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Train lift between decks - latest update
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[quote]QUOTE: <i>Originally posted by robengland</i> <br /><br />Thanks Adrian, we think along similar lines all the way.[/quote]I'm enjoying the deja vu [:D] <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: I plan to have dead zone s at each end of the track on the lift, powered by a sprung switch, so a train can be run into the lift and will automatically stop. Then pushing the button allows you to run it out again. [/quote]I will use sensors (see further down) to tell me where the train is and stop/start it manually. Being a non-DCC layout I prefer to do most of the controlling myself. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: Likewise there needs to be dead zones on the track approaching the lift interlocked to the lift to prevent locos performing a graceful arc.[/quote]I tried a sort of mechanical cat flap that closed the gap once the lift platform had moved. It wasn't too succesful though, I think dead sections of a suitable length are definitely the answer here. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: And I LOVE the smoked perspex idea: gonna steal that one too!! Ooh yeah.[/quote]I haven't priced an 8ft x 2ft piece of perspex yet, it may be prohibitive. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: I agree that detection circuits will be essential to make sure nothing gets cut in half too.[/quote]For this I plan light beam detection at either end that shows a light on the control panel. This way I can see one light come on as the train enters the lift blocking the beam, the light then goes out once the train passes it. As long as the light for the beam at the other end doesn't light, I know the train will be between the two sensors. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: Add to that the motor start and cutoff systems, and control becomes by far the most complex bit of the whole gadget.[/quote]I'm thinking of just having the pistol grip of the drill on a long curly cord (as well as the variable trigger switch and reverse control, it contains the heatsink for the rheostat/resistor). <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: The pistol-grip will be cut off. I'm leaving it there for now until I know exactly how I'm going to attach it to the jack to stop rotation[/quote]There is a picture on our project page showing the drill we modified. <br />A couple of aluminium strips with large cable ties clamping the drill in between. The drill casing is full of motor and gearbox with nowhere to make mounting holes so clamping it from the outside was the only method open to me. <br />The chuck of the drill is simply tightened onto the end of the threaded bar. Presumably you will have to cut off the ring where the jack handle is attached. <br />One thing that I wished I'd found a source for, is the flat roller bearing cage. Like a thick washer with needle rollers in a star pattern. The scissor jack I looked at has one at the handle end of the jack. <br /> <br />Please keep us posted on the progress.
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