Hey all,
I'm currently working on a couple GP30 Proto 2000's that I had picked up off of ebay some years back, finally getting around to building my layout etc. So I wanted to have a few trains to run. One of my GP30's is running super super slow, almost barely running, and the other is not running at all when power is applied. I'm running Digitrax, when running one of my DCC engines its fine, runs perfect. So I feel like track power is no issue.
Next I looked up some videos to take these guys apart and look for the cracked gears, on the one not working at all 3 of the 4 wheel gears were cracked those had been replace with the Athern ATH 60024 gears. One truck seems to roll perfeclty fine where as the other seems to be sticking still and not wanting to run loosly? Any idea on what else could be causing the issue here? I notice when I spin the worm gears it seems to run smooth and fine, no click or sticky movement. I feel like it could be the worm gear that is causing the issue, but I'm not 100% sure.
Hello,
Over the years I've 'tuned up' dozens of Proto locos. By replacing the axle gears you have pretty much guaranteed that any old grease has been removed. Sometimes the bearings on the worm gear will have a lacquer-like substance which seems to be an extract of the lube reacting with alloys in the bearing.
L-L 'peanut butter' grease:
L-L_SD7-truck-top by Edmund, on Flickr
Grease turned to amber:
Proto_gear-3 by Edmund, on Flickr
Some L-L locos suffer from squealing from these bearings and I have found that in some cases Life-Like used an alloy for the sintered bearings that causes this. The cure was to use a similar bearing from Athearn.
Check to be sure all the axle bearings are properly seated in the trucks. Sometimes the bearings don't seat properly and will cause binding.
Proto_gear-7 by Edmund, on Flickr
When you installed your decoders did you remove the L-L lighting board? Maybe the diodes set up for the lights are robbing the motor of voltage?
Good Luck, Ed
WaynesTrainzOne truck seems to roll perfeclty fine where as the other seems to be sticking still and not wanting to run loosly? Any idea on what else could be causing the issue here?
Good Morning. One thing to check is to see if the sideframes are too tight. This would impede the wheels. Just back them off a bit. A shot of graphite in the sideframe pockets doesn't hurt, either.
Good Luck,
Len S
Hello All,
As Albert Einstein was credited with saying...
"Once you open a can of worms the only way to all the worms back in is to use a bigger can."
Were these units DCC equipped or did you add decoders?
Did the previous owner(s) install the decoders or are they Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM)?
If the decoders are after-market what manufacturer and model?
Have you tried disconnecting the motor(s) from the decoder and test under DC?
You can get an inexpensive DC controller from auction sites. They are handy if you do a lot of DC to DCC conversions. Add a couple of alligator clips and you have a motor test bed.
Are the wheels in gauge?
I am in the process of converting a Proto 2000 BL-2 from DC to DCC. I too have encountered cracked axle gears.
As you know, the axles are press-fit into the gears.
If one or both of the axles are pressed too far into the gears this could cause binding.
Getting an NMRA HO Standards Gage will help you make sure the wheels are in gauge. Micro-Mark has them on sale for $16.99 + S/H. (NMRA Gage, HO Scale.)
Let us know your results/solution and as always...
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
OP could have a few mechanical (not electircal) issues impeding the rolling quality. As has been shown, there could be excessive grease under the worm gear cover, either by the factory or a previous owner slopping on thick grease. I have owned a LL loco that would not run at all simply because the grease was thick and tacky.
Since someone has apparently replaced the cracked gears, they may have pushed the axles into the gears too far to where there is some rubbing on the side of the truck.
Then there is the possibility that somehting within the entire drivetrain is not seated properly, from the motor itself through the driveshafts and worms and into the brass/phosphorous axle bearings shown above.
These are all easy fixes if you just commit yourself to carefully poking around and taking things apart. There was a time when I could "field strip" one of those old protos down to its components, clean them all up, and reassemble it within about 30 minutes. They are pretty cleverly engineered and are easy to tear down once you get past the intimidation.
- Douglas
Regarding the slow runner: Having bought several old LLs, I have found they can run slowly after sitting; a half-hour of so of constant running should loosen the up. Obviously, once oiled, greased, etc.
Aaron