Do you route or drill for your lighting wires?

[Anonymous]

OK, all of a sudden I found myself having more lights than I can put on 2 layouts.  Anyway, it's a long story, the usual impulse control problem.

The question is, do you route it on your layout to an edge and then go back to power point or do you drill through like a rail bus wire?

[ARTHILL]

What ever is easier and works. It is nice to have bundles of similar wiring, but with retrofitting, I do what works.

[loathar]

I was about to post this myself.Anybody run a DCC style buss for their lights? On small layouts I would just drill and run lines back to the power pack, but that was only a few lights.

[tstage]

I'm still working through this.  Since I want to have individual control of my lighting (especially my interior), I have quite a number of wires running from my lights scattered acroos my layout to my Atlas controller switches.  I need to come up with a way of routing them so that they are easily tracable, use up less wire, but still have independent control.

Tom

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I run two power feed wires (one + and one -) under the layout. The pair starts at the east side of the layout, running at about the center, from east to west and then it turns and goes south to the far end of the extension, running in a pattern like a big "L". The holes for the lighting are drilled straight down through the layout and the lighting wires fed down through them. The lighting wires for each structure then go to the aforementioned pair of power feed wires where they are simply soldered on to the feed wires. It's simple, quick and effective. I use an old AT computer power supply to power all my structure and outdoor wiring (signs, street lights, security lights, etc) on the layout. I use thick 10 gauge braided wire for the power feeds for the lighting. The wires going to the individual structures, etc, are about 18 to 20 gauge. This way, all the wiring is kept under the layout and is centralized.

[loathar]

Jeffrey-Great idea on the pc power supply! (got a couple I was about to pitch) I was thinking about those supplies that come with phones and answereing machines and such but they're low amperage so I would have to use too many. 400 watt pc supply would run a bunch of stuff. Do you use the 12v or the 5v leads? (or both)

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I use the 5v leads for my structures, each structure having two clear Xmas type bulbs wired in series. I use the 12v leads for the other lights, as most of them are streetlights and such that I get from the LHS.

[Texas Zepher]

Anybody run a DCC style buss for their lights?

People have been running accessory power buses on layouts for decades.  This was long before DCC was even a wild imagination.   I had a bus on my first N-scale layout in 1972.  It was only a 2x4.  As soon as one gets more than 5 or 6 accessories a bus becomes practical.

[jbinkley60]

I was about to post this myself.Anybody run a DCC style buss for their lights? On small layouts I would just drill and run lines back to the power pack, but that was only a few lights.

 

Yes, I run a 3 pair 18ga bus for lighting.  1 pair for constant 12V, 1 pair for off/on 12V and 1 pair for 12V variable voltage.

 

 

[Milwhiawatha]

I have a power supply which I run to a Miniatronics 12 position PD block then I run the power wires down through holes I drilled in the layout top and run one wire to a toggle switch then to the poer block and the other wire is ran straight to the Power block it works and a little more work but being able to turn lights off and on sure makes it worth it.

[ShadowNix]

I was about to post this myself.Anybody run a DCC style buss for their lights? On small layouts I would just drill and run lines back to the power pack, but that was only a few lights.

 

Lothar,

Yes, I have an extra pair of wire (green/blue) that I ran with my red/black DCC bus to provide for other power needs...  I have yet to get to wiring lights, but that is my plan...

Brian

[superbe]

Hey Art,

Your scenery is tremendous. The old truck picture especially caught my eye. Having been in the oil business I spotted the side rack cans immediately. I have a half dozen of the real thing

Bob

[Anonymous]

I make liberal use of terminal strips off of power buses to make it easier to trouble shoot the occassional problem or add new lights. All holes are drilled beneath the structure.

I also use LEDs exclusively to avoid having to change burned out bulbs.

Mike Tennent

[John Busby]

hi Iceman_c27

Being the fuss budget I can be I drill a row of 3/8" holes in the cross braces at the control pannel edge of the railway.

My wiring is then run to the closest cross brace then down to and through one of the holes on the way to the control pannel the wire is clipped and tied every 12" to keep it tidy and stop it hanging untidily below the fascia.

I drill holes in the base board to get light track and other feeds below the baseboard.

I always drill a couple more 3/8" holes than I think I need for the very reason you mention, its later on and I want add the extra thing I did not think of in the begining of construction and wiring

regards John

[Anonymous]

I'm still working through this.  Since I want to have individual control of my lighting (especially my interior), I have quite a number of wires running from my lights scattered acroos my layout to my Atlas controller switches.  I need to come up with a way of routing them so that they are easily tracable, use up less wire, but still have independent control.

Tom

I actually tried the same thing for my current layout where I have individual switches for say industrial lights, street lights, residential and then signals.  I even colour code the wires for easy trouble shooting later and I also got one of those DC R/C power supply an goes to a PD block and goes to individual switches.  But I tell ya, it's still a nightmare because I light every structure on top of street lights and what not and I still have lights I haven't used yet.  Way too many wires and under the layout just a maze of wires and if I don't look at it for 2 weeks, I seriously don't what is what anymore.  I think I now just by pass all the switches and just use the main on the power supply.

So I don't want to do that on my second layout anymore.  Initially I even solder every joint but at the end, I just twist and use a heat shrink tube.  BTW, I rant surface wires to the edge and then route to PD blocks and then njust try to hide wires later.  That didn't work out too well because too many wires to hide everywhere and some have to go across the entire layout hence I was wondering if drill holes would be easier.  But then that introduced another factor to consider, I am using WS 2" risers this time and then a nother layr of foam base underneath that, that's a lot of space to drill!  I think I am already going to give up on lighting building interiors, too many and too much trouble, but signals and exterior lights still essential of a realistic layout so...

And that brings to another wuestion!  If you do all the pre-wiring first which means the lights have to be installed before the scenic is finished, would that cause any problem?  As far as I know, if I want lights, that would be the chronological order of doing the layout, am I right?

[John Busby]

Hi Iceman_c27

Building lights go in before scenery street lights after then carefully tidy up.

Signals are best made easy to remove as work progresses as these are usually tied into train operations the signals are not finally fixed and scenic treatment of the base done until the risk of breakage because of works is over.

The big secret to knowing what wire goes where and is what colour is to use a std colour code which you have written down IE red black positive and negative for polarity constant situations

points ( switches) black common return yellow with brown reverse brown normal track feed up main blue with white and white with blue. down main purple with grey and grey with purple

signals green with red  red with green and if required yellow with green black common return

Having done that number your switches only odd numbers and put wire markers with that No on them number your signals only even numbers only mark wires No the electrical switches that operate the item the same.

And Most important draw a wiring diagram as you go while the system is new no problem later problems including now where is the wire for that crossover.

Wiring is the single most neglected item that also causes the most problems because its hidden out of sight so any old rubbish will do even mixed up colours through the same cct instead of taking the extra effort to do a tidy well and logically marked job that can be easily sorted down the track when trouble strikes

regards John

 

[emdgp92]

I've fitted most of my buildings with lights...but haven't made any attempt to wire them up yet. Eventually though, I plan on having a power bus, but with one side of the circuit controlled by a switch--in most areas you don't see *all* the lights on at a time, usually just a few. The exceptions are factories and other industries--usually the lights are on constantly.

[jbinkley60]

I'm still working through this.  Since I want to have individual control of my lighting (especially my interior), I have quite a number of wires running from my lights scattered acroos my layout to my Atlas controller switches.  I need to come up with a way of routing them so that they are easily tracable, use up less wire, but still have independent control.

Tom

I actually tried the same thing for my current layout where I have individual switches for say industrial lights, street lights, residential and then signals.  I even colour code the wires for easy trouble shooting later and I also got one of those DC R/C power supply an goes to a PD block and goes to individual switches.  But I tell ya, it's still a nightmare because I light every structure on top of street lights and what not and I still have lights I haven't used yet.  Way too many wires and under the layout just a maze of wires and if I don't look at it for 2 weeks, I seriously don't what is what anymore.  I think I now just by pass all the switches and just use the main on the power supply.

So I don't want to do that on my second layout anymore.  Initially I even solder every joint but at the end, I just twist and use a heat shrink tube.  BTW, I rant surface wires to the edge and then route to PD blocks and then njust try to hide wires later.  That didn't work out too well because too many wires to hide everywhere and some have to go across the entire layout hence I was wondering if drill holes would be easier.  But then that introduced another factor to consider, I am using WS 2" risers this time and then a nother layr of foam base underneath that, that's a lot of space to drill!  I think I am already going to give up on lighting building interiors, too many and too much trouble, but signals and exterior lights still essential of a realistic layout so...

And that brings to another wuestion!  If you do all the pre-wiring first which means the lights have to be installed before the scenic is finished, would that cause any problem?  As far as I know, if I want lights, that would be the chronological order of doing the layout, am I right?

This is why I stuck with 3 buses and used 18 gauge thermostat wire in a  common sheath.  I then tie to 6 conductor terminal strips located about every 4-6 feet.  It keeps the wiring manageable.

I generally do buildings with lights first, then scenery.  For street and yard lights, I generally do the streets and yard first, then the lights and then any final scenery elements (i.e. trees, paint touch ups etc..)

 

 

[gthomp10]

I just checked out your photos.  WOW!  I am WAY impressed!

I have lots of questions to ask you but I'll start with just two.

Where in the world were the pictures of the trail on the side of the sheer canyon (file011MA14090568-0042, etc.) taken?  And I thought the Highline on the Durango & Silverton was impressive!

Your pine trees look fantastic.  They are some of the best I've seen.  Did you make those?  If so, is there a tutorial someplace that you can direct me to?

Regards

Greg

[bogp40]

One thing not mentioned, regardless of the power supply or the voltage of your bulbs, is to run voltages less that that of the bulbs. A 12 volt bulb on a 12 V power supply probably won't be light to max output on a variable source. If the voltage was limited to say 10V max for the 12V bulb these bulbs in your structures will last many years.

Some intricate buildings w/ light baffles may have multiple bulbs, changing them once completed can be a pain.

Many use old DC powerpacks for lighting, If the pack was ever turned up to the max 14-16V, all those 12V bulbs will look like flash bulbs for a few seconds. Mount some sort of stop on the power pack to limit the voltage accordingly.

[jbinkley60]

One thing not mentioned, regardless of the power supply or the voltage of your bulbs, is to run voltages less that that of the bulbs. A 12 volt bulb on a 12 V power supply probably won't be light to max output on a variable source. If the voltage was limited to say 10V max for the 12V bulb these bulbs in your structures will last many years.

Some intricate buildings w/ light baffles may have multiple bulbs, changing them once completed can be a pain.

Many use old DC powerpacks for lighting, If the pack was ever turned up to the max 14-16V, all those 12V bulbs will look like flash bulbs for a few seconds. Mount some sort of stop on the power pack to limit the voltage accordingly.

I use the Minatrionics 16V 30ma bulbs.  They claim a 15,000 hr life.