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Beginner Track Type Question

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Beginner Track Type Question
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 1:12 PM
Baisically my question is about what variety of track to lay. I've decided on HO scale, but the volume of different types of track sis a bit daunting. Ive bene lookign around thinkign of going with true track by atlas or soemthing of that variety. Is snap track type of thing a good idea? Also whats the disadvantage of going with built in roadbed like that? And lastly, if you start with one type are you limited to it or is mixing of track types easy to do? Likecan you make a small layout with a snaptrack with built in road bed then add more track with flexi-track or somethign liek that. ThaNKS
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Posted by cwclark on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 1:29 PM
there are all kinds of track out there...but over the years, personally, i've found that flex track on cork roadbed is the best way...flex track is sooo forgiving especially when you need to fudge it into that oddball radius that can happen at times...I'd stay away from that track that has the preformed roadbed..like EZ track..(ask spacemouse..he'll tell you all about it)..it's too big and out of proportion...another thing you want to consider is the code or "rail height" of the track..there are 4 different sizes for HO... codes 100, 83, 70, and 55...most modelers run code 100 or code 83 or for the mainline rails code 100 and code 83 in spurs and yards...if you are going to use atlas turnouts, try to use the custom line turnouts and under the table switch machines...snap track turnouts are not that good of a product..the turnout switch is mounted to the side in plain view, (not very prototypical) and they have plastic frogs..the custom line products have metal frogs and are just a better product...iI run a lot of atlas turnouts and track and if i could do it all over again i'd go with strictly code 100 and code 83 atlas track on cork roadbed and put in shinohara and walthers code 83 turnouts...chuck

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Posted by Texas Zepher on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 2:10 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cheswick
Is snap track type of thing a good idea?

"Snap track" is actually a brand name used by Atlas for their sectional pieces. Many companies make sectional track. It can be mixed and matched. Anytime sectional track is used the layout is limited to the different pieces made. That isn't all bad as many different pieces have been made. But if a layout needs something like a 20.5" radius curve - too bad.

With Atlas True-Track I believe it is designed so that you can take the track off of the preformed roadbed. The problem with True-track is that they used their "snap switch" as the primary turnout. Very sharp. I believe the rail on true-track is code 83, so It should mix well with normal Atlas code 83 track if you can make the transistion off the preformed base. Cork roadbed would be about the right height.

QUOTE: Also whats the disadvantage of going with built in roadbed like that?

Two big disadvantages. 1. There are very limited pieces to make the tracks with. Most notably is lack of good turnouts. 2. You get stuck with one brand. I have seen some addapters where the LifeLike "Power Loc" is supposed to transition to other brands but they didn't look real convincing to me. You could always engineer a conversion from anything to anything, but the success would depend on your craftsmanship.

QUOTE: And lastly, if you start with one type are you limited to it or is mixing of track types easy to do?

With the sectional track that doesn't have the built-on roadbed it is easy to mix the various brands. I mix Atlas and Peco all the time. It is also easy to mix snaptrack with flex track. They were intended to be used together.

And yes at a later time you could add an extension with a different type or even size of track. Our club has code 100 (big rail) main lines with code 83 (medium rail) passing sidings, and code 70 and 55 (light rail) industrial spurs. It just depends on how many and how good one is at doing the transistions.

P.S. Peco also makes a code 75 rail. Really nice size but really never caught on here in the US because the turnouts had constant radius departure tracks and looked more European.

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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 3:43 PM
Regardless of the track selected, you should use care and patience in installing it. Each step in the process of subroadbed, roadbed, and track needs to be checked to ensure a smooth flow. Track is especially easy to kink at the joint, but a roadbed joint also needs to be smooth and even. Test as you go and don't be afraid to redo a section. Nothing is worse than poor trackwork - an engine or car with problem can be set aside, but a mainline section with a fault, will derail every train that passes over it.

I have no experience with track/roadbed combos, but I have used sectional track and flex track - both can work fine over cork roadbed. For either, sight with your eye along the track after laying to make sure you have no kinks, dips, humps, etc.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by ARTHILL on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 5:06 PM
Atlas flex layed on woodland scenics foam over either blue foam or plywood is a very easy way to go. I have tried them all over the years including handlaid on individual ties and when I got back to HO this spring this forum convinced me on flex on foam . It turned out just right for me. The ecception is in my staging yard where I put the flex dirrectly on the blue foam with sewing pins. It allows me to adjust as I decide what I want to do with the staging area. I also am a big fan of latex clear caulk to hold everything down.
If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
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Posted by jsutton316 on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 5:58 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cwclark

most modelers run code 100 or code 83 or for the mainline rails code 100 and code 83 in spurs and yards...if you are going to use atlas turnouts, try to use the custom line turnouts and under the table switch machines chuck


Is there a reason for running Code 83 in spurs and yards??? Why not run Code 100(or Code 83) everywhere??????????? I just think make it easier laying track if it was all the same!!!!!

Jason
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Posted by ARTHILL on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 6:11 PM
If you are a real stickler for prototype, the code 83, code 70 and even 50 must be used. If you want your trains to run well stick to 100. I went with all 83 as a compromise. It certainly is easier to use all one size. On a first layout, I would go with code 100 silver in Atlas flex.
If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 9:01 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jsutton316
Is there a reason for running Code 83 in spurs and yards??? Why not run Code 100(or Code 83) everywhere???????????

It looks better. It looks more realistic. Ideally our club would have used code 83 for the main, 75 for passing sidings, and 70 in the yards.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 4, 2006 11:32 PM
There is no reason why you can't run one code on your whole layout. I use all code 83 with peco turnouts. I did have layouts with ez track and true track, but it is true the radius of the turnout, coupled with I had a fair amount of derailments using the prefab track and roadbed. I finally decided to use #6 turnouts everywhere and laid my own track on cork. I have little mechanical/carpentry ability. I still got better results from my handlaid layout than from using the ez track, true track brands. Remeber widest radius you can possibly plan for, and larger turnout numbers give you better results.

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