I am trying to convert to knuckle couplers. I purchase Kadee Couplers No 5, but they did not come with screws or instructions. The instructions on the Kadee website are useless since they do not tell you what couplers can be used to change on what cars. I have several cars that are from the 70s and some that are from the 60s. There seems to be no way to know what couplers can be used to change the older hook couplers. On the Kadee website there are no pictures of what the coupler you are converting looks like. I have several different brands. I tried lookng on youtube, but most of the videos do not seem to apply to the cars that I have. I had some luck with McHenry's, but only for a few cars that I have. Please help.
Welcome to the forums. Your first few posts will be moderated, so may be slow.
Go back and look the site over again, you missed something. It's been several years since I used the site, but what i found was very different than what you describe. There was a chart listing dozens of locomotives and rolling stock, by brand and the coupler you needed as a replacement. For the locos I looked up there were also directions with diagrams of needed modifications (pieces to remove or add) to make the proper coupler fit.
When you get the right chart, I think you will find all the info you need.
Good luck,
Richard
https://www.kadee.com/hocc
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
On JaBear's link. There is a box on the right with a blue button that says conversion. That is the full list.
shane
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
I will also chime in that the OP should look at #146 "whisker" couplers as they are much easier to install than the old standby#5. Since it sounds like you are new to Kadee couplers, you'll likely swear that it takes three hands to install a #5. The #146 has "whisker" springs built into the shank of an otherwise clone of the #5 meaning no separate spring to deal with. Not too tough a learning curve though. Good luck!
Hornblower
hornblower I will also chime in that the OP should look at #146 "whisker" couplers as they are much easier to install than the old standby#5. Since it sounds like you are new to Kadee couplers, you'll likely swear that it takes three hands to install a #5. The #146 has "whisker" springs built into the shank of an otherwise clone of the #5 meaning no separate spring to deal with. Not too tough a learning curve though. Good luck!
Correction. The whisker coupler that is the equivalent of a #5 is the #148. I don't think they are much easier to install since both are fairly easy if one has the correct coupler pocket. The centering spring that is used with the #5 are somewhat delicate and occasionally they can get damaged to where they are unusable but that is not a common occurence. If handled properly, they are every bit as reliable as the whisker coupler. The #148 is my go-to coupler but the #5s in my older cars work just as well.
I'm guessing the problem described by the OP has to do with having the right sized coupler pockets. Most cars produced in the last 4 decades have coupler pockets compatible with either the #5 or #148. The most common exception are the ones with truck mounted couplers. I would suggest buying a package of KDs coupler boxes and installing them. Naturally, the pockets have to be securely mounted, centered and screwed in place. Shims might be needed to get the coupler to the correct height. If the coupler is too high, a shim between the coupler pocket and the underframe can lower it. If the coupler is too low, washers can be inserted between the trucks and the underframe to raise the coupler height. If I remember right, KD makes thin fiber washers for that purpose.
One other thing to check is if the car has a metal weight attached to the floor of the car. Sometimes those metal weights have a curve in them and that will cause the plastic floor of the car to curve as well which will prevent the coupler from being at the correct height. That can usually be fixed by placing the metal weight on a hard surface and stepping on it. That's always worked for me.
Thank you. The full chart seems to help a little. It does say that I should use the #28 coupler with the #212 HO Scale Talgo Truck Adapter. For instructions it only shows how to put together the #28, however, it does not show you how to use the Talgo adapter or how to place it on the truck itself. I wanted to insert pictures, but I can't seem to do that on this site. Please help.