual switch engines that Atlas sells are not that great. So follow Joe's advice on that one and you will be happy.
That said, next time around when I get to build a larger and more permanent layout I will maybe buy another brand of turnouts and track.
Magnus