So how about some pros and cons of the different types of bench work. T-girder vs L-girder. Going to be a 24 in wide shelf around the walls type. Cant seem to figuer out which to use . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
J.W.
So then since it will be a true "shelf" using the brackets attached to studs will hold the layout.
what about bracing the front edge of the shelf? just for added stability? Build the shelf and legs then run homasote for the base....then pink or blue foam for land contours and cork roadbed and track? Dose that sound right? This HAS to be done right and so it could be taken apart to move.
ChessieFan13 wrote: what about bracing the front edge of the shelf? just for added stability? Build the shelf and legs then run homasote for the base....then pink or blue foam for land contours and cork roadbed and track? Dose that sound right? This HAS to be done right and so it could be taken apart to move.
Homasote for the base ??? No!!!!
Use shelf brackets as suggested above. Then laminate the shelf: at the bottom use very thin plywood, such as door skins, glue to 2" pink or blue foam. If you are handlaying track, use Homabed on top of the foam. Use Woodland Scenics foam risers under the Homabed for grades. If you are not handlaying track, use WS foambed or cork or AMI - what ever your preference.
Make the foam sections a manageable size. For two people, 2 x 8 feet is manageable. For moving, you will need to assemble boxes to put the sections into. I would use 7/16 OSB, with 1x4 framing for the boxes. Glue and screw the OSB to the framing. Glue and screw the bottom, one end and one side together. Glue and screw the top, the other end and side together. Put the layout section inside, screw to the bottom, then screw on the top assembly.
Do not trust the movers to package your layout sections.
I would use L-girder, why, because you will have braces that will support a facia and there will be easy access to the underside of the layout. It does add thickness but I think it would look good, especially if you like the shadowbox look. My layout is deaper so I used large L-giders but I think you could get away with 1x3's on end with 1x2's atop the edge of the 1x3's. All this could be supported by metal brackets, I used wood. I used 1x2 cross braces as you could and the facia is connected to these.
See my WWW link below for some pics, I would have posted pics in the post but for some reason I am not allowed. FRustrating, it always worked in the past.
John
Bracing for what? This is a serious question, clearly, since it is important to you...but you must set the criteria for your layout. Are you intending to use the edge of the layout to grab hold of from time to time? If you expect to have to use it for leverage, or for substantial weight-bearing, then I'm not going to recommend brackets. I would use adjustable legs with diagonal braces, but they can all be built out of 1X4s, ripped down their lengths, and then made into thinner L-girders...at least, that is what I have done, and I can dance on my yard.
HOwever, all that you add must be shaped and fastened, and it must all be dismantled for this move or relocation that seems to be looming somewhere over the horizon for you. Brackets and simple sectional shelves that are carefully scenicked at their seams will be easily dissembled and carried away.
Also, to get more directly to your question about homasote, I would not use it except where it has a purpose. It will just add weight for carrying up and out of the basement if you use it as a layer under foam. Cork or foam roadbed should keep things quiet with the trains, particularly, and this is important...if you use a thin layer of latex caulk under the ties. This holds them in place, but adds another absorptive index for the sound waves generated through the rails and ties over and above the roadbed and whatever that is supported by. It is multiple densities of material that attenuates the sound. Wood by itself, as you are doubltlessly aware, will tend to be very noisy, but so will the foam. Homasote is very good about keeping sound to a minimum, but it is messy stuff, needs to be sealed to keep its wanting to change dimensions under control with swings in humidity...and it ain't light.
Bracing for what? Well......just scared about the weight of the whole section of shelf falling to the floor. We have 3 cats and a 7year old who loves trains too. So I was just wanting something that could withstand the cats, childeren and ME. Not to stand on or use as a grab or nothing I have been told thaat I could break a bulldozer. Guess Im kinda rough on some things and sometimes me and my cousin have " a few" in the shop and want the layout to withstand the occasonial bump. Not going to dance on mine cause that would be silly. A 6ft 300 lb man dancing on a train layout ...........man thats funny!!!! (thats me the 6ft 300lb guy)
Man thats funny !!!!!!!!! I have no rythem either!
Chessiefan13, I did not build my layout to have grab poles on it or I would have beefed it up more. I simply attach my facia to the supports and hands off the layout rules are in order.
My layout is a bit large but if I have to move it there is a predesignated spot to cut two tracks only and the entire layout can easily be moved by removing the screws that hold the L-girders to the brackets. Two people could easily lift each section by the L-girders as I have the running to the ends.
I used 1/2" plywood with the cookie cutter method for subbroadbed and laid the track on cork with caulking. The caulking does help with the sound but I must warn you not to settle for liquid nails or construction adhesive as the dry hard and will amplify the noise.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i250/exceller8/model%20trains/803fba50.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i250/exceller8/model%20trains/02522831.jpg
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i250/exceller8/model%20trains/P1010226.jpg
Heres one with the facia.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i250/exceller8/model%20trains/P1010048.jpg
For bracing you could run a diagonal support from the wall to the front of the benchwork as in the picture. This will help firm up the benchwork and also keep the benchwork level from the fascia back to the wall.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Spidge............Thanks for the photos that puts everything into perspective. Think Ill duplicate your bench work. Cause Ill also need room for storage underneath the layout.
I use a couple methods to support my layout:
The older section used open grid sectional benchwork, with conventional. I used this same benchwork to support four layouts in two different locations. I mounted the fascia to the front rail of the sections.
The newer section uses plywood brackets. You don't want to stand on it, but it will support me when I lien against it. In this case, I laid the foam top right on the brackets. But you could use the brackets to support girders or open grid sections.
*Note....I cut these brackets 3 inches too short. I had carried the bracket to the edge of the foam, and I would have been able to mount the fasica to the end of the bracket. Now I may have to glue it to the edge of the foam.
Nick
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