metal wheels to replace plastic wheels

[clif_nmra]

I would like to replace my plastic wheels with metal wheels.

So How do I know which are metal and which are not?
First, magnets don't work on non-magnetic wheels.
Second, checking current does not work since some are coated.


So how do I know, especially for older freight cars?

[cacole]

You can usually tell just by looking at the axle -- if it's silver or brass colored, you have plastic wheels. Most metal wheelsets have blackened metal axles or the axles are the same color as the wheels. Another clue is to check the wheels themselves -- if you have metal wheels, at least one of them will have a small amount of black plastic insulation between the wheel and axle that is usually visible on the inside edge of the wheel, and that will make one side appear different. Plastic wheels will have no difference in appearance between the two wheels.

And as a last resort if you still can't tell the difference, remove one of the axles and drop the wheels onto a table top -- you should be able to tell from the sound of the wheels hitting the table whether or not they are metal.

[clif_nmra]

Thanks...those were good suggestions.

Someone in our club had said just scrape a little of the paint coating off to tell. But I don't think I want to send my life scraping paint and repainting if the wheel was metal.

[gvdobler]

What if you put a hot soldering iron on the wheel?

If it is plastic, it will melt but your going to replace it anyway.

If it is metal no harm.

[rrinker]

Ever see in the movies how they bite down ona coin to see if it's real?

Works for wheels too. Not so hard you break a tooth, just a little tap.

Also, if you haven't been handling them, a metal wheel will feel cool to the touch, at least at first.

And just roll them on the track - it's fairly obvious from the difference in sound which are metal and which are plastic.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I prefer plastic wheels myself.

trainluver1

[IRONROOSTER]

You should be able to tell by tapping your fingernail on them. Get a known plastic and a known metal one to see the difference.
Checking the wheelsets for an insulated end as cacole suggests is a good habit to get into so that if you use metal trucks you can make sure that both insulated wheels are on the same side of the truck.
BTW - I know it was meant in jest but don't use a soldering iron you can melt the insulation.
Enjoy
Paul

[cwclark]

you can't go wrong installing metal wheels,..they cut down on derailments, they make the rolling stock run smoother, and they make that clickity clack sound as the real trains do...I like atlas, intermountain, and kadee metal wheel sets....Chuck

[gmcrail]

QUOTE: Originally posted by clif_nmra

I would like to replace my plastic wheels with metal wheels.

So How do I know which are metal and which are not?
First, magnets don't work on non-magnetic wheels.
Second, checking current does not work since some are coated.

So how do I know, especially for older freight cars?

Sound is the easiest, as has been pointed out. Axle color doesn't always work, since there are metal wheelsets out there that have metal axles and metal wheels. Be sure if using metal wheelsets with metal axles that if you put the wheelsets in metal sideframes you must be careful that both insulated wheels are on the same side of the truck.

I've recently been hooked on the Reboxx "Semi-Scale" wheelsets. The wheels are only .088 inches wide as opposed to the more usual .110 inches. They retain the RP-25 flange contour, and will operate flawlessly on track laid to NMRA standards. It's amazing what a difference it makes in the realism of the car!

Gary

[Anonymous]

You will also be able to run longer trains since metal wheels increase the free rolling ability(less friction).
CAUTION: Be painfully aware that metal wheels(axles) are all not created equal since the model car manufacturers do not use the same truck. Some examples, P2K 1.008, IM 1.013, KD 1.018.
So it could be a hit or miss thing as sometimes the axles fit the side frame & sometimes they don't.
Reboxx makes 40 different axle lengths. Axle end profiles also vary, round, shouldered and pointed.
Some modelers also recondition the truck by reaming out the journal pocket with the Truck turner,www.micromark.com and type in product #82838 in the "By item number". Click on description for an exploded view.

[TBat55]

metal weighs more than plastic

[Anonymous]

I have just re-wheeled my OO Bachmann coaches with Hornby wheelsets - beautiful realistic sound and superb running - but the best part is the lack of gunk build up which is so characteristic of plastic wheels no matter how smooth they seem to run.
Hattons in the UK sell these sets at a very competitive price (no Value Added Tax for o'seas purchasers) [:D] but they are OO scale - 4mm/foot

[Don Gibson]

Assume that rolling stock wheels are plastic - and black - on the cheaper cars.
The more expensive cars - such as assembled Inter mountain - have metal wheels.
Medium priced cars - if metal - tend to be shiny, and black if they're plastic.


Absoute? No. It's Economic's.

[Anonymous]

I have been very pleased with the Life Like Proto 33" wheels. They perform great and can be purchased with either a plain or designed back. They also sell 36" wheels too.

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by clif_nmra

I would like to replace my plastic wheels with metal wheels.

I have no answer for your question but a Rabbit trail, Just wondering why you want metal wheels?

Our club decided to replace all our plastic wheel sets with metal. The thought was that it would keep the track cleaner. Sounded good at the time. BTW it didn't help the track dirt issue at all.

But we had all sorts of fun finding out that every manufacturer makes axles a different length. Our first attempt was to buy Proto 2000 wheel sets. We put them into Athearn frames. We started having coupling problems and then realized the Proto 2000 axles were too short and the cars were slopping back and forth moving the coupler from side to side as much as 1/8". Had to go to Reboxx.

Then there is the noise. The metal wheels have increased the noise level in the club room significantly.

Then there are the short circuits. The metal wheels find many more places were turnout points, or frog gaps, or crossing diamonds are just close enough that the wheel can fill the gap and complete the circuit.

Looking back, considering the expense in both money and time. We wouldn't do it again.

[Don Gibson]

Texas Zephyr and clif-nmra:

Be advised there is only ONE axle length and wheel specification that meet's NMRA.. NMRA is a recommended (read voluntary) standard. Anyone purchashing wheels, axle's, or truck's, made offshore will not get NMRA dimension's without the IMPORTER demandng it. - One of the priveleges of paying Chinese prices.

AHM, IHC, and Rivarossi have been flaunting this for years.

MY SOLUTION:

Jaybee make both 33" and 36" wheels with NMRA and NEM spec's. They can be ordered through Walthers. I keep a pkg of both in stock. When one doesn't fit, the other does.

[AntonioFP45]

Interesting post, from Texas Zephyr.

First time I've ever heard of "coupling problems" associated with P2K wheels. I'll be checking out JayBee wheels anyway.

I would never recommend plastic wheels.
(1) The grimy deposit left on the track is quite noticeable.
(2) IMHO, cars with the heavier metal wheels do track better.
(3) The clickety-clacking of metal wheels add to the realism.

[selector]

My Proto 2000 wheels make my little ore cars behave better at turnouts (of course, filing the points didn't hurt, either.) Also, the package I bought were all in accordance to NMRA guage tolerances, but the plastic wheels that came with the cars were too narrow by almost 1/32". I like the shiny flats on the wheel faces and flanges- more prototypical. Yeah, they're noisier, but, I'll settle for that AND better performance.

[Anonymous]

Bilby2K,
I used the Bachmann Branchline Turned Coach Wheels (part no. 36-033) for my OO Bachmann Coaches. They work great. But I'd also like to know the equivalent Hornby part no.
Thanks,
Mike

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

I would never recommend plastic wheels.
(1) The grimy deposit left on the track is quite noticeable.

We still have the grimy deposit with metal wheels.

QUOTE:
(2) IMHO, cars with the heavier metal wheels do track better.

Agree completely, really helps get the weight up on empty gondolas, flats, and open hopper cars that are normally anemic weight wise.

QUOTE:
(3) The clickety-clacking of metal wheels add to the realism.

Being picky here but to me the clickly-clack of tiny wheels on tiny gaps isn't the same as the kachunk - kachunk of a real train. The lack of depth of the sound enhances the toylike quality. Sort of like a mesquito pretending to sound like a Harley.