Why am I having this problem ?...

[Anonymous]

I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but I own one of the N scale Bachmann 4-8-4 Northerns (AT&SF). However, I'm told that it's one of the good ones because it runs real well-as long as the tracks are clean, the loco is oiled and I give it at least five minutes to warm up at medium speed. My problem is that it dies for a moment when it crosses over the switches, but then continues on without problem until it hits that spot again. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem other than removing the switches ?.

trainluver1

[Anonymous]

It sounds like you need to solder feeder lines to your switches. With an insulated frog, the rails furthest from the points of the switch may be unpowered. I don't know if you are using insulated gap track pins at the switch, you didn't say, but that may be a problem too. By connecting feeder lines to the rails IF the switch is already using gaps should eliminate your problem. I can see problems with an 0-4-0 over switches, but surely not a 4-8-4. If you have a voltmeter, use it on the rails while they are powered. Follow the rails with the probes until you lose your power. This will be where you need the feeder lines. Best of luck.

[bbrant]

You could try to make sure that all track jointers in that section are tight. Should be able to tighten any loose ones with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I had this problem on my HO layout and that fixed it. Hopefully it's that easy for you.

Of course there's always the standard check to make sure the track is clean in that area, especially if you notice other engines sputtering or acting the same way as your 4-8-4.

Good luck and hope that helps.

[Anonymous]

I like the advice guys. I've checked the joiners and they're okay. I've also made sure the tracks are clean. I may have to install the feeder lines as Christov recommended. None of my other engines has this problem, just the 4-8-4...

trainluver1

[cheese3]

this topic came at a good time, I have also been having problems at a switch except with a 0-4-0. I think I am also goint to have to put in some feeder wires.

[cacole]

What brand of switch is it? Atlas HO scale switches are notorious for having loose rivets holding the point rails in place that can work loose and cause intermittent electrical problems. Changing from Atlas to Peco will solve this problem.

[bbrant]

Don't know if it will help but I just thought of this. Is there any way you could add a little more weight to the engine? Perhaps the wheels are somehow losing contact going through the turnout.

Like I said, I don't know if it'll make a difference but I could be worth a try.

Brian

[Anonymous]

A real quick fix to test what the problem is, is to dab nail polish on the frog to test if it is the problem. The nail polish will wear off over time. I'll got this quick fix from Mr. Fugate (hope I spelled his name correctly) and it works very well. Make sure the nail polish is dry before running your loco over it (should only take a few minuites.

[howmus]

trainluver1, I think your problem is 2 fold. 1. Since the frog is not powered, when the loco goes over the frog it may lose electrical contact if the frog is slightly higher than the rest of the switch. and 2. the 4-8-4 bachmann n scale locos are the "standard" quality which means it most likely does not have all wheel pick up (I tryed to find out at the Bachmann siite but the info was not listed). So..... when the loco crosses the frog, it breaks contact for just long enough to hang up and quit. Your options are to power the frog which can be quite easy if you are using a switch machine such as the Tortoise which has switches built in or somewhat difficult if not. Or... you can upgrade the loco with all wheel power pickup. Again, not the easiest thing to accomplish. The only other option would be to switch to peco or another brand of switch that powers the frog. Have fun!

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys. There's a number of good ideas here that you've given me. The turnouts are Atlas, but I think the biggest problem is the "Bachmann engine". Oh well. That's what I get for trying to save a few dollars. Live and learn...

trainluver1

[Big_Boy_4005]

Actually, in N scale the problem can be worse than it is in HO. Serious N scalers like the Peco switches best.

My guess is that the Bachmann engine does not have electrical pickup on all of it's wheels. This makes power in turnouts all the more important for smooth running.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Actually, in N scale the problem can be worse than it is in HO. Serious N scalers like the Peco switches best.

My guess is that the Bachmann engine does not have electrical pickup on all of it's wheels. This makes power in turnouts all the more important for smooth running.

No, the engine doesn't have pickup on all of it's wheels, and is the only engine I have that acts like that-the rotten piece of s--t!...

I may just try replacing the switches as you and others have recommended and see if that fixes the problem. I like using this particular engine to pull both freight and passenger service of the 1940s and 50s.

Thanks Big_Boy_4005.

trainluver1

[bogp40]

If this is the only loco that stalls, you might consider which is more work- replace the turnout or add additional pickup to the engine/ tender. Don't know if the track is ballasted/ scenicked, your choice of which is easier.
Bob K.

[Don Gibson]

trainluver:

You have probably discovered your problem is two-fold.
1. your N switches have plastic frog's
2. your 4-8-4 does not have all of it's wheels picking up power.

When that engine crosses a dead piece of track (the frog it stall's.

THE SOLUTION is to buy a better quaility 4-8-4, live frog (power routing) turnout's, or push by hand across your gap's.

IF you're NOT using DCC, find some solid frog turnout's. They'll cost $20

http://www.railwayeng.com/

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp

If this is the only loco that stalls, you might consider which is more work- replace the turnout or add additional pickup to the engine/ tender. Don't know if the track is ballasted/ scenicked, your choice of which is easier.
Bob K.

Okay guys. Let's start talking about adding pickup to the engine/tender...

First of all, if you're familiar with the 4-8-4 tender, you already know that it's not set up for contacts, so I'm going to have to make them from scratch. Any suggestions on that ?.

Thanks in advance.

trainluver1

[bogp40]

[

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp

[

Okay guys. Let's start talking about adding pickup to the engine/tender...

First of all, if you're familiar with the 4-8-4 tender, you already know that it's not set up for contacts, so I'm going to have to make them from scratch. Any suggestions on that ?.

Thanks in advance.

trainluver1