Hi all,
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I use Kadee magnets in yards and sidings.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Hi CSXFAN,
I use Kadee delayed uncoupling magnets on my spurs where it is hard to reach. On the mainline, where the reach is fairly easy, I use the manual uncoupling approach with a skewer method.
One tip I mentioned in another thread recently for guys in HO and with code 83 track: after you cut the ties out between the track to set your magnet in place, be sure to buy the Kadee tool that holds the magnet at just the right height, relative to the track, while your glue sets. AND, be sure to leave that tool in place for a few days.
The reason I'm suggesting this is because I had set a couple of magnets in place and removed the tool the day after I glued them in place. They uncoupled fine that day but a couple of days later, the cars wouldn't uncouple properly. I discovered that because I had used "Tacky Glue" to set the magnets, it didn't dry completely for a few days and when it did, it drew the magnet down closer to the benchwork and just a tad too low for the uncoupling to work. I like "Tacky Glue" better than Elmer's for a project like this because it is much thicker and I could place a line of glue down the middle of the magnet without it running all over.
Hope this helps.
Mondo
Eriediamond wrote:I prefer magnets my self, but after false uncoupling and such, I go about it in a different way. I use "under track" magnets mounted on a trap door (for lack of better words). This trap door is normally swung down away from the track by the weight of the magnet. A pull string routed by "eye" screws in the frame work under the layout is pulled, swinging the magnet up under the track to do it's job then released. Simple but yet effective with no false uncouplings and no unsightly magnets between the rails and it's cheap, cheap, cheap. Ken
This sounds like a great idea. Can you post some pictures from above and below the benchwork so we can see how you do this? Do you have your track on subroadbed and is the magnet below that? If so, those are some pretty hefty magnets you are using, can you tell us what kind you are using and where you got them? Sorry for all the questions, but this sounds like one of the best ideas I've heard and would like to know how to implement it myself.
FT
Thanks for the input everyone,
I think I will go with electro magnets on all spurs and sidings and just use the skewer method on the main. The kadee electro magnets are a little expensive (for me) so I'm going to make my own. I am thinking of trying the homemade magnets from the January 2000 issue of Model Railroader "The ultimate uncoupler". Has anyone build one of these? Were can I find 50' rolls of magnet wire?
Hi,
I am building a PRR/(NYC) 18' x 21' 2-rail 0-scale layout here in Reims, France. Min. Radius mainline 72", branch 50" - 60" ?? Track code 148 !
I was visiting John Armstrong, 8 years ago, he used a very smart method, a couple of painted thin iron strips glued on the ties, between the rails, at the proper height, so when he put a Kadee magnet on top, it worked perfect! When not needed he left it on a small ironplate mounted on the front of the tabel ! No problems with unwanted uncouplings and allways looking good !!I do not know if it will work in the smaller scales ?
I will be using this and all the other methods, one good thing, John's method,can easily be put in at any time of the layoutbuilding !
Regards and happy 2007,
HUGO the Dane
PS.: In the #41 December 2006 issue of "The Keystone Modeller" on the National part of www.prrths.com , there are some informations and pictures of what will be part of the PRR Harbor in the future !
Eriediamond,
Very interested in details on your method. Type of magnets and where you got them? Do you think they are powerful enough to work through 2-4"s of foam?
I also like the John Armstrong method which may be the easiest.
Thanks, BlueRidge1
BTW, where in Western NC?
Welcome aboard, Hugo and Blueridge1. Good to have you with us.
My two warnings on installing uncouplers:
First, for the between-the-rails Kadees, do NOT mount them according to the Kadee gauge. That leaves them a bit above the rail head. For most equipment it's OK, but a few engines, specifically the P2K S1 switcher, will "run aground" on the magnets. Mount them dead even with the rail heads and they'll still work just fine.
Second, if you're going to install a Kadee electromagnet, do it before you glue down the track. That's not the way I did it, and I discovered that doing it later is a mistake. Still works great once it's in, though.
I'm modeling the PRR Elmira branch in HO and use KD 308 under track magnets. I'm pleased with them after making a few adjustments. I use Atlas code 83 flex and mount the uncouplers under the ties by removing the first layer of plywood to recess the uncoupler, allowing it to fit under the ties. I use Woodland scenics foam roadbed which I cut out to fit the magnet. With this completed, I lay the track. I use a cow magnet (available @ farm stores) on the track to hold the KD magnet in position, super glue the KD to the bottom of the ties and ballast right over it. Be sure to mark where the magnet is as it becomes invisable. I had trouble at first with unwanted uncouplings but cured that by changing to Branchline wheelsets and attaching a small retaining spring on 1 caboose truck axle. The Branchline wheelsets are all metal with brass axles. They roll very free and aren't pulled by the magnet and the retaining spring creates just enough drag to keep the train strung out. No problems, and I don't have to reach into the layout with the chance of damaging scenery.
John
I'm still experimenting with magnet under-layout (as opposed to under-track) uncouplers as I didn't have enough foresight to put the under-track uncouplers in earlier. I purchased a small, powerful magnet from Edmund Scientific and an electrical magnet as well. The non-electric one is about the size of a small matchbox and is powerful enough to cause a reaction to the "gladhands" on my Kadees; through the 1/2" plywood layout base and the cork roadbed; the gladhand on one coupler pulls to the side and will uncouple if the cars are pushed together then pulled (by the locomotive).
I haven't yet figured out how to best make it work, but the idea of a swing "trap door" with the magnet on it is intriguing. I use under-layout automotive choke cables to control my turnouts; the cable handles are mounted on the fascia of the layout. I just might use the same principle to control the "trap door" uncouplers.
JOHN
Brass Hat, Gulf and Pacific Railroad HO/HOn3 (Modelled to represent mid 1960's) Big Bear Lake, CA. For pictures and videos of the layout please see below:
YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/jostaiii?feature=mhee
Photobucket: http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss287/josta1954/
I use Micro Trains uncouplers on my N-Scale RR. They work almost flawlessly and are very easy to install. Installing them and getting the uncoupler pins to the right height above the track is simple if you use their coupler tool.
But I can also understand those who like to manually uncouple since it is one of the most realistic methods. It's just not my thing to be reaching across the scenery using my 0-5-0 switcher, knocking things over, if I don't have to.
Ken
First, all you new Forum posters! Always room for more!
Second, my on the uncoupling issue.
Of the various methods described, the only one I haven't tried is the drop-down under-track magnet (which I WILL try when I find a suitable location.) The only one I really object to is the ham-hook method (don't open the knuckles, just lift the car!)
At this point (very early) in construction of my 'ultimate' (I hope!) layout, I have one uncoupler, a Kadee electromagnet. Located in what will be hidden track, it does what I need it to do in a location inaccessible to skewers and screwdrivers.
On my 26 year old module, I use a variant of the John Armstrong method. Thin plates of tin can steel under the ties hold a removable between the ties magnet. Unfortunately, this doesn't keep the ham hook out of the scenery, since the magnets still have to be placed and removed. In addition, I have a depressed center flat that will lift the magnet and carry it off! Something will have to be done in the future - exactly what is yet to be determined. (The module will be incorporated into the new layout. That is non-negotiable.)
IMHO, as I progress to building scenery close to and over the tracks, reaching into the airspace over the layout will become less and less acceptable, even as the need to uncouple will be increasing. Once properly installed and adjusted, magnetic uncouplers will uncouple magnetically just as reliably as they couple. I intend to make full use of that fact.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with magnetic knuckle couplers)
I use code 100 HO track. With magnets laid on top of the ties, all my Atlas S2 clear but my
Poto 2000 SW9 rounds aground. How do you make the level with the railhead ?
Thanks
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
joecomet wrote: I use code 100 HO track. With magnets laid on top of the ties, all my Atlas S2 clear but my Poto 2000 SW9 rounds aground. How do you make the level with the railhead ? Thanks
Joecomet, what magnets are you using?
I've been playing with the Kadee delayed uncoupling magnets, using Atlas code 100 track, with the magnet sitting directly on the ties. When positioned correctly, all of my cars and locos pass over the magnets without a problem. The delayed uncoupling works great.
However, I have noticed that, unless positioned properly and glued down, that one end (lengthwise) of the magnet tends to ride up slightly on the tie. When this happens, one of my locos bottoms out on the magnet.
-tom
You can find rolls of magnetic wire at most Radio Shack stores.
Happy Shopping
railjockey wrote: You can find rolls of magnetic wire at most Radio Shack stores. Happy Shopping
Thanks for the info, I'll be heading there soon to pick some up.