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Track cleaning, How often???

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Track cleaning, How often???
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 23, 2004 1:03 PM
I've been running point to point lately now that my layout is fully wired. I am using atlas track and turnouts. Also this is three rail ac TMCC, so i am desiring slooooowwww speed performance. Even in my climate controled basement, i have to clean the track every time i want to run slow speed. Normal speed operations is no problem. And all it takes is just a quick wipe of the track cleaning block to keep me up to speed. Is this normal? Is this what most of you have to go thru for an operations session? Thanks Bill
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Posted by challenger3802 on Thursday, December 23, 2004 1:10 PM
I generally clean the tracks when they need it, usually just where the loco sticks. I've seen lots of different methods tried on our club layout, most however end up with the cleaning block.

Another method is to use a high frequency track cleaner (available here: http://www.gaugemaster.com) I've seen this employed on a tiny shelf layout and it was working fine at keeping the track spotless!

Ian
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, December 23, 2004 1:23 PM
Bill,

It may make a difference what kind of wheel sets you use on your rolling stock. Plastic wheels are notoriusly bad for leaving debris behind. Switching over to all metal wheels (e.g. Proto 2000 wheel sets) will not only make them roll easier but keep your track cleaner. This translates to a decrease in the amount of time you spend cleaning your track and an increase in the amount of time you spend enjoying your layout.

Even though you mentioned that your basement is climate controlled, If you are using plastic wheel sets, then they might be so cruddy that they are just recontaminating the track that you just spent time meticulously cleaning. In order to keep the track clean, you'll probably have to clean your wheel sets also.

Whether replacing wheel sets or cleaning them, it won't be a small task if your rolling stock is even moderately big. For what it's worth...

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by ben10ben on Thursday, December 23, 2004 1:36 PM
Bill,
Have you considered building Jim Barrett's track cleaning car? Although I haven't personally built it , it's gotten pretty good reviews for being effective.

I usually clean when I start noticing trouble with slipping. I use tubular track, though, which tends to pu***he crud more off to the side rather than letting it all pile on the running surface.
Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 23, 2004 2:04 PM
There's lots of variables that may determine frequency.
As Tom mentioned, metal wheels sets are a major improvement.
The right kind of cleaning products and it's application.
Oxidation degradation, organanic & external contamination are contributory factors to rail dirt.

I have about six different cleaning products in my arsenal. I fired both Centerline & Tony's clean machine and went to MAAS, a two oz tube paste cleaner . Does wheels too.

Thank you MR Jan 2003.
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Posted by twhite on Thursday, December 23, 2004 2:18 PM
I have an actual track-cleaning train that I use about once every two weeks--I have my layout in a garage, and dust is a problem, especially in the summer. I use the newer Walther's track-cleaning car, the one with the spinning rotors, and another Walthers with a Brite-Boy type block suspended between the trucks, hooked in tandem. One sweeps the microscopic dust particles off of the railhead, the other polishes. Once around the layout (two or three passes in tunnels, just for insurance), and things run quite nicely for a long time. Only thing, with those two cars--very heavy--I have to use one of my compound 2-8-8-2's to pu***he thing. No problem, I just hook up some outfit cars to the tender, and voila! I've got a work train.
Tom
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Thursday, December 23, 2004 11:21 PM
We are constantly cleaning the track. Through the last 10 years we have tried everything and nothing really works. My favorite has become a rag over a block of something semi-solid to hold the rag flat on the rail tops. I wet the rag with 90% alcohol.

First it was sealing the cement floor. - no change
Dropping a ceiling and filtering the air. - no change
changing out all the plastic wheels - no change
changing to DCC - no change
cleaning with xxx
bright boys - just scratched the tops of the rails and made it worse.
goo-gone - good at first messy later not to mention smelly
LPS1 - good at first messy later (also watch out as it acts as a capacitor agent with DCC).
wall clipper oil - really messy later
acatone <sp?> - if drips eats the plastic ties of the turnouts
alcohol (of various types)
ammonia
soap and water
etc.
track cleaner cars with a little roller in them -
track cleaner cars that drag a masonite block -
track cleaner cars with a tank of cleaning fluid -
combinations there of.
Several times we have pulled all the rolling stock off and cleaned each wheel individually while the track was being cleaned. -

We still have track that gets dirty so we are constantly wiping it before and during an operating session. Seems locomotives can make about three loops (three scale miles?) before they have to have their feet cleaned.

The only things I know of we have not tried are
1. Polishing the tops of the rails (opposite of bright boy).
2. The electrostatic rail cleaning car.

What we really need is a more controlled environment to do a more scientific test with the various methods as there are so many variables. I am not convinced that the black gunk coming off on the rag is the problem. I think the black might be fine but something unseen is causing the conductivity problems.
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, December 23, 2004 11:55 PM
Texas Zepher,

Are you using nickel-silver track? Do you/would you have the same problem running a brand NEW locomotive that you would an older one? (I.e. Would you be able to circle the layout more than three times with a loco right out-of-the-box?) You've cleaned the wheels. Did you clean the pickups, too?

Sorry for all the dumb questions. I'm just randomly jotting some thoughts downing on the keyboard. Hmmmm. That pretty much covers all the cleaning methods that I've read about...

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 23, 2004 11:59 PM
I have a couple of track cleaning cars running all the time. Just take them off every month or so to clean the wipers and all the track i have to clean with a block is yards
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Posted by Jetrock on Friday, December 24, 2004 3:25 AM
I hit the track with a Bright Boy every few sessions or when I notice a bit of jerky operation and that seems to take care of it--this in a non-climate-controlled garage where dust abounds. I found that I had to clean more often when I smoked in the garage so I don't smoke in the garage anymore.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 24, 2004 5:40 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock

I found that I had to clean more often when I smoked in the garage so I don't smoke in the garage anymore.

Smoking qualifies as an airborne particulate that in part contributes to the formation of a coating, too thin to see, but thick enough to inhibit electrical contact.

TZ, have you tried MAAS?
We have one member that has 2600 feet of track and he is happy with MAAS.
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Posted by pastorbob on Friday, December 24, 2004 6:13 AM
My layout is three deck, located in a controlled basement environment, cars all have metal wheels. I run the "work train", consisting of two Tony's track cars, one with liquid, the other dry pad, about once every 6 months. I run the train again with the dry pad before each operating session over mainline and passing tracks.

Works very well for me.

Bob
Bob Miller http://www.atsfmodelrailroads.com/
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Posted by wpsteve on Friday, December 24, 2004 11:28 AM
Good to see folks being honest about cleaning track.. Most of the time we get the "I only clean track once a year " answer.
We run every other week and have to clean the track and engine wheels before each session. I use a block with canvas strip on it with alcohol. Just wipe what I can reach. Also made me a flat car with a pad with small nails on top side so I can put a canvas strip on it. Add alcohol and pull behind an old loco. I have over 700 feet of mainline and 9 passing sidings and have found it is faster to hand wipe than run a train.... I do use the loco/flat for areas I can't reach. As scenery is completed I will have to rethink the hand thingee.
Fellow from Texas did a great list of what they have tried... so have we.. I am changing over to metal wheels but my buddy did so and really saw little difference.

Bottom line, if you want good slow operation you will have to clean your track and wheels ! Find what works for you and get to it

WP Steve web site http://members.bigvalley.net/norma
WP Steve web site http://members.bigvalley.net/norma
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Posted by twhite on Friday, December 24, 2004 11:37 AM
I just got the Micromark wheel-cleaning station the other day, tried it out, and wow, does it work on the locomotive wheels! I don't know what's in the solvent they provide, but all those treads are bright and shiny, and really seem to stay that way. And I've got a lot of old brass, whose wheel-treads are starting to wear from use. Combine that with my 'work' train for cleaning the rails, and I'm a happy camper, now.
Tom
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Friday, December 24, 2004 12:49 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage

Texas Zepher,

Are you using nickel-silver track? Do you/would you have the same problem running a brand NEW locomotive that you would an older one? (I.e. Would you be able to circle the layout more than three times with a loco right out-of-the-box?) You've cleaned the wheels. Did you clean the pickups, too?

Sorry for all the dumb questions. I'm just randomly jotting some thoughts downing on the keyboard. Hmmmm. That pretty much covers all the cleaning methods that I've read about...

All perfectly valid questions.
1. Yes the track is nickel-silver. I actually I don't remember having this many problems when I ran brass track back in the 60's. But that is probably just a bad remembery.
2. Yes. new locomotives exhibit almost the same behavior. One session I did run a new Stewart FT set all night without cleaning it wheels (about 5 times around). I thought AH HA!, but the next week it wouldn't even move. Cleaned the wheels and couldn't believe the gunk that came off!? [banghead]
3. Pickups, it depends on the locomotive. The two opposites are the old Atlas with sliders on the inside of the wheel face I am always careful to get those. The Stewarts have sort of a bushing pickup and the only way I know to clean them would be to disassemble the trucks. That is a bad idea because they never seem to go back together tightly.

Oh yeah, someone else thought it was because of the old Athearn steel wheels. So we made everyone change the wheelsets to nickle silver. No avail.

Some of the members have speculated we are getting pitting on the wheelsets and top of the track. I don't have appropriate magnification equipment to check. This is actually another argument for trying the track polishing.

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Posted by BRAKIE on Friday, December 24, 2004 1:15 PM
I clean my track twice a year and spray it Radio Shack's channel turner cleaner.
This is the same process we use at the club..BTW the more you run your trains the less you will need to clean track even using cars with plastic wheels.
IMHO there is to much worry over cleaning track..Remember when you was a kid? How often did you clean track in those days?
Heck I could tell you things that are true that you wouldn't believe because of the hype in todays hobby caused by the experts(so called) in magazines concerning things that really doesn't matter or no great need to worry over.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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