You have Rapido Trueline trains and Tangent . Which one to choose they are all top quality full of detail and lighting. Do you go by price or what and this goes of other products. How to choose?
Rambo2 You have Rapido Trueline trains and Tangent . Which one to choose they are all top quality full of detail and lighting. Do you go by price or what and this goes of other products. How to choose?
This is a puzzeling question to me.
They all make/made models of different cabooses, many from different eras?
What caboose model to you want? What road roadname?
Other than finding what is left over on Ebay, Trueline Trains is effectively gone.
The answer for me is none of these brands. Because only the up coming Rapido Northeastern caboose is in my era, and I am already full up with models of those that are more than detailed enough to suit me - no fancy DCC lighting required here.
Are you modeling a specific railroad or just collecting high detail models?
Sheldon
Price and details are a factor, but first off would be finding the caboose that matches the railroad you are modeling and the time frame.
Once you find what "fits", then compare details and price.
Now if you are not modeling a specific railroad or time frame, then you can look for the "most bang for your buck". If you want to see what's out there, I would do searches on Ebay and Walthers.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
for me I will never own either Rapido or Tangent for one reason $$$$$$$$.
ndbprr for me I will never own either Rapido or Tangent for one reason $$$$$$$$.
I can't really say that, I have $50 B&O cabooses from Spring Mills Depot, a high detail brand the OP left out.
http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm
I have a number of Walthers Proto Milwaukee cabooses with side windows. My original Milwakee cabeese were from my Junior High days, and were the ancient southwest models, painted silver and given Milwaukee decals. I picked up most of them on Walthers discounts. I don't know why kept producing so many different models, or rather so many identical models with different road numbers and slight paint job variations, but by the time they put them on clearance they were Accurail priced.
I got quite a fleet. I put interior illumination and some details in one, getting carried away after installing Tomar marker lights. Waste of time. You can't see through those tiny windows anyway.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
In Cabooses I buy now what fits my era, The Penn Central era. Of course I will go back in time, pre the PC a little just to change it up.
If I really want to go way back in time and change it up, I can run early Diesel and late Steam (PRR and other Northeastern roads) and 40' and 50' cars with appropriate Cabooses.
Since I only need one Caboose and a few Engines per train, I will invest in RTR top dollar detailed cabooses like Tangent (PRR, NYC and PC) Blueford (PC) and Spring Mills Depot (B&O) at this moment.
In my younger days I only had choices of Athearn BB, MDC/Roundhouse and then Bowser (kits). I later moved up to Bowser and LLP2K (RTR). I do now have many Bowser (kits and RTR), LLP2K, Atlas, Athearn BB (upgraded by me) and MDC/Roundhouse (upgraded by me) to fill in the rank and file.
To me the Engines and the Caboose are what draws my attention the most, the rest of the train is...well just fill in passing by. Untill it derails!
As with the interior lighting and detail on the high dollar HO scale cabooses, well it is very hard to see in day light hours with the caboose standing still let alone in motion. I do think about the detailed interior and lighting and how cool it is for about six months more or less after purchase, sooner or later the Caboose falls into the big picture and that coolness fades away a little. Now the exterior detail is really nice but can fall off with handling or during interchange.
I do not have any Rapido Cabooses.
So I take it you don't care what road you buy?
I model DRGW and none of those companies make correct cabooses for Rio Grande. Athearn may produce a caboose for Rio Grande in their Genesis like eventually from what they say.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I would only buy the caboose that is accurate for my railroad, period. Otherwise I end up never being happy with a foobie and end up selling them all.
If my road's caboose is not available, or I just want a good one:
Of the 3 brands mentioned, I would probably forget all their cabooses and instead buy the Athearn Genesis Southern Pacific/Western Pacific cabooses. I like their lighting better especially the ones with the trailing red light on the roof which is way cool; they went east on roads like IC/ICG in run-through service and getting them east of Chicago on other roads would be plausible.
John
All of my cabooses are brass.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
As others have said, you should buy cabooses that were used by the railroad you model.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
With rare exception, I choose what fits my railroad AND my era.
If that doesn't matter to you and those three are your choices, Tangent hands down over Rapido & Trueline.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I'm guessing the OP is looking at Canadian-prototype models. True-Line (formerly Life-Like of Canada IIRC) made a very nice wood Canadian-style wood caboose in plastic years back, that sold for about $25. I have a couple (DW&P and CN). However, those haven't been made for a long time now, and commonly now sell for $90-$200!
riogrande5761 Rambo2 You have Rapido Trueline trains and Tangent . Which one to choose they are all top quality full of detail and lighting. Do you go by price or what and this goes of other products. How to choose? So I take it you don't care what road you buy? I model DRGW and none of those companies make correct cabooses for Rio Grande. Athearn may produce a caboose for Rio Grande in their Genesis like eventually from what they say.
One of the old Roundhouse steel cabooses that was decorated in the black scheme was fairly close to a Rio Grande one. Years ago I compared one to a brass caboose and it really was a pretty reasonable match. If that is what Athearn is re-releasing it's not bad.
ATLANTIC CENTRALI can't really say that, I have $50 B&O cabooses from Spring Mills Depot, a high detail brand the OP left out. http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm Sheldon
I think I bought one for $69 and then they went out of stock and were selling for $100 on Ebay. Unfortunately they were not lighted nor did they have interiors. Not a deal breaker IMHO, but maybe for the OP. They list a couple B&O types in future production, but it doesn't look like their website has changes since Covid.
American Model Builders has laser kits. Again, no lighting or interiors and YOU have to build it.
http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
BigDaddy ATLANTIC CENTRAL I can't really say that, I have $50 B&O cabooses from Spring Mills Depot, a high detail brand the OP left out. http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm Sheldon I think I bought one for $69 and then they went out of stock and were selling for $100 on Ebay. Unfortunately they were not lighted nor did they have interiors. Not a deal breaker IMHO, but maybe for the OP. They list a couple B&O types in future production, but it doesn't look like their website has changes since Covid. American Model Builders has laser kits. Again, no lighting or interiors and YOU have to build it. http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
ATLANTIC CENTRAL I can't really say that, I have $50 B&O cabooses from Spring Mills Depot, a high detail brand the OP left out. http://www.springmillsdepot.com/i-12main.htm Sheldon
They were only $53.95 if you preordered early when they were announced.
I will add lights, but being a DC operator I don't want fancy DCC lighting anyway.
I have no concern about interiors.
I model a regional short line in captive mine service so my prototype did...interesting things to their cabooses. As a result, I normally go with a "close enough" in the cheaper end of the spectrum, since I'll be having to do some modification to bring them up to the railroad's preferences anyways, and I don't want to buy an expensive super detailed caboose when I'll either have to replace them, or risk damaging the super detailing anyways.
When I modelled transition era PRR with family I went with Walther's Proto normally. For the one or two cabooses I'll need for transfer traffic I'll probably go with Walther's Proto as well, since they have a DSS&A caboose on offer currently.
allegedlynerdyI model a regional short line in captive mine service so my prototype did...interesting things to their cabooses
That sounds like a great prototype for a model railroad.
The Tangent cabooses are amazing. If they fit your need I would go with those.
An "expensive model collector"