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Brakemen

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Brakemen
Posted by SpaceMouse on Friday, February 2, 2018 8:37 PM

The railroad I'm modeling would have had brakemen. But if I glue them to the top of the cars, they will look silly standing around in a yard or nesled up against some building on a siding. 

Is there a logical way to model brakemen or I'm I just going to have to do without?

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • 249 posts
Posted by JWhite on Friday, February 2, 2018 8:43 PM

Magnets?  You'd have to put them on and remove them when the train stops but it shouldn't be any different then removeable loads on cars.

Jeff White

Alma, IL

  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 2, 2018 8:45 PM

SpaceMouse

The railroad I'm modeling would have had brakemen. But if I glue them to the top of the cars, they will look silly standing around in a yard or nesled up against some building on a siding. 

Is there a logical way to model brakemen or I'm I just going to have to do without?

 

Try a modification of this?

http://www.railsonwheels.com/ors/flagmen.shtml

Also you might need flagmen anyway, as that was one of the jobs assigned to brakemen once upon a time.

  • Member since
    March 2015
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Posted by SouthPenn on Friday, February 2, 2018 8:46 PM

How about turning the brake wheel on the cars.

South Penn
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Friday, February 2, 2018 8:51 PM

JWhite
Magnets?  You'd have to put them on and remove them when the train stops but it shouldn't be any different then removeable loads on cars.

Hmmm. Might work.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Friday, February 2, 2018 9:21 PM

I’ve been drilling a .021” (#75) hole in a leg of my figures and gluing a .02” Phosphor/Bronze wire as a mount.  An empty .021” mounting hole doesn’t show up unless you’re looking of it.
 
For my conductors carrying lights I glue them to a male micro connector and the female connector is in the caboose steps.
 
 
 
 
All of the figures in my scratch builts are plugged into .021” holes.
 
 
 
 
 
 
All of these guys and shop equipment are mounted with .02” wire in .021” holes.
 
 
 
I rarely mount anything on my layout permanently, even my trees and power poles are removable.  Everything plugs in.
 
I have about 100 sockets for 97 vehicles so that I can move them around for different looks.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Friday, February 2, 2018 10:02 PM

Mel,

I like your "people mounting".

But I especially like your guy with the lantern.

 

Ed

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: SE. WI.
  • 8,253 posts
Posted by mbinsewi on Friday, February 2, 2018 10:05 PM

BMMECNYC
Try a modification of this? http://www.railsonwheels.com/ors/flagmen.shtml Also you might need flagmen anyway, as that was one of the jobs assigned to brakemen once upon a time.

I seen a signal system on a club sized layout, that used this same thing, only using pictures of signals.

And SM, you could use something like the tacky stuff on the feet, I forget who makes it,  it's not a glue, but a caulk-type stuff for keeping figures standing.  Geez! I can't find it on a quick search,  I thick Arleene's is the product name.  I use it on my temporary Christmas thing.

Mike

  • Member since
    October 2001
  • From: OH
  • 17,574 posts
Posted by BRAKIE on Friday, February 2, 2018 10:44 PM

Chip,You model the  Old West  so,brakemen would carry Winchester or Henry repeating rifles to ward off any attacks.

 

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Friday, February 2, 2018 11:16 PM

Chip, if it makes sense to do so, you could heat the end of a small length of paper clip wire, or even part of the shaft of a sewing needle, until it's in 'OUCH!!' territory (meaning don't hold the other end in your fingers while you're heating it Geeked ), and then press the hot tip into the foot of your figure.  In turn, the pin can be inserted (once it is cooled) into a small hole someplace on the roof of rolling stock, or on the deck.  If it works better, glue a small length of styrene tubing up under the hole to help prevent the wobblies.

Or, if you can stand what it looks like, Aleene's tacky glue......?

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Rimrock, Arizona
  • 11,251 posts
Posted by SpaceMouse on Friday, February 2, 2018 11:20 PM

RR_Mel
I’ve been drilling a .021” (#75) hole in a leg of my figures and gluing a .02” Phosphor/Bronze wire as a mount.  An empty .021” mounting hole doesn’t show up unless you’re looking of it.

I like it.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Saturday, February 3, 2018 2:47 AM

SpaceMouse
The railroad I'm modeling would have had brakemen. But if I glue them to the top of the cars, they will look silly standing around in a yard or nesled up against some building on a siding...

You can use Woodland Scenics' "Accent Glue" to place figures (or other stuff) temporarily.  It comes with a brush-in-cap, and you simply paint some onto the figure's feet (or hands, if he's climbing to the car's roof) and let it sit for a few minutes until the white turns clear.  The figure can then be placed wherever you want it, and moved later without leaving any residue.  The holding power lasts for some time, so the same guy can be used several times before you need to rub-off the old stuff and re-coat.  It remains re-useable for weeks, if not months, and also seems to last well in the container, as long as the cap is on tightly.

Wayne

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