Z Scale Engine life expectancy

[Anonymous]

I know I'm a minority speaking about z scale, but here goes. I managed to get an ICE bullet train set & a B & O F7 AB set repaired at a marklin facility in Wisconsin recently. I had no sales receipts, but these sets only ran for two weeks and would NOT run any longer. Now, I've just discovered my Pensy AB set won't run either. GEEEZ!! For the money they want for these sets you'd think they would run for years. Has anyone else had problems like this with z scale engines? It's frustrating to say the least!! I've dabbled in all scales and enjoyed it very much - but that z scale stuff is just not worth the money.[xx(]

[railroadyoshi]

Hi there, and welcome.

I have no true expierience with Z, but from what you have said, I don't think I wan't any.
Sorry to hear your loss

However, it seems they can be reliable, judging from an article within the past year...mebbe it was Nov 2004, with a Z layout who's locos ran 7 months for 7 hours for 6 days a week. Thats impressive!

[ddechamp71]

Hi, myself I'm involved in Z scale, and I'm owning 20 or so locos, all from Micro-Trains Lines and AZL (American Z Lines). Some are 10 years old, and I have absolutely no problems of reliability.

The only issue with them is that the maximum voltage input is ranging from 8 to 10 volts, depending on the manufacturer. So one has to be very cautious with the power packs to be used with them. And some models (for example, the wonderful Micro-Trains recently released EMD GP35) MUST avoid pulse power, in order to avoid motor burning.

So for you Rickweber, I should recommand you carry attention to your power pack, and possibly change it.

Hope this helps,

Dominique, stinkin' cheese eater from France

[Anonymous]

My experience with Z scale has taught me that the locos will go on forever, if properly treated. I beleive that the main problem with Z locomotives is stalling due to dirt on the wheels, and on the track. The problem is greatly magnified in Z scale because of the light weight of the locos. If a loco stalls and the power is not cut off immediately, the motor will very quickly burn out. I usually clean all my track and loco wheels before every session. I have not yet found it necessary to replace the brushes or wheel pickups on any of my locos, but these are easily obtained, and mostly easy to replace. Another cause of stalling is uneven track, particularly at rail joints on curves and grades (mostly 2% on my layout). A slight dip in the track on HO may have no effect, but the same amount of dip on Z can be a killer. Another favourite stalling place is the turnout. these need to be scrupulously clean, particularly the flat under-the-wheel-flange contacts on either side of the frog point (I'm referring to Marklin turnouts here). It 's best to clean your loco wheels with a soft non-abrasive material, as I wore the plating off my first loco's wheels, exposing the brass , which picks up muck like a pig's trotter and is harder to remove. Also clean the inside edge of the wheels, as the pick up contacts are very lightly sprung, and the slightest bit of dirt will break electrical continuity. Putting too much oil on your driving wheel gears can also cause stalling, as it will work outwards to the wheel pickups, gathering muck as it goes. I use an artists oilpainting brush, the smallest you can get, with all but around 6 hairs plucked out, dipped into a bottle of light clock oil, to obtain a droplet of oil not much bigger than a pin head, one drop to each gear,about every 20 hours of running time. Well, I honestly don't know if any of the above suggestions will solve your problem, but I hope they help. Any ideas for Z scaler's car sticker ? my idea is " Z scalers do it on 2ft by 4ft boards" !

[Anonymous]

I've heard that Z scale engines run fine until gobbled up by a near-sighted robin. [:D][:D]

Ok, ok, I'll leave quietly. [#wstupid]

[TrainFreak409]

I see that this is an older topic...so...

Rickweber, if you read this again, you wouldn't happen to be from Westminster, MD, would you?

[ddechamp71]

QUOTE: Another cause of stalling is uneven track, particularly at rail joints on curves and grades (mostly 2% on my layout). A slight dip in the track on HO may have no effect, but the same amount of dip on Z can be a killer. Another favourite stalling place is the turnout. these need to be scrupulously clean, particularly the flat under-the-wheel-flange contacts on either side of the frog point (I'm referring to Marklin turnouts here).

Myself, to avoid stalls with my Z scale stuff, I take care with the track work and choice of material I use:

-About the track work, I solder feeder wires every 2 sections of track. As I only use flextrack of course I solder curved section to each other to avoid kinks.

-I prefer to use power-routing turnouts instead of Marklin samples which aren't: even if wiring for power-routing turnouts if heavier, the result is that they are easier to weather (no gaps in contacts due to paint on the points), and there are very less opportunities for stall on them. I use Wright turnouts (http://www.wrightturnouts.com) which are to my eyes very more prototypical than Marklin's (there is not this f&@#in' black box containing the side mechanism on the Wright turnouts - I power mine with Tortoises).

-I prefer American Z Lines and Micro-Trains motive power that is flywheel equipped and sufficiently heavy (2 to 3 Oz) to absorb most of the track dust and power gaps.

Hope this helps,

Dominique

[ddechamp71]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jnkbritz

I've heard that Z scale engines run fine until gobbled up by a near-sighted robin. [:D][:D]

Mmmhh......Will have to take it's time before it's able to swallow the soon to be released (scheduled March) AZL AC12 Cab Forward and her tender[;)].

Dominique