DCC READY MY A

[Anonymous]

Just like to say a few words, for the benifit of the Newbies, about manufacturers who say their locomotive are DCC ready. Before you buy a locomotive, I suggest finding installation instructions and notes from some popular sites like Digitrax and Tony's Train Exchange or a search on the internet. If it looks too difficult for you, have it installed.
Sometimes, but not often, you find out it's not a simple "Plug-N-Play" as they say. I found that out there's not enough room for the plug on the recomended decoder when installing a decoder in a P2K Alco S1. The shell wouldn't fit properly because of the plug. No big deal, I just hard wire the decoder in (wired without a plug). Also for the same loco, I read installation notes on a web site that says you should insulate the bottom power pick up lug from the frame. Should the truck hit the frame in a derailment, it could cause a short and burn up the decoder.

Has anyone else run into the same situation?

[SpaceMouse]

I have an S1 and I went through the installation you described. It was my first install, first use of a soldering iron and I was able to do it in about 30 minutes. However, I got Tony at Tony's Train exchange to recommend a decoder. It was decoder for an n-scale and it fit with no problems. The thing you forgot to mention is that you have to either replace the light bulbs or wire in resistors.

That does not excuse the fact that they screwed up in their design. It was intended to be DCC plug and play, but the problem with hitting the was makes the isolation of the motor necessary.

rrinker has a phot essay on how to make the needed adjustments on the S1

[tstage]

Gary,

Yep, that's one of the ones. I knew about the issues of the P2K S1 from Tony's web site. You have to isolate the motor from the frame or your decoder will go "poof". It's not a real difficult job to accomplish. You just need to be comfortable with a little soldering.

Gary, Randy Rinker has a nice pictogram on his web site, showing you how to both isolate the motor and install the decoder into the S1. Here's the direct link: http://community.webshots.com/album/163958178NgaXTy

While you're at it, replace the 1.5v headlight with a 3mm LED. The LED dramatically gives the headlight a much more prototypical look. You'll need to solder in a 750 ohm resistor inline to make it work properly. (Again, not that difficult to do. Heat shrink will also help focus the light through the lense.) The headlight on my S1 now really lights up the layout.

Tom

[rrinker]

They aren't the only ones. I think that's a misprint on the Digitrax site, no way would a DH163PS fit in there, you need a smaller decoder. The DZ143 would be good, or a TCS M1.
The older P2K SD7 has a socket - but if you plug a decoder in there, the lights iwll be really dim. I repalced the lights with LEDs and uses a TCS T1.
Those new MDC Critters - if you plug a decoder int here, when you try to turn the lightson you will blow the function outputs of your decoder. The diodes for lighting are installed backwards. TCS's web site shows how to fix that.
Abotu the only thing I've found so far to be truly plug and play DCC-wise are my Proto2000 GP-7's. A DH163L0 goes right in, no bulb changes, and it truly take longer to take the shell off than it does to put the decoder in. I've taken to just hard-wiring most anything else just because then i KNOW it will be right - plus decoders with plain wires are cheaper than ones with the plugs on them.

--Randy

P.S. My photo series shows putting a DH163L0 in that tiny S1. I had to do some filing to make that work, but I didn't have to change the bulbs that way, and I had the extra decoder. I would NOT do that again if I ever get another S1, I'd switch to LEDs and us a TCS M1 or something similar. The new orange wire though, that part is important.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input everyone! I got the idea to bring the subject up after writing to a number of people just starting out in the last few weeks. This Forum has a enormus wealth of experienced modelers. It's a fantastic hobby and I'd hate to see anyone get so frustrated that they quit.
Thanks Chip and Tom for mentioning the lights. I did replace them with 1.5 volt bulbs and resistors.
I did the install about a year ago for a friend in India. That is where it's at now. I sent him another P2K S1today. This time he is going to install it himself and I'm passing on the link to Randy's web site. That's very cool of you to do that Randy.

[grayfox1119]

I don't know if you guys have ever been to Tony's in Esssex Junction in Northern Vermont, but I visited his business last October. He has his techs building and checking new items as they arrive, and of course all the customer orders. They were very helpful, and Tony's is a great place to get help with your DCC issues both before and after the fact. There are many little hidden "gotchas" that can really frustrate the average modeler.......Tony's can really help eleviate headachs.