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Track cleaning
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[quote]QUOTE: <i>Originally posted by TurboOne</i> <br /><br />Thanks dimastep for all the info. If my LHS had been nicer about my "bad" brass track, I would have felt better. I have switched about half of my layout to nickel silver, just deciding when to change my brass turnouts. Your way of frustration will save us returning newbies a lot of headaches.... <br /> <br />Thanks <br /> <br />Tim <br />[/quote] <br /> <br />I've actually been thinking to create a simple webpage describing all the problems and solutions I've encountered. Derailments, couplers, locomotives, lubrication, motors, turnouts, trucks, wheels... You name it, I've wasted time and money finding out what's best. <br />Too bad many people have to go through the same stuff as I did. <br /> <br />On topic - I actually have brass switches from Atlas as I didn't want to throw them out. I have 3 on my main lines and turns out I don't have problems with them. I guess they aren't long enough to cause complete loss of contact. Also the big difference in contact makes engine weight. The heavier the engine - the better contact is. <br />As for nickel-silver oxidizing - the oxide is still a conductor. <br /> <br />One other tip I can give you. Since you can't be 100% sure your railjoiners are all tight you can drop power wires to more places on the circle this way is one joiner is faulty then no problem, as adjacent sections are still powered. <br />That's what I did, I have concentric circles on the layout and I connected adjacent rails every 3 feet or so.
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