need help with wiring

[Anonymous]

I have lookes at all sorts of books and they all mention wiring blocks. i really whatn to make it so i can wire it so i can park an engin in an area and not have it run wile i run another heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllllppppppppppppppp[
B.E

[Virginian]

I do not mean to sound curt, but it sounds like you need to learn a little something about electricity before I would even know how to help you. If you get a non-power routing turnout, and then wire the thru route through one power switch and then wire the siding through another power switch, you can achieve what you desire.

[Anonymous]

BEn that is why you need to go straight DCC so you do not have those issues with that block crap. I would not be a modeler if there was no DCC. I hated those switches to switch polarity, cut a block on or off. That was too much so I went straight into DCC. Two buss wires under the layout and some feeders up and boom I was running. When I first started like yoiu I was a bit bewildered with the wiring but I just read up on it and it came natually to me. I had to isolate only on areas that I have two reverse loop modules thats all. Invest into DCC and save yourself much headache and time

[Don Gibson]

START by using 2 color wire for track, - and 3 color for swiches.

A BLOCK is a section of track fed by an on-off switch.
A SINGLE-ENDED SIDING or SPUR can be fed by a 'power routing'.turnout.
.
DCC has modules installed in each engine to receive operating instructions throgh the track.
DC select's sections of track to power your train.

[Anonymous]

yea i would like dcc but since im only ten i dont really have that money by the way whad dcc system would be the best for the the least amount of cash

[dwRavenstar]

Heya Ben,

You want to run one and leave another parked so I'll assume you're working with a single power pack and have yet to attempt dual cab wiring and control.
Your layout is broken into blocks with the use of plastic insulating joiners in place of metal ones. Look at a cross section of a piece of wire. The metal conducts electricity, the plastic coating keeps the electricity inside, where it belongs. Your insulating joiners keep the electricity in the block of track you want live and away from what you want turned off.
Pick an isolated section of track, a siding or a spur, where you'd want your parked loco to rest. Break the electrical circuit to that section with the insolated joiners. On a spur you only have to place them at the entrance to the spur or anywhere along it to set the remaining track off from your main circuit of track. A siding has two ends so you have to break the circuit at each end to achieve your desired isolation.
Now, you wire your power pack to the isolated track the same way as the rest of your layout with the exception of including an on/off switch in the circuit. Switch closed (ON) powers the track the same as the rest of your pike. Open the switch (OFF) and you deny the currect a path to that section of track. No current flow, no response from the parked locomotive.
You'll want to wire at least two sections of track for this purpose since once you finish running the second loco you'll want to park it and get the first one moving again.
Good luck with your effort and have fun at whatever level of the hobby you feel comfortable.

Dave (dwRavenstar)