maxman rrebell hop this makes sense, don't know how else to discribe it A sketch?
rrebell hop this makes sense, don't know how else to discribe it
A sketch?
I have a 40" x 12' switching layout (switchers and 40' or shorter cars) and I'm a big fan of touchless and delayed uncoupling with KD's. I started out using the #321's between the rails (unsightly and inflexible), tried the #308 under track magnets (hassle to install or modify placement), experimented using Harbor Freight rare earth 5/16 x 1/8" disc magnets held apart by a styrene strip with concave ends (adjustable for use on curves).
For the bulk of my uncoupling spots I have settled in on using 3mm cube magnets that fit five wide between the ties and rails quite nicely. When installed there is just the right amount of top clearance to activate the KD's but not conflict with anything passing over. To install I lay out a long string in a magnetically comfortable order and mark every fifth one with a black marker. When I install them between the ties, one strip at a time, and glue them down the black cubes are all on one side orienting the magnetic pull. I usually use them in 3 strips of 5 but I've also played with a 5-4-5 configuration. After install they can be camouflaged with paint or ballast without affecting performance.
I mark the uncoupling spots with power poles, light poles in the yard and white posts. I really like doctorwayne's idea of a yellow post with a black band or bands in easily visible spots. Another project. Since I usually operate the whole layout from one area the poles act as taller than rolling stock uncoupler locator.
It became a trial and error project with an outcome that I've been quite happy with. Now my largest conflict has become projects vs operating time.
For the magnets I use drill 1/8" hole, done.
rrebell For the magnets I use drill 1/8" hole, done.
I thought this was an information sharing forum, not a contest .....
Well, here you go rrebell, a nice pat on the head. You win .....
ClydeSDale rrebell For the magnets I use drill 1/8" hole, done. I thought this was an information sharing forum, not a contest ..... Well, here you go rrebell, a nice pat on the head. You win .....
Anyway I am still experimenting, strange thing I found out that using two magnets with oposite poles on each side on straight track enhance the uncoupling action but doing the same on a curve makes it not work at all, why? Also found the some non Kadee couplers are less reliable but other are just fine with those used on Proto 2000 being the worst (but then a lot of you would say duh, but I always double check things for myself).
Further experiments have shown that this method of uncoupling is not as reliable on engines that are not Kadee equiped. Still experimenting with new combinations and placements. On a side note, I have learned to paint the magnets so the disappear almost in my WS grey blend ballast.
Still waiting on n52's out of Canada, I swear I get stuff faster from China than Canada these days.
cowmanHow slow can you go and they not come uncoupled?
As long as there is no slack in the train, as slow as you want to. You can even stop, as long as you do not go backward the Kadee couplers will stay coupled.
All of my cabooses have wipers on the axles that provide a little resistance so the train stays coupled.
When just switching with no caboose, very free-rolling cars can still experience accidental uncouplings over 308 permanent magnets when going very slow.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Finally got my N52 magnets and they do work even better. Ended up useing two per side with polarity different on each side with magnets as close as possible to the rails. I also placed each side with the first magnet further from the trip pin by one tie so say each side has three possible spots, facing the magnets looking down the rails the left side would be 1 and 2 and the right would be 2 and 3. The reason for this was to use less magnets and when using an engine it was much more reliable. Also of note is that with the N52 you could uncouple cars wth the magnet under the ballast but not the engine.
Magnets are now installed and work great. Didn't need any on the main except one place so working on a design that uses weaker magnets as an asist to the dental brush pick to make it impossible to have an accidental uncoupling on the main instead of the 99% under current design. Also got to come up with a way of seeing the sweet spot for uncoupling on the others, seems I got too good at hiding them, well I did want them hidden!!!
rrebell Finally got my N52 magnets and they do work even better. Ended up useing two per side with polarity different on each side with magnets as close as possible to the rails. I also placed each side with the first magnet further from the trip pin by one tie so say each side has three possible spots, facing the magnets looking down the rails the left side would be 1 and 2 and the right would be 2 and 3. The reason for this was to use less magnets and when using an engine it was much more reliable. Also of note is that with the N52 you could uncouple cars wth the magnet under the ballast but not the engine.
Bought mine on ebay. Since I use cork over foam, I drill 1/8" holes just thru the cork and insert the magnets which are 1/2" long, don't even have to glue them in. Yeah it has worked out better than I imagined, surprised Kadee dosn't sell them with a markup of course. The only problem I have had is with a bobber logging caboose as they are so super short the magnet tends to grab the pin too hard but that only seems to happen with the stronger magnets also could be fixed by bending the pin up a bit more than normal. Like I have said before, I tried to test everything to find flaws, including every coupler brand I own which includes knockoffs from most brands including such cars as stock Ertls, like I said I tried everthing I could find. Another note, these magnets will identify drooping couplers, have a Backmann 70 ton engine like that, had to tighten the screws LOL.