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Track dirt...

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Track dirt...
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 16, 2005 5:45 PM
Not to sound like a total idiot, but can anyone out there tell me what causes the grime that builds up on tracks ?...

trainluver1
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Posted by AggroJones on Monday, May 16, 2005 5:57 PM
The black crud that build up consitst of...

metal fragments
plastic particles
oil
human skin
dirt
water
lint

"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"

EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION

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Posted by jfugate on Monday, May 16, 2005 6:14 PM
I remember reading an analysis done on black track gunk several years ago by a chemist who was also a modeler. He found the residue consisted of dust, dirt, organic oils (from plastics and lubricants), and metal oxides.

Dust and dirt you can control only so much, because its a fact of life. Bulding your layout in a clean indoor environment can limit this problem somewhat.

Dirt can also come from scenery work, benchwork construction, and so on. If you can limit this, then you will solve most of your dirt problem.

The organics come mostly from engine lubricants and plastic wheelsets. If you replace your plastic wheelsets with metal ones, you will see a noticeable drop in track gunk. Also don't over lubricate your locos ... a little goes a long way. Most commercial locos are overlubricated, so the best thing to do here is disassemble the loco, clean all gears and associated moving parts, then relubricate very lightly.

As to metal oxides, don't use brass track. Nickel silver oxide is conductive, although less so than bare nickel silver.

Hope that answers your question.

Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 16, 2005 7:16 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

I remember reading an analysis done on black track gunk several years ago by a chemist who was also a modeler. He found the residue consisted of dust, dirt, organic oils (from plastics and lubricants), and metal oxides.




Perhaps he is Charlie Miller, a retired chemist and a customer of Tony's Train Exchange.
He has a five page thesis about track cleaning.
Bottom line, we all have it, "Oxdidative degradation", sometimes to thin to see, but thick enough to inhibit electrical contact.

Now you need to know, how to miminize/control it, what type of cleaners, application and do track cleaning cars work.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 16, 2005 11:32 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by locomotive3

QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

I remember reading an analysis done on black track gunk several years ago by a chemist who was also a modeler. He found the residue consisted of dust, dirt, organic oils (from plastics and lubricants), and metal oxides.




Perhaps he is Charlie Miller, a retired chemist and a customer of Tony's Train Exchange.
He has a five page thesis about track cleaning.
Bottom line, we all have it, "Oxdidative degradation", sometimes to thin to see, but thick enough to inhibit electrical contact.

Now you need to know, how to miminize/control it, what type of cleaners, application and do track cleaning cars work.


Okay. Now please explain the best method of track cleaning. Personally, I've always used paint thinner and large erasers followed by paper towels wrapped around my finger. Track cleaning cars are new to me.

trainluver1
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 6:38 AM
There's a few different cleaners & applications that can be utilized to accompli***his task.
The cheapest, Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, denature alcohol, paint thinner, nail polish remover, lacquer thinner
and the very pricey Act-6006 by Aero Loco works.
Then you have the Brite boy and MAAS, upper grade cleaning cars by www.centerlineproducts.com
and http://www.tonystrains.com/gallery/cmx_section.htm and click on cmx-HO picture tour.

I owned both of the above, sold them both and started to use the the Metal/Polish Cleaner, MAAS that is a three way product; removes oxidation, polishes and delays subsequent degradidation.

Cleaning your loco wheels is equally important.
http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/001/356wbrgi.asp
I also use the MAAS for this application.
The MAAS is a two ounce paste tube for $3.50 at Ace, Homedepot etc in your household cleaning
materials Dept.
THANK YOU MR, January 2003.
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Posted by FCnota on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 11:08 AM
I've had very good results using a product called "GOOF OFF" and "GOO GONE". Both can be found in the paint section of HomeDepot, Menards, and Lowes. I've used it both on a rag and a track cleaning car, both on loco wheels and track. Just wipe it on and forget it. I clean my track about once every two weeks with no damage to the track or locos.
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 12:14 PM
Another vote for Goof Off. Got me out of a jam when I oversprayed Dull-Coat on my 0-6-0's gear and wheels. For all of these producsts, and I include acetone as a very effective cleanser, like Brylcream of old, "a li'l dab'll do ya." Less is more, so a small container will last a loooong time.
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Posted by jfugate on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 7:06 PM
Locomotive3:

Could be Mr. Miller was the chemist I'm thinking of. He makes the point that you should prefer cleaners that evaporate and don't leave any kind of a residue. Various solvents like alcohol, nail polish remover, and lacquer thinner fall in this category.

Things like GOO GONE and GOOF OFF are not solvents alone, so they will leave a residue. This means that over time they could cause the track to get dirty quicker.

I'm using a CMX car from Tony's with 99% isopropyl alcohol, followed by a car that has a CMX pad added to it (you can get just the pads and pad mount separately), and running dry to pick up any residue the first car with the acohol may have left.

Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 17, 2005 7:18 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate

Locomotive3:

Could be Mr. Miller was the chemist I'm thinking of. He makes the point that you should prefer cleaners that evaporate and don't leave any kind of a residue. Various solvents like alcohol, nail polish remover, and lacquer thinner fall in this category.

Things like GOO GONE and GOOF OFF are not solvents alone, so they will leave a residue. This means that over time they could cause the track to get dirty quicker.

I'm using a CMX car from Tony's with 99% isopropyl alcohol, followed by a car that has a CMX pad added to it (you can get just the pads and pad mount separately), and running dry to pick up any residue the first car with the acohol may have left.


You are correct about Mr.Miller.

IMO you are 100% correct in your cleaning application. Tony's clean machine is an excellent track cleaning car. I believe it now sells for $85.00 to $90.00. The neat things about it are; the weight, the reservior , the liquid flow control valve and it looks like a tanker.
Another plus, that's what is used at the Chgo Museum of Science & Industry.

My layout isn't that large to justify it but I wanted the very best.
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Posted by cmrproducts on Wednesday, May 18, 2005 6:37 AM
This track-cleaning question comes up all the time. And there are so many ways to do track CLEANING.

But I just got tired of cleaning my track. IS cleaning track more fun that running trains? It seems so as everyone has his or her method.

But why do we have to keep cleaning the track? It obviously doesn’t work, as YOU keep having to do it over and over. WHY?

Wouldn’t it be better if you eliminated the problem and NOT have to clean track again!

Why are there so many different ways of cleaning track? Because they don’t work!

The trains won’t stay running smooth for long and you are back to CLEANING the track again, Right?

I finally got tired of cleaning 2600 feet of track as it took the better part of a day to do. I am a model railroader not a cleaning fanatic. If I want to do cleaning I can go upstairs and dust the house (the wife would love it!) and I do, so going down to the basement is the last place I want to be and have to clean track. I just want to run trains!

So I finally tried the metal polish on my rails. It STOPPED having to clean the rails period!

Yes all of your other ways work but you keep doing them over and over. I DON’T!

I just had OPTUD 6 (OP Till U Drop) 2 weeks ago and had 50 operators in for three 4-hour sessions! That’s 12 hours of running trains. And Spacemouse was there. And I did not clean the track before the session. In fact I hadn’t cleaned the track since the last OPTUD back in July of 2004. And I really don’t remember if I cleaned it then! It has been so long since I cleaned anything other than the loco wheels.

So what am I trying to tell you is! Use the metal polish any type and it stops the track cleaning - period!

Unless that is the only reason you have for running your trains (to use that expensive track cleaning car)!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

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