McHenry Couplers

[leewal]

I have been using Kadee couplers for years on freight cars with great success. Recently I decided to finally replace all the horn hooks on my passenger cars little by little since I have over 100 passenger cars. The McHenry's worked great using the Rivarossi replacements. Then I tried Kadees on a set of metal Mantua cars and forgot the metal couplers would short out due to the metal wheel sets. I bought a package of plastic McHenry couplers roughly the same size as a #5. They went on even easier than the Kadees since I didn't need the brass spring. However, the knuckles would not stay coupled. When the train stopped and slack was let out they would uncouple. The bottom line is they were worse than the horn hooks they replaced. Any suggestions for better operatrion. Does Kadee make a #5 size coupler with a plastic shank to eliminate the shorting out problem?
I really feel I wasted my money with the McHenrys. You can copy the original but you can make it work better!!

[leewal]

I have been using Kadee couplers for years on freight cars with great success. Recently I decided to finally replace all the horn hooks on my passenger cars little by little since I have over 100 passenger cars. The McHenry's worked great using the Rivarossi replacements. Then I tried Kadees on a set of metal Mantua cars and forgot the metal couplers would short out due to the metal wheel sets. I bought a package of plastic McHenry couplers roughly the same size as a #5. They went on even easier than the Kadees since I didn't need the brass spring. However, the knuckles would not stay coupled. When the train stopped and slack was let out they would uncouple. The bottom line is they were worse than the horn hooks they replaced. Any suggestions for better operatrion. Does Kadee make a #5 size coupler with a plastic shank to eliminate the shorting out problem?
I really feel I wasted my money with the McHenrys. You can copy the original but you can make it work better!!

[Anonymous]

Because the couplers wont stay together, I'd guess that you have the older-style Mc Henrys, as they have plastic piece holding the knuckle 'closed' which can easily distorted. Mc Henry's newer design uses a metal coil knuckle spring (like on Kadee couplers) which is far more reliable (this spring is also on Mc Henry's new 'scale' couplers.)
If you prefer Kadee Couplers, the #28 and #38 coupler have the same dimensions as the #5, except are insulated (the only difference between the #28 and #38 are the centering springs and draft gear boxes that are included. The #28 has the same springs as the #5, the #38 contains a spring that is to be used w/ the draft gear boxes that come with 30-series couplers)
I hope this info helps.

Josh Ziegler
Yakima, WA

[Anonymous]

Because the couplers wont stay together, I'd guess that you have the older-style Mc Henrys, as they have plastic piece holding the knuckle 'closed' which can easily distorted. Mc Henry's newer design uses a metal coil knuckle spring (like on Kadee couplers) which is far more reliable (this spring is also on Mc Henry's new 'scale' couplers.)
If you prefer Kadee Couplers, the #28 and #38 coupler have the same dimensions as the #5, except are insulated (the only difference between the #28 and #38 are the centering springs and draft gear boxes that are included. The #28 has the same springs as the #5, the #38 contains a spring that is to be used w/ the draft gear boxes that come with 30-series couplers)
I hope this info helps.

Josh Ziegler
Yakima, WA

[Anonymous]

The # 5 was designed when most cars were 40' & 50' so optional couplers are more functionable.
Some modelers are now using the KD# 46 (longer shank) on their Rivs. If you have HW Rivs they may be equipped with under
size 34" wheels because of the brake shoes.

[Anonymous]

The # 5 was designed when most cars were 40' & 50' so optional couplers are more functionable.
Some modelers are now using the KD# 46 (longer shank) on their Rivs. If you have HW Rivs they may be equipped with under
size 34" wheels because of the brake shoes.

[leewal]

Thanks Josh! Does the #28 have a plastic shank??

Walt

[leewal]

Thanks Josh! Does the #28 have a plastic shank??

Walt

[wp8thsub]

The plastic sliver as a replacement for the Kadee style separate knuckle spring sucks. Eventually the sliver loses any ability to hold the knuckle closed.

All is not lost with most plastic couplers if you want to do a little work. Kadee sells HO knuckle springs as part #622. I have rehabilitated a number of plastic couplers by inserting a small L-shaped piece of brass wire into a hole drilled into the knuckle to retain one end of a Kadee spring. I clip the plastic sliver almost off and use the remainder to retain the other end of the spring. The modified coupler works exactly like a plain Kadee or a spring equipped McHenry.

[wp8thsub]

The plastic sliver as a replacement for the Kadee style separate knuckle spring sucks. Eventually the sliver loses any ability to hold the knuckle closed.

All is not lost with most plastic couplers if you want to do a little work. Kadee sells HO knuckle springs as part #622. I have rehabilitated a number of plastic couplers by inserting a small L-shaped piece of brass wire into a hole drilled into the knuckle to retain one end of a Kadee spring. I clip the plastic sliver almost off and use the remainder to retain the other end of the spring. The modified coupler works exactly like a plain Kadee or a spring equipped McHenry.

[Anonymous]

The Kadee #28 couplers do have plastic shanks. Also, all Kadee 20-series and 30-series couplers have plastic shanks.

Josh Ziegler
Yakima, WA

[Anonymous]

The Kadee #28 couplers do have plastic shanks. Also, all Kadee 20-series and 30-series couplers have plastic shanks.

Josh Ziegler
Yakima, WA

[Anonymous]

I have had more trouble with the McHenry non-couplers than I really care to put up with and am truely amazed at how far I can throw them.

[Anonymous]

I have had more trouble with the McHenry non-couplers than I really care to put up with and am truely amazed at how far I can throw them.

[fuzzybroken]

Anybody still use Intermountain's couplers? I remember breaking off the "sliver" and replacing it with a spare Kadee spring held on with chunks of staples! I also used Kadee's centering spring in addition to the centering leafs on the Intermountain coupler. Worked great after that!!!

-Mark

[fuzzybroken]

Anybody still use Intermountain's couplers? I remember breaking off the "sliver" and replacing it with a spare Kadee spring held on with chunks of staples! I also used Kadee's centering spring in addition to the centering leafs on the Intermountain coupler. Worked great after that!!!

-Mark

[cp1057]

That's funny,

A number of people are complaining about McHenry couplers on passenger equipment. I use them on passenger cars with little problem and on most of my freight cars. The only thing I can think of is that they're running longer trains with more pull than I am. I have found that for short freights ( less than 10 cars) and passenger trains 4 cars or less there have been no problems. My passenger trains also tend to stay coupled for their entire run, no switching involved.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[cp1057]

That's funny,

A number of people are complaining about McHenry couplers on passenger equipment. I use them on passenger cars with little problem and on most of my freight cars. The only thing I can think of is that they're running longer trains with more pull than I am. I have found that for short freights ( less than 10 cars) and passenger trains 4 cars or less there have been no problems. My passenger trains also tend to stay coupled for their entire run, no switching involved.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[CP5415]

I use McHenry's as well. Never had a problem with the metal spring ones. I avoid the plastic tab couplers. They don't last.

Just my 2 cents

Gordon

[CP5415]

I use McHenry's as well. Never had a problem with the metal spring ones. I avoid the plastic tab couplers. They don't last.

Just my 2 cents

Gordon

[R. Vollmar]

I have used McHenry passenger car couplers because they are an easy replacement for NMRA Horn-Hooks. In doing this I found that the coupler tends to sag to the extent of half a coupler height below the standard. The effect seems to be more severe with Concor cars than Rivarossi. When I correct the coupler height with a shim on the front of the truck, I have much less trouble with them uncoupling inadvertantly. The difficulties that still exist seem to occur with trains of 6 to 8 cars so I think there may be a point to comments that the couplers can't handle the loads of trains that long. I also check the rolling characteristics of the cars as many seem to have fairly stiff trucks. If these can be improved then the loads will decrease.

[R. Vollmar]

I have used McHenry passenger car couplers because they are an easy replacement for NMRA Horn-Hooks. In doing this I found that the coupler tends to sag to the extent of half a coupler height below the standard. The effect seems to be more severe with Concor cars than Rivarossi. When I correct the coupler height with a shim on the front of the truck, I have much less trouble with them uncoupling inadvertantly. The difficulties that still exist seem to occur with trains of 6 to 8 cars so I think there may be a point to comments that the couplers can't handle the loads of trains that long. I also check the rolling characteristics of the cars as many seem to have fairly stiff trucks. If these can be improved then the loads will decrease.