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BIG SPIKE, little tie ... plus other newbie type questions

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BIG SPIKE, little tie ... plus other newbie type questions
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 3, 2007 6:29 PM

1st : Built a Campbell trestle but when it came time to lay the track, the spikes available don't seem appropriate ... pix shows a 5/16 spike wtih a standard HO tie - just a bit oversize !!!

Smallest one available will still go all the way through the tie and show underneath.

Solutions ???

 

2nd :keep hearing about a weathering wash of india ink and alcohol ... what type of alcohol and in what ratios would you recommend starting ... such as 3 drops of this and 1 drop of that, etc. etc.

3rd : Hope my 1st attempt at posting a pix works ...

 

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Posted by Don Gibson on Tuesday, April 3, 2007 7:35 PM

ASIDE from using smaller spikes or larger holes, some ties do not come with holes.

A PIN VISE with some dedicated drill bits would be in order. Try a #72 for starters.

FROM you picture, I'd try some Micro-Engineering code 83 or Shinohara code 70 spikes.

Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Tuesday, April 3, 2007 9:43 PM
 GnDKopyKat wrote:
1st : Built a Campbell trestle but when it came time to lay the track, the spikes available don't seem appropriate ... pix shows a 5/16 spike wtih a standard HO tie - just a bit oversize !!!

Smallest one available will still go all the way through the tie and show underneath.

Solutions ???

I know they used to make 3/16" spikes.  But basically there is no solution.  A true scale spike would not hold anything. Likewise a balsa wood tie wouldn't hold it.   The spikes are always longer so they can grip into the roadbed under the tie.

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Posted by Dave-the-Train on Wednesday, April 4, 2007 1:49 AM

To answer the alcohl element of your question...

I find I do the best weathering with a couple of pints of good English Ale... but you MUST be over age and you mustn't abuse of course.

As for paint i use water based or water soluble acrylics so i don;t need to worry about alcohol in the washes.

Cool [8D]

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Posted by twcenterprises on Wednesday, April 4, 2007 4:48 AM

I've not use the india ink, but I understand to use ordinary rubbing alcohol, on a 10-1 basis.  A little ink goes a long way.  You'll have to do trial and error, but that ratio is a good starting point.

Personally, I use powdered chalk.

The spikes have to be that long to hold in the subroadbed below.  Predrill the holes.  Pin vise works, Dremel works MUCH better and faster.

Personally, I use flextrack.  Wood ties make for great gon loads (stained and unstained) and trackside detail (stained).

Brad

EMD - Every Model Different

ALCO - Always Leaking Coolant and Oil

CSX - Coal Spilling eXperts

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Posted by cowman on Wednesday, April 4, 2007 8:48 AM

I've seen a variety of ratios for washes.  Some have different ones for rock, weathering buildings, all sorts of different uses.  They seem to keep a bottle of each on hand, can make similar things look different with the different ones.  Pick a ratio then lighten and darken to suit your needs.  Might want to try each on a sample piece somewhere off the layout to see what they will look like when dried.  (Chunk of the same plaster mix your rocks are made of, unseen side of a building, etc.)

Good luck,

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Posted by fwright on Wednesday, April 4, 2007 11:44 AM

Actually, there are real HO scale size spikes available - in various lengths, no less - from http://www.proto87stores.com/p87stores/frtrck.htm#ULTIM.  Look towards the bottom of the page.  Or if you want tie plates with spike head detail to glue the rail in place, they are on the same page.  Also, Micro Engineering's micro spikes might be small enough for your purposes.

No connection to Proto87 Stores other than I like their products.

Fred W

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 4, 2007 6:41 PM

Thanx, Fred W, for the suggestion ... impressive offering ... sent them an email to buy some samples - again, thanx FRed W.

Good comments on the ink & alcohol mixing, etc. 

Thanx all ... Ed 

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