I recently purchased the #933-2859 turntable. The bridge track is set slightly below the plastic rim so that code 83 service track is higher than the bridge track, and causes problems when engines bridge the gap.
I am considering using code 70 for the service track to solve the problem. Has anyone experienced this problem?
I recall a thread with the opposite problem
to the forum. Your posts are delayed in moderation for a short while.
There is a search function on the right side of this page in the middle. It just started working again. I found the above link with google
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I had the same issue with the same turntable. As I understand it from Walters that's a common issue with that turntable.
I pretty much solved mine by grinding off a little of the bottom and a little of the top of the approach track. I think I also sanded off a little of the bottom of the plastic ties under the approach track. Not the most elegant solution overall.
I didn't think of the Code 70 track possibility. It might be worth trying. I'd probably purchase the smallest amount I could and try it on one stall.
Some related issues with the turntable. Mine defaulted to a 90 foot TT with no choice for the 130 ft. That made it lose it's place after about half a rotation. Walthers replaced the firmware and it's been perfect ever since.
I run mine with an ACM module and had an issue with it also. Can't remember what now, but it was a common problem with the ACM. Again, Walther's fixed it and it's been perfect ever since.
There's no specific solution to fixing the height issue you describe, it seems from my experience that it's just a cut and fit experimental solution that gets you where you want to go with it. Disappointing since all else seems to work out well with this model. An earlier model from a few years back was apparently a disaster and never did get fixed.
Even with the early problems, I'm quite happy with the turntable.
What brand of track are you using? I used Walthers track and the match was a perfect fit. What are the service tracks sitting on, foam, wood? Does the service track rail sit firm on the pit edge or above it?
I would think it is an easy fix and a photo would go a long way to us being able to offer suggestions.
The ends of the service track should be slightly dressed down on the sides and top regardless just to make for a smooth crossing. If you look at the bridge track the ends of the rail are tapered out of the box, at least they are on mine.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
When I purchased my 90' turntable, I was using Code 100 at the time. I removed the ties and laid the bare rail on the apron, but it was about 25-30 thou too high for the code rail on the bridge...I think it was Code 70, but can't recall.
My fix was to use a thin grinding stone in my Dremel kit and carefully grind out two parallel grooves in the apron plastic. Seems a bit draconian, perhaps, but it solved my problem nicely.
You gotta be kidding me. Yikes I am planning on buying the #933-2859 turntable. I didn't know it had this issues.
Also I just found out that it doesn't even come with a power supply. $300 turntable and they can't include power supply.
Come on Walthers, they are going backwords on new releases. When I bought a 130' turntable on my old layout, it worked perfectly, and came with a power supply. Also it was able to use DCC function for using my throttle to control it. Now you have to buy a seperate module for that.
Dissapointed with Walthers right now.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Through my experiences with clubs, my layouts, John's layout, and Randy's layout... plastic turntables are always difficult.
I was lucky to find the two turntables I need for my final layout in good used condition from Bowser.
Heljan, Walthers, Kibri, and so on... we had problems with them all. Oddly, the cheap Atlas HO turntable is fairly reliable, and works well in N scale if you can get past the bottom of the pit rotating with the bridge.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I just found this Flieschman turntable. It looks pretty cool and its $472. Damn I wonder if its worth the money and will be reliable?
The only thing is its kinda short bridge at 310mm 12in. I would have to limit the kind of steam locos I buy.
Any thoughts on this?
https://www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?erh_find=ho%20turntable&so=5&stock=FL-6152
Lastspikemike Speaking of power supplies for Walthers turntables does anybody know whether the 2 amp supply they make as part of the turnout system can be connected to one of the power out connectors on the main component ? That would be the power out from the Layout Control System Distribution Block the power supply plugs into.
Speaking of power supplies for Walthers turntables does anybody know whether the 2 amp supply they make as part of the turnout system can be connected to one of the power out connectors on the main component ?
That would be the power out from the Layout Control System Distribution Block the power supply plugs into.
I'm having some trouble with terminology. What 'main component'?
If the outputs on the turntable controller, if there are such things, can be used to pass through power to other items, I imagine you'd want to limit that to the maximum stated current for the turntable controller. If it's still the same, it's only 0.5 amps.
If you mean a controller for the turnout system, with which I have zilch in the way of acquaintance, the same caveat applies; you should only get what that controller can pass through, and only if it meets the voltage demands of the 2 amp power supply you're talking about.
Yeah, I'm confused.
Motley I just found this Flieschman turntable. It looks pretty cool and its $472. Damn I wonder if its worth the money and will be reliable? The only thing is its kinda short bridge at 310mm 12in. I would have to limit the kind of steam locos I buy. Any thoughts on this? https://www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?erh_find=ho%20turntable&so=5&stock=FL-6152
Way too Euro-looking for a North American layout.
I still say simple is best. The one that ALWAYS works on the club layout is and older model, I think maybe a Bowser one, driven by a simple DC motor with a rubber wheel friction drive, no indexing, just run with an old walkaround DC throttle mouted on the fascia.
These intermediate prices automatic indexing turnbtables seem to be nothing but trouble (and I consider the $200-$400 range 'intermediate' when you consider the electronics involved). The really nice index controllers, where just the controller is $400-$600, not including the turntable itself - those seem to work very reliably. SO in my mind it's either really expensive, or keep the cost down and forego the indexing completely. Unless you bury the turntable at the back of the layout, indexing by eye isn't difficult.
With a little electronics knowledge and some programming experience with something like an Arduino, you can emulate the high end electronics for less cost than the intermediate ones.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Damn I wonder if its worth the money and will be reliable? The only thing is its kinda short bridge at 310mm 12in. I would have to limit the kind of steam locos I buy. Any thoughts on this? https://www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?erh_find=ho%20turntable&so=5&stock=FL-6152 These intermediate prices automatic indexing turnbtables seem to be nothing but trouble (and I consider the $200-$400 range 'intermediate' when you consider the electronics involved). The really nice index controllers, where just the controller is $400-$600, not including the turntable itself - those seem to work very reliably. SO in my mind it's either really expensive, or keep the cost down and forego the indexing completely. Unless you bury the turntable at the back of the layout, indexing by eye isn't difficult. With a little electronics knowledge and some programming experience with something like an Arduino, you can emulate the high end electronics for less cost than the intermediate ones. --Randy
Damn I wonder if its worth the money and will be reliable?
The only thing is its kinda short bridge at 310mm 12in. I would have to limit the kind of steam locos I buy. Any thoughts on this? https://www.eurorailhobbies.com/product.asp?erh_find=ho%20turntable&so=5&stock=FL-6152
Dang, thats what I was wondering, if there were better turntable controllers available. Obviously the electronics walthers has is poorly made.
Where can I get one? And will it hook up the same as the walthers controller?
Motley Dang, thats what I was wondering, if there were better turntable controllers available. Obviously the electronics walthers has is poorly made. Where can I get one? And will it hook up the same as the walthers controller?
probably the best aftermarket controller is the New York railway supply but its $$$. http://www.nyrs.com/. We have them at the club and work great for the turntables.
I'm honestly going to build my own with a stepper motor, a shaft brake and optical breakbeam sensor for zeroing. It will be belt driven with the shaft brake engaging when the motor stops. It should be a fun little ardiuno project.
Bear,
I laughed at your post on the bents!
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
I will continue to align my turntables by eye. I find that system very reliable.
I don't know if this will help or not, but I just reconnected my older 90' Walthers turntable after moving. I used a decades old Varney power pack - the TT instructions say 12-19 volts, 1/2 amp. I hooked it to the accessory terminals, which prove a constant 17 volts. Works great.
The bridge power I connected to my DCC power buss.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I guess I'm wondering what purpose there would be in connecting the turntable to their turnout control system. For selecting the track without using the control box? That's what the DCC version of the turntable was for. Also the advanced control module they sell for the turntable. Which can also drive relays to only power the selected stall track. It's not meant for casual users, it takes at least a little understanding of wiring to figure it all out.
Yeah, the NYRS is probably the best out there. But as you can see, you do pay for that. It won't directly work with the Walthers turntable, it needs to spin the shaft with their stepper motor.
That is probably the distinguishing factor that makes one more reliable than the other. Both work on counting how many times the motor turns (roughly - NYRS uses a stepper motor which is commanded to move a certain number of steps, I believe the Walthers one has a regular motor but has an interrupter disk like in many steam locos to count how many times it has turned). The Walthers one uses that to turn a gear that runs along the track cast int he pit. Anything interrupts that movement - a speck of ballast, etc, and it all goes south. It also relies on multiple wipers on the shaft to connect power and the control signals to the electronics. Any intermittant contact on the control wires and you also have trouble. A system using a stepper motor on the shaft - the only wires to the bridge it has are for the track power. No chance of dirty contacts messing up the control signal. The bridge is turned by the motor, rather than the motor turning the bridge - there's a subtle difference. Like a locomotive being powered by an on-board motor turnign the wheels, which is how the Walthers works, vs somethign like one of the old planes used in coal country or the barneys used to pull cars onto coal and ore unloaders.
Other than physically attaching the motor to the turntable shaft, the NYRS system does just plug together. They do document how to apply their system to the Walthers turntable. But for the total cost of all that stuff, I'd just as soon build my own, if aligning by eye wasn't practical. But my turntable will be right by the layout edge and should be very easy to visually align.
Hmmm well that is now just getting to be too much money and effort to get it working with a different indexer.
I will plan on just using the walthers turntable by eye. Its going to be on the close edge of the layout.
Pruit that helped, I will use an Railpower 1300 DC power pack that I already have and connect to accessory output.
That power supply for the Walthers system isn't good for more than maybe 8 servos anyway. OK for a smaller layout, but for a large layout, you'll either have multiple power supplies or use one bigger one that can run everything, with a dedicated power bus around the layout connecting to all the accessories.