What Couplers to use?

[Anonymous]

I've noticed that there's quite a difference in opinon on which couplers (HO scale in particular) that are favorable for use. I run long intermodal stacktrains or autorack trains, and find that the only couplers I don't have de-coupling problems with are the old-style (non-knuckle) couplers.

Because of their length (60 to 90ft), and swing, these cars just seem to hate Bachmann E-Z mate or other knuckle-style couplers. It's been a real pain for me, because not only are the obsolete couplers getting harder to find, I am constantly mixing and matching couplers thru different model manufacturers. Plus, the old couplers are obviously not prototypically correct.

Do any of you have a favorite brand/type of coupler that you retrofit all your rolling stock with? They need to be tough enough for consists of 30-50 cars behind 3 or 4 powered locos.

Thank you!

[rrinker]

I don;t know about modern era (I model the mid-50's), but after trying cars and locos with EZ Mate, AccuMate, Proto2000, and Kadee couplers, I've switched or anm switchign everythign to Kadee. They just plain work better than the knockoffs. The two-piece Accumates are particular bad. Kadees tend to fit the pockets better (less slop) and they just work much more reliably, with both magnetic uncoupling and when using a skewer.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html
www.kadee.com/conv/list.htm
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page44.htm
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page160.htm

[Anonymous]

Kadee's are definitely the way to go - I have a mix of Athearn double-stack cars (2 5-unit articulated ones and a 3-unit drawbar set) that all use #5s and I've not had any uncoupling problems. They're more robust and reliable than other brands and also look more realistic (they have an "oily" appearence compared to the "brown plastic" of the E Z Mates). The secrets to making them work reliably are level trackwork (bumps can uncouple them) and getting the coupler height correct - Kadee's height gauge is invaluable for this. Hope this helps!

[Anonymous]

Thank you! Comments very helpful. Ditto for the links.

[Leon Silverman]

Two possible solutions: 1.Switch to long shank couplers and, 2) use transition curves.
I placed my Branchline Heavyweight Pullman cars on 35-1/2" radius EZ-track sections and noticed that the couplers rode outside the outer rail of the track. A train of these cars will not stay together without a lot of coupler swing or gentle transitions into the curves.