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Paul, the "grill" is properly known as the "pilot" or "fender" in some cases (not to be confused with "pilot truck"). In some circles "cow catcher" will do. I realize that its a bit late for these tips but eventually I'm sure you will be much happier with "under the board" switch macines (if possible). Not only will your pike look more realistic but you will avoid any snags from top mounted obstructions. I wouldn't set about filing down or altering any rolling stock (Locos or cars) for a problem with track work. The foundation of a good running layout MUST start with a solid roadbed and track work as flawless as you can manage. If the "clearance problem" is encountered on a curved switch ("turnout'), you may find that the radius of the curve section is too "tight" for the length (wheelbase) of your locomotive. Then you would want to go to a #6 turnout if you are using #4's. I know, doing track work isn't the most fun thing about model railroading but it is by far (in the long run) the most important. M.R. magazine (Kalmbach publishers) have great articles on getting started with track work. I'm not touting any particular books etc., but you can avoid endless aggravation later on if you adhere to the ABC's of good track and wiring principals. Hope you have many hours of as "trouble free" operation as possible. Patience is definately a virtue.
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