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QUOTE: Originally posted by dacort I have a Kato NW-2 that I wired much as you described. I removed the contact strips that fit on the frame above the fuel tank and substituted wires that are soldered to the metal parts of the truck frames on both sides. One truck is wired to the decoder, and both trucks are wired to each other. I also went a step further and added some additional brass contact wipers made of thin brass rod that rub on the wheels for more positive contact. Since then I've had far fewer problems with the engine stalling.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
QUOTE: Originally posted by scubaterry When I bought my Kato NW-2 I had the HS tech install the decoder for me due to at that time my lack of experience. Today I began a project of painting various Loco's to NYC colors. Upon taking the NW-2 apart I realized the wiring is differant than I have seen on other loco's. Apparently both halves of the metal weight are isolated and a brass strip rests on each side contacting both trucks by friction alone. That may explain why after a year the loco would not run as reliably as it did when new. SO with that said I am pondering on whether to get rid of the brass strips and solder fine wires to the small brass tip on the trucks. Problem is there is not much surface on the small tab on the trucks. I think if I could figure out how to take the truck apart I could do it. Anyone out there "been there done that" or have any comments before I tackle it? Terry[8D]
QUOTE: Originally posted by scubaterry Jeff why remove the tab on the truck? I figured I would just remove the brass strip altogether and solder a wire to the truck tab. Connecting both trucks on each side together and then to the red/blk decoder wires. Tks for your input. Terry [8D]