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Removing Decals/Painted Logos

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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Removing Decals/Painted Logos
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 12, 2001 9:20 PM
Looking for some suggestions decals and painted logos etc., hopefully without damaging plastic or the body paint.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 13, 2001 1:24 PM
Check the April edition of Model Railroader magazine --- Workin' on the Railroad column. It discusses removing and changing numbers on locomotives.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 23, 2001 5:26 PM
Frankk: If you are actually trying to remove decals, try Solvaset, made by Hobsco, available from R/R Hobbie stores, or Walthers. Denatured Alcohol will work too! Rubbing the area with a "Q-Tip", is best. But, be very careful to rinse the area, or you will have paint and plastic problems. If the printing is painted or Laser Printed at the factories, you may have to strip the area or whole unit. If stripping the whole unit. Use "Hexol". It's a consentrated disenfectant, smells like "Pine-sol", and is water soluable. In any case, wear protective gloves. Other than Solvaset, the other two, will make your fingers tingle!
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    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 24, 2001 11:59 PM
I usually don't have much success saving the factory paint when trying to remove numbers or logos. In fact, I am usually disappointed with factory paint jobs on the whole (not just having duplicate numbers) and I wi***o get rid of the entire paint scheme. In that case, I soak the body shell in brake fluid for a few hours and then scrub it with an old toothbrush. In most cases, this is very effective and will get all of the paint off, although it is probably not the safest method you can try (the water-soluble disinfectant sounds much safer). With this method, I would recommend using gloves and having plenty of paper towels handy. When the shells are stripped I rinse them off with the garden hose and then scrub them in the bathtub with another old toothbrush and a bit of soap. It is a good idea to dry the shells with clean paper towels right away. I also try to repaint within a few days of stripping so that no dust or fingerprints have time to collect on the bare shell. I know this sounds like a lot of trouble, but when you start painting your own models and master the art of thin but complete coats of paint, those factory paint jobs start to look really thick and unrealistic. I hope this information helps somebody out.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:37 AM
Micro-Mark has some stuff called Easy-Lift-Off that's touted as being able to remove paint and decals from most plastics, metal and wood. It also makes a great ice cream topper.^_^ See page 48 of their early spring 2001 catalog.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 2, 2001 2:08 AM
Frank,

Like Ryan I have had success using the brake fluid method. Do wear gloves and wa***he shell in Dawn dish soap. To strip an entire shell immerse it in a disposable aluminum pan or pie tin. The longer the shell stays in the fluid the easier the paint comes off. Good luck. Gary

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