Help need coupler repaired on old tyco passenger car

[rtraincollector]

I have an old tyco passenger car I believe anyway its riveted everything the trucks and couplers anybody can help fix will ship

[Don Gibson]

I think most of those on this forum would fit into the 'do-it-yourself' category.
Maybe the MR 'Classical Toy Train's Forum ' would be better for posting.

Mizell's Train's in Westminster/ Denver CO does repair work on old cars. He could tell you if your TYCO Equipment is worth fixing.

[mcouvillion]

traincollector,

I have a bunch of Tyco/Mantua New Haven passenger cars from the early 1960s that I converted to Kadee #4 couplers. The procedure involves removing the small brass rivet that holds the hornhook and cover in place, saving the cover. You will need to go to an eyeglass repair place to get some small eyeglass screws (the kind that hold the earpieces to the lenses at the hinge). Take one of your cars (or just a truck) and the cover plate and get a screw that is long enough for several of the threads to stick through when the cover is in place. You may have to expand the holes in the cover and coupler pocket a little bit for the screw, but try to get screws small enough to prevent having to do that. You will probably need three hands to assemble the couplers in the pockets, so expect a little frustration until you get the first one or two done.

First, pre-fit the screw and the coupler box/cover assembly to make sure everything fits. It should be snug with little play. You should have 1/16" or a tiny bit more of the screw extending out of the bottom of the assembly. I used solder on the threads to hold the screw in place. If you can find a nut to fit these tiny screws, by all means get them.

The Kadee #4 has a rectangular opening in its shank that takes a small spring and tiny metal rod in the center of the spring to give the slack action to the coupler. After test fitting the screw and coupler box assembly, assemble the #4 coupler in the box. You will have to insert the screw first (so that when assembled, the head of the screw is on the top of the coupler box), then the coupler, then, holding the coupler and box steady, insert the spring and its internal rod in the open area of the rectangle where the screw is. (This is where you need at least three hands!) Once everything is aligned - and hasn't jumped out into oblivion! - place the coupler box cover in place to hold it all together. Now, holding the assembly together tightly, heat the threaded end of the screw with your soldering iron (a good quality pencil iron), and deposit a small bead of solder in the threads to hold it all together. Pat yourself on the back, that wasn't easy. Now do the other end of the car!

I did a bunch of Tyco/Mantua engines and passenger cars this way and have never had a problem with any of them. To disassemble, reheat the solder and pull it all apart.

I hope this helps. Good Luck.

Mark C.

[rtraincollector]

Thanks that seems to be an answer I'm not use to working on this small of trains I normally collect O gauge and work on those lol.

[jrbarney]

Rtraincollector,
This package might help you with the suggested fix:
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page164.htm
You can also order screws, nuts, etc. at the Kadee Web site in case your LHS doesn't stock them. Check out Kadee's conversion pages, too.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543