1960's rivarossi 2-8-8-2 remotor, anybody done this?

[nyc4me]

sitting here looking at my #2197, big flanges and all but I've had it since late 60's.  I'd appreciate hearing from any that have done a remotor job that came out ok.  Thanks in advance. 

[Texas Chief]

Northwest Shortline used to have a motor and gear kit for just that purpose. It relocated the motor to the middle of the boiler. They're can motors and quiet and smooooth!!!

Dick

Texas Chief

[claycts]

sitting here looking at my #2197, big flanges and all but I've had it since late 60's.  I'd appreciate hearing from any that have done a remotor job that came out ok.  Thanks in advance. 

Yes and DON't I think the cost was around $250.00 for all the parts.

This is a picture of what it looks like. More money than what you get when you are done.I also did just a DCC upgrade on one and it was cheaper and runs great. Hardest thing is to get pick-ups on the tender. The old units used a pin type wiper tha pushed against the back of the drivers. I bought a Y3a and a Y6b of todays standards and am happier with them.

My

[nyc4me]

Zactly what I had in mind. Glad we had this talk!  I'm not sure it's worth the big bucks for the remotor job but the dcc conversion is tempting. thanks for the notes Dick, George!

[steamnut]

I re-motored mine about ten years ago,like the photo shows I also put the motor in the boiler between the two gear towers.  My total cost was about $75. This broke down roughly as $30 for a new can motor, $3-$4 for linkage parts, $8 for a third-party backhead casting, $5 for a turned-brass flywheel (I used only one) and $25 for a set of wheels with RP25 flanges - available at the time from IHC when it was the Rivarossi US distributor. So spending big bucks is not necessary. Although the engine does run a bit more smoothly and quieter, it actually ran pretty well before - my biggest reason for the conversion was a cosmetic one, to move the motor out of the cab. But this engine sees little running time these days as I did the conversion prior to the introduction of the LifeLike Heritage model (of which I own two). If you don't want to spring for the Heritage models or the Precision Scale (even more $ than heritage), you might want to consider buying one of the last-run Rivarossis on E-Bay; they have RP25 wheels, cab detail, operating headlight, and an improved semi-can motor mounted centrally in the boiler.

[Virginian]

Yes.  I got a new little can motor that fit right in the cab just like the old one and bolted right up for $20 (already pre painted black was $2 more) on eBay.  Works as well as it ever did.  My back of the driver pick ups work fine, so I haven't messed with them.

[SteamFreak]

I kept the motor in my old one because it's an earlier ball bearing version and relatively smooth, and regeared it with NWSL kits. I tried the kit that gives you a 65% reduction, but I found the the reduction to be too extreme, so when I discovered that they make a 32% reduction kit, I got a pair of those instead. It runs very slow and quiet with the new gearing. The 32% kit is NWSL# 317-6, and the 65% is 301-6.

[nyc4me]

aha, more than one way to do it!  Once again, appreciate the notes. Many thanks!

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

About five years ago, I repaired a group of Rivarossi locomotives.  I obtained the parts I needed from Golf Manor Hobbies in Cincinnati. So if you just want to replace a bad motor they should have one. My old Rivarossi B&O 2-10-2 works like new after replacing with a Rivarossi motor from them at the time. I had a old 2-8-8-2 in the group and it still works just fine.

[Virginian]

Also, I almost forgot, if there any electric RC car racers in your area, you probably have some motor repeairer/rewinders too.  Some of these guys can do an excellent job for around $40.  Be sure to tell them you want it to run real slow, because usually they are going for just the opposite.