turnouts #4 & #6

[pontoonman]

can some please help a "new" hobbiest (one week) decipher some terms.
what is the difference between a number 4 or a number 6 turnouts.
I will need about 10 - 12 for my layout and would also have them motorized.
thanks

Paul

pontoonman

Ontario, Canada

[selector]

I can't help with the motorizing, but a #4 means that the frog angle allows a diversion of 1 unit for every 4 units of linear travel along the axis of the through rails. So, you can tell that it imparts a serious "turning out", and is therefore a sharp curve. A #6 is the same idea, but with considerably less diversion over the same distance. In fact, in order to get the 1 unit of diversion, you must now travel 6 units along the through rail axis. These turnouts are often a good choice, whereas the #4's would be found in tight yards where smaller engines are at work. #6's would be great for a roomier yard where big steam is moving about, and could even work nicely on most layouts on the mains, although not for scale speeds of the typical passenger train. Yes, it would work well for you, and you would not have trains wanting to leave the rails by any means, but for the higher speeds expected along curves above 32" radii, a #8 would be a better choice...often.

[jwmurrayjr]

Crandell's advice sounds real good.

For motorizing you might consider Tortoise machines for reliability and ease of use (mounting, control, powering, etc.). You should be able to find some good info via Google.

[Bob grech]

When it comes to turnout angles, the previous post explained it as well as anyone can. As far as choosing a switch machine. Most newcomers start with the "old reliable" The Atlas Snap Switch. However, upgrading to the newer style slo-motion motors early on allows you to do much more with respect to wiring. The motors (Tortoise) contain two sets of single pole double throw (SPDT) relay switches. These can be used to power your frogs and points to prevent equipment from stalling out. (An important consideration if you use locomotives with shorter wheel base) However, the best part of these motors, besides ease of installation and realiablity, is that they operate in "slow motion" just like the prototype. Because these motors can also be powered with DC voltage, the second relay switch can be used to power switch-throw indicator lights (LED's) on your control panel. This allows you to see in which direction your turnouts are set to.

As a beginner, all this may sound way over your head right now, but trust me it's not. The instructions that come with the Tortoise motor explains what I have discribed much more clearly and are easy to follow. And always remember, you have a wealth of information right here in this forum. From what I have seen so far, it is filled with many talented people who are always willing to help a newcomer to the hobby.

Here is a pic of a control panel having turnout directional lights installed:

[MisterBeasley]

Welcome aboard. I'd suggest doing some serious research before you buy your turnouts. There are many manufacturers to choose from, and each has advantages and disadvantages. As important as choosing your turnouts is choosing your switch machines. There are 3 types - manual, twin-coil, and motor.

Bob has mentioned the Tortoise, which is the most popular motor unit. The Atlas is an example of a twin-coil machine. It's popular because of its price and ease of installation, but, having bought and installed a bunch of these myself, I have discovered that I really dislike the non-prototypical look of these above-ground units. Peco also makes turnouts and twin-coil machines, which mount below the track. They are very reliable.

And then, there are manual throws. Caboose makes a good one of these.