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About this isolating thingy
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It doesn't have anything to do with the motor itself, but rather the motor contacts. If the frame is connected to one of the contacts (brushes) then it has to be isolated. I have an old AHM 0 4 0 that had one side of the motor (brush) grounded to the frame. I defeated the connector, and converted it to DCC. It's been running over a year. The motor is still mounted to the frame. You don't have to isolate the motor itself, just the motor connections. Now I know on some older ones sometimes that's hard to do, because there is only one connection on the motor, and the frame makes the other connection. In cases like that, you usually have to end up repowering. <br /> <br />[quote]QUOTE: <i>Originally posted by jfugate</i> <br /><br />Chip: <br /> <br />You won't need a meter to find out. <br /> <br />The motor needs to be insulated from the metal frame and have two wires running to it. <br /> <br />If the motor contacts the metal frame anywhere, then you will need to remove the motor, put down some electrical tape, then mount the motor back in place with plastic screws. <br /> <br />Next you will need to find the two motor terminals and run the orange and gray wires from the decoder to each of the motor terminals. <br /> <br />Finally, you wlll need to connect the black decoder wire to one side of the track power pickup and the red wire to the other side. If you only see one wire inside the loco going to the motor, or you see one motor wire anchored to the frame with a screw, then the frame is being used to transmit power to one side of the motor. <br /> <br />If the frame's "hot", then you can connect either the red or black decoder wire to the frame, and the other wire to the wire(s) coming from the trucks. Also make sure the decoder does not touch the frame anywhere. <br /> <br />Does this make sense? <br />[/quote]
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