Goo

[novacoach]

Hi
Can anyone tell me a generic name or UK equivalent for Walthers Goo? I am about to build a Bethlehem Car Shops Kit and Goo is suggested in the instructions

Thanks

Chris

[Anonymous]

Goo is a specialized contact cement that comes in a tube. Sort of a rubberized glue that is very flexible. Good luck in finding the equivalent there in jolly ole England!
Will

[Anonymous]

Can't help you with a specific name, but it is a solvent based contact cement (strong smelling!). Instructions say to put glue on both pieces to be joined, and wait until it dries before putting them together. I've had mixed results with Goo, and will use it only when there is no other choice.

I Goo-ed some white metal HO scale figures on my HO scale modules some time ago. When the modules aren't in use, they are boxed together and stored upright in a closet. After a while, all of the Goo-ed down figures would take a list in one direction, gravity was stretching the Goo so they no longer stood upright. Don't do that anymore!

Bob Boudreau

[Dr. John]

You might see if "Pliobond" cement is available in the UK. Very similar properties. I believe it is (or was) produced by Goodyear.

[Anonymous]

1. What's the kit made of? If it's styrene you can just use Mek you won't need goo... if it's something else let me know and I'll ask my adhesives contacts (groan) for an equivalent.

2. can someone post a data sheet... I can use same contacts...

[novacoach]

Thanks for the help so far. It is a plastic kit but the instructions include Goo on list of required tools. Steps are metal so I suppose that is where the goo is required. We have a "contact" adhesive called Evostik that sounds similar from the descriptions so far. I do have a brass sided BCS kit to do and that will definitely require more than Mek!
Thanks

Chris

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't use evostik to bond metal to plastic... too much gooey stuff and not enough stick.

If you can i would suggest using an "interference fit" without adhesive... that is GENTLY pu***he steps into slightly undersize holes... this can be aided by disolving the edges of the hole with a spot of Mek.... practice with similar wire in scarp plastic first!... The idea is to eased the hole then let it harden back round the metal. The other way is to pu***he metal step through and add a touch of glue at the back... any ordinary glue like bostik clear would do this... it isn't really glueing it but providing a blob to stop the metal drawing back out though the hole.

With suitable caution and practice i would tend to use a cyano cryolate superglue. You will need minute amounts Wickes do a 3mg tube... probably eneough for your fleet. Might work for the brass kit... try on some scrap. Remember...don't stick your fingers together and don't scratch your nose with a gluey finger!

[jsoderq]

Goodyear Pliobond and Goo are pretty much identical. However, the solvent in Goo will attack plastic, sometimes years after use. It should not be used on plastic even though recommended. Many older cars had their floors badly warped by Goo used to add the weight.

[cacole]

Goo is a rubbery cement that is supposed to stay pliable, but I never did like it. The kit recommends Goo because Walthers sells Goo under their own brand name and they are just trying to promote their own product. Any other suitable styrene plastic cement should work just fine. There are several German brands of liquid cement for plastics that might be available in England.