Beginner Detailing

[UPJohn]

I would like some tips on detailing and weathering Ho diesels and freight cars. I do have some experience working with models but any tips would be appreciated. I always have problems with too much glue.

[orsonroy]

The simplest thing to do is to just start building highly detailed kits, and working through the issues you'll run into with them. Start by building a few of the Branchline or Red Caboose boxcars. Then move sideways to one of the new Walthers cars, to learn how to add metal handrails. Then move to something more complicated, like a Tichy plastic & metal kit. Finally, tackle a one-piece body resin boxcar. Once you've become comfortable with each of these steps, it's generally no big deal to start the BIG projects: kitbashing cars to create an otherwise unattainable car, resin flat kits and finally, scratchbuilding your own cars.

As for the glue thing, less is always more. You can always add more glue if you have to, but it's pretty hard to remove glue once it's on and dry.

[Anonymous]

Here is an easy way to weather any vehicle, train or structure. Just do this after you get them

1. Wa***hem with Alcohol and Black or dark color paint. Just a little bit added so when you brush it on the structure looks dirty. Then let it dry.
2. Spray the Structure or Loco with Dull Cote by Testors. It will take away the shiny look. After it dries you will see how nice it comes out.

that is the most simpler way to weather any Structure, Loco, Or vehicle. After you learn more you can start practicing with PAstels and other paint colors.

[Anonymous]

You can make pretty effective diesel MU cables from scrap wire - just drill holes in the right places (look at prototype photos to work this out), and install them. I used telephone cable as I had a large chunk hanging around - if you open up the outer insulation you find a bunch of single-core insulated wires - with the insulation on these make a good representation of the horizontal cable above the coupler (usually painted red), and if you strip the insulation they make a good representation of the six dangling cables (three either side of the coupler). Not sure what the technical terms are for these cables but comparing the results to photographs they look convincing, and the cost of materials is very low. Good luck!

[Anonymous]

Up John,

I agree with Ray about building the more detailed kits. For basic freight car weathering I recommend the following:

Before detailing and weathering, my cars get Kaydees and the trucks and wheels are replaced or tuned up so that the car is not one of those "problem" cars that looks great but won't run.

The issue of grab irons/ ladders and stirups comes next. Most shake the box kits have molded on grabs/ladders and oversize stirups on them. You will have to decide what your standards are in this area. I now don't build anything without separately applied grabs and scale sized stirrups. Back in the day I built lots of stuff with molded grabs and big stirrups. Some of these cars are still on the railroad...Shaving off ladders and grabs and drilling and applying new ones is so much work that it is easier to build one of the more detailed kits (I've replaced grabs and ladders on several Athearn/Mdc cars, takes a long time).

Weathering:

Note: make sure you are using the same light that you have on the railroad for painting a weathering purposes. A classic mistake is to use a very strong light at the work bench and then find out that your colors are too dark when viewed on the weaker light of the layout.

Two Weathering principles:

1. Less is more. You can always add more weathering later.

2. Keep messing with it until it looks right. If you have to ask "Does this look OK?" Then it probably needs more work.

Weathering steps include:

1. Decide whether the car will be lightly weathered or look like it is ready for the junk yard. If you don't do this then you might fall prey to the "falling apart railroad syndrome" where every car is real beat up (I love that look, but have to keep myself in check). I think this is because there is a tendency to keep going in the weathering process once it has begun.

2. Remove and paint the trucks and wheels All paints are flat finish for our purposes here. Grimey black with a little rust works well. Make sure that you get the axles and insides of the end wheels so that when you see the car from its end view, you don't ruin the illusion.

3. Paint the underside of the car that is visible. I use black and rust color for this as well.

4. Weather the roof. I like several methods for this. One can use chalk (I recommend Bragdon's Powders, They stick well and have some good colors.) or paint in the same color as the original color only a little lighter/ or darker. Generally darker colors weather lighter and lighter colors darken. . The idea is to dull it down and give some texture. One cool trick is to paint the roof and then apply a thick coat of powder to it after the paint is dry.

5. Weather the car sides. Paint or chalk work well here. If using paint use the "wet on wet" technique. Apply thin washes with lots of water/thinner and blend colors while wet on the car.

6. Dullcoat or not to dullcoat?? I generally don't use dullcoat because I find that it darkens some colors and it will make chalk disappear. In instances where the shine is still there, I will use it sparingly.... I would also watch out for india Ink washes. They must be applied smoothly or they will bead up and run in funny ways and there is a real possibility of getting the model too dark. Use them as a light wa***o highlight detail....

There is more, but I have probably gone on too long already. I personally love to weather cars. When you get some good ones and sit back and watch the train roll by, weathered rolling stock adds a huge amount of realism and overall "coolness" factor to your layout.

[Anonymous]

Hm, what about drybrushing? Is this something to avoid...?

And denting, how do you dent plastic and wooden kits efficiently?

[dwRavenstar]

JC
I can't speak from experience as to wooden cars but I've had some limited success "denting" plastic gons by using a soldering iron. Just close enough to soften the plastic and then I pressed the dent out with the rounded end of an Exacto knife. My crews were always careful enough that no dents occurred from the outside in but they beat the daylights out of my gondolas from the inside out. [B)]

Dave (dwRavenstar)