So I have a very basic oval layout on a 72" x 54" board. The only tracks besides curves are two turnouts on opposite sides of the layout. The turnouts are open at this time, with nothing connected to them. so no other track besides the oval with two turnouts.
For some reason power stops at two distinct points. Power goes from the track where I have the power connected. Through the turnout track and continues into the curve. Then it stops. Right between two curve tracks that are joined. This happens in both directions.
I used a multimeter to confirm the voltage. All is fine for a few tracks then zero once I get to a certain point.
Is it the open turnouts on both sides?
I would guess a bad connection between the two curved sections. Check the rail joiners, and make sure they are good.
If you only have one power feed to the oval, consider adding an additional feed opposite the original, to make sure your getting power all the way around.
If there is a problem with the turnouts, it will show up at the turnout.
Mike.
My You Tube
Some turnouts are power routing, but if you have no track connected to the diverging route, then it is unlikely the turnout would be aligned for the diverging route. Plus from you description I understand that the power goes through the turnout to the next track
Penn CentralThen it stops. Right between two curve tracks that are joined. This happens in both directions.
Does that mean there is a segment of rail between these curved tracks that is dead? I assume it does.
Rail joiners aren't always reliable conductors. More so if you have painted and weathered them. Sounds like you either need to solder the joiners or drop feeders from the dead rail.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Yep, I like and agree with all of the replies so far.
Rich
Alton Junction
It would help to know the brand and type of turnouts that are causing the problem. Also, do you have a track power bus and multiple feeders, or is this an under construction layout with just a single pair of wires between the power source and the track?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Regardless of the cause, turnouts or dead section at the curve, I would put another power drop in the curved section and not rely on the turnouts to transfer power to the curved section, as Mike proposed. From your post it appears you only have one power drop. If the loco runs past the turnout the problem may well be a dead section at the curve area
Thanks everyone. some extra points of feedback.
- Yes, this is a new layout that I'm just starting out. Its a seasonal layout (Christmas tree) so using the same tracks that worked last year.
- So right now just one feeder point. I dont think thats the issue b/c the voltage goes from 12v to 0v from one track to another. When this is up and running I will have feeders every 6 feet or so. worked great last year.
- I should've mentioned I used white elmers glue to secure the tracks to the cork roadbed. I wonder if the glue got between some joiners?
- The turnouts are Atlas #4 turnouts.
- I'll try measuring the resistance and I guess that should tell me what I need to know.
I'm now thinking its the glue!
If power gets beyond the turnout frogs to the first length of following tracks on both the through and diverging routes, power is good to there. If power stops beyond that point, it's either a micro crack in one of the rails that actually severs it completely (a probability of about 0.001), or a dirty, loose, oxidized, or splayed joiner (probability of about 0.999).
Penn Centralbut the chance of that happening in both directions? the micro crack?
.001 squared, equals .00001. Not very likely.
However losing power on one rail means the engine stops.
Dave
Rail joiners. The inside of a rail joiner is impossible to clean. Crud, corrosion, and unmentionable bad stuff builds up inside the rail joiner and sooner or later it stops conducting electricity. Some people solder the rail joiners, but this prevents you from taking the track apart, and the crud inside the joiner may prevent the solder from sticking. You can replace the old and cruddy rail joiner with a new shiny one. Or you can run a power bus underneath the layout and run light gauge jumpers from the bus to every other piece of track on the layout. I don't rely upon rail joiners conducting electricy, all the have to do is keep the rail joints lined up to prevent derailments.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
If the track is an oval and there is only one feeder, then a gap won't cause power loss. There'd have to be two gaps and the loss would be between.
My guess is a loose connection, either in the track, the power pack, or the engine causing intermittent outages.
LINK to SNSR Blog
Atlas turnouts pass power through with under-track jumpers, not through the points like some. So, I now also think it's rail joiners. It would be best to simply add feeders and provide a better distribution of power. Continuous rail power is fine, but sometimes difficult to achieve. If you will be taking this layout down in a couple of months and storing it until next year, other rail joiners may loosen and you will be in the same situation again.
Feeders are not an iron clad guarantee, but more likely to survive intact than simple joiner connection.
UPDATE: looks like it was the elmers glue I used to secure the tracks to the cork board. This never happened to me before and this is the first time I've ever tried the glue (works great otherwise!).
I used the Resistance tool of my multimeter to find the points where it dropped. All of them were right at the joints between tracks. So Itook the tracks off and first tried new joiner clips. if that didnt work I switched out the track entirely. I think I can see some coating at the ends of the affected tracks. Will soak in warm water.
Anyway, problem is fixed. Lesson learned. thanks all!
A dremel with a brass wire wheel will take care of it, too.
Penn Central UPDATE: looks like it was the elmers glue I used to secure the tracks to the cork board. This never happened to me before and this is the first time I've ever tried the glue (works great otherwise!). I used the Resistance tool of my multimeter to find the points where it dropped. All of them were right at the joints between tracks. So Itook the tracks off and first tried new joiner clips. if that didnt work I switched out the track entirely. I think I can see some coating at the ends of the affected tracks. Will soak in warm water. Anyway, problem is fixed. Lesson learned. thanks all!
that has happened to me as well Also be careful weathering track with paint. Make sure the tops and inside of the rails remain bare.
Joe Staten Island West