I am just finishing up the Walthers roundhouse and am going to light it. I can already see where light leakage is going to be a problem and have begun brainstorming on how I will deal with it.
In the past a coat of paint has been enough on most kits to deal with it, however, I think I will need more than that in some areas of the RH.
I was wondering if anyone has used liquid electrical tape ever and can it be painted afterward.
All suggestions to battle light leakage welcome.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I've used Gaffers tape to seal structure light leaks. Bought the stuff for roofing material, but is a multi-tasker. Has texture, matte surface, real sticky, takes paint and leaves no residue when removed.
Regards, Peter
Roundhouses weren't particularly known to be well lit structures. They did what they could by making windows as big as possible, and painting the walls white (which helps reflect light back)
If you have a light leakage problem all over due to thin walls, I would recommend painting the inside an aged or yellowed white with a healthy does of charcoal chalk. I would also switch to directional leds with shade hats, and turn down the lighting to use <10ma per bulb.That said I have other techinques:1. Use squadrons modelers putty at seam gaps. Not only does it seal the leak, but makes corners/joints stronger!2. Apply a thin black plastic sheet to large walls that still leak. With sectionals (like roofs) I apply a tongue and groove/rabbit approach. The black plastic overlaps slightly into the next roof's section. This ensures no shine though between roof sections where you can't seal the gap with putty.Hope this helps.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
I use strips of 3/16 or 1/4 inch balsa wood in the corners when I assemble the kit. This not only blocks light but gives a much larger surface for the glue to adhere to. I usually use CA because that will hold the wood-to-plastic joint securely.
I also line the inside walls with cardstock, printed with whatever interior wall design I want. This is particularly important for structures with very thin plastic walls, like this Atlas roundhouse, where failure to line the walls will actually result in "glow-through" from illuminated structures in a dark room.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Paintable caulk...a bead of that in the corners and other places should do the trick. If you are going to paint the inner walls anyway....
I've used black liquid electrical tape for this purpose in several situations. I don't usually use it where it needs to be painted. Works for me.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I will be putting a rail around the bottom inside to cover that part, it should look okay. At the airport in the hangers and cargo sheds, there was always a heavy piece of lumber around the entire wall at the floor to protect it from those that liked to park equipment by braille.
I forgot about caulk, I could peel it off if I make a mess, a better choice than Liquid electrical tape.
I really like that Gaffers tape. I was going to do the roof with something anyway as anything would be an improvement over the plastic. Curving the tar paper up the walls a bit will take care of the leakage there.
Lots of great ideas so far, thanks.
Are you talking about leaks in small areas or the "glowing building" effect? I prime and paint the inside walls of ALL of my structures. I keep square styrene stock on hand to glue into the inside corners, before painting. I saw a tip once where the modeler used really small round stock to fill the exterior corners where there are gaps. He brushed the corner with styrene cement then ran the stock down the seam. Once dried, he sanded it to blend into the walls.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Brent,
When I build any structure styrene/wood/card/etc. I build an interior frame glued right to the walls, especially in the corners.The roofs on all My structures are removeable so I increase the width of the mounting on the top edge with a Plastruct I-beam or even wood, to not only stpe any lite blead through, but to support the roof and also the lighting. It takes some extra work and planning, but always has worked for Me. When I am satisfied with the structure interior, I will give it a coat of Tamiya Acrylic flat Metallic Grey in the interior before the outside finished color. I paint all My structures before assembly and just do a touch-up with a brush later. Like I said....It takes a little extra time....but always works for Me.
The above/below is not painted yet...it's just a test fit.
Be Happy in Your Work!
Frank
Here's a styrene structure made with wood supports, for the full wall and roof which ar removeable. The doors are even removeable. I made this one around the time Broadway Lion broke His leg.......from falling off a ladder.
Take Care!
Tape and paint, or the caulk are better ideas than liquid electrical tape. The liquid electrical tape I have definitely uses some sort of solvent because it stinks horribly. I'd be afraid it would melt the plastic.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Frank, as usual, your work is stunning. Where did you get your furniture from (drill press etc.)
I think I took care of the glowing building issue for the most part by using label paper to show brickwork on the inside. There are uprights that attach to the wall at the rear that have me scratching my head a bit, as there is leakage around those. I think I will put painters tape down and use caulk in the crack and pull the tape off, just like you do when caulking a tub or shower stall.
I really like being able to lift the whole thing out to my desk to work on. I can put it back in about a minute if I want to play trains.
Just have to make sure the "track closed" sign is up on the way to the TT.
I am very impressed with your level of attention to detail— even going so far as to have an actual brick on hand to measure from!
Bats_Brick by Edmund, on Flickr
In regards to light leaks I wonder if black Florist's tape would be worthwhile?
https://www.amazon.com/Yard-Black-Floral-Tape-Roll/dp/B006DZAWQ8
It would probably be similar to the Gaffer's tape that HO Velo mentioned but might be easier to find. I know the green stuff is pretty common, too.
I generally don't have a problem at wall joints since I make every effort to have them close fitting or if that isn't an option I back them up with other strips of styrene or stripwood as Frank show above.
I'm also a fan of the printed wall textures to simulate interior appointments as Mister Beasley also shows.
I also use printed photo paper for roofing:
IMG_9425_fix_web by Edmund, on Flickr
(The air handling ducts haven't been painted yet in this image)
Sometimes I run it up the parapet as you proposed. Roofers will sometimes do this on a re-roof without installing new flashing.
IMG_4630_fix by Edmund, on Flickr
Good Luck, Ed
BATMANFrank, as usual, your work is stunning. Where did you get your furniture from (drill press etc.)
Thanks for Your kind words......I appreciate it.
The machine shop goodies are by Preiser #17706 already detailed. I got them on sale. They also sell an undetailed version in Green. I have that set also in another building. Other parts are from JL Innovative design. I will be posted more pic's soon on WPF of the buildings just about completed with people inside...they really give it some character.
BTW: I love Your puppy! My puppy? will be 10yrs. old this yr. His name is ''Spooky".......German Boxer.
gmpullmanI am very impressed with your level of attention to detail— even going so far as to have an actual brick on hand to measure from!
Ed, you did not look close enough! Each brick on the roundhouse is individually hand painted for authenticity, and then mounted one by one so I could get that true turn of the century look.
We had this gas fireplace installed to keep my Mom warm for the short time she lived with us before she passed away 15 years ago. There were about twenty bricks left over that never went very far. I find them handy and you will see many of them starring in my photo's over the years. A friend made the oak mantle for us, just because. It is safely tucked away until the layout comes down next year.
Frank, I think I will be looking for some quality furniture once the RH is ready to take its place for good. PWRS just sent me an account balance saying I have a $750.00 credit, so I know what I will be spending some of it on. People have been trained to buy me PWRS gift certificates instead of beer when they want to thank me for doing something for them. It adds up fast. The girls at PWRS say I am a real anomaly and want to know where I get my willpower from, to not spend it all. I think a BLI 2-8-0 is in my future. A guy can only resist so long you know.
I'm glad the OP specified what kind of leakage he was talking about; at first glance, I thought it might be a thread about the need for us older modellers to install a trainroom/basement bathroom....
As someone who uses Gaffer’s tape on a daily basis I would not recommend it for anything other than it’s intended use. It is for temporarily taping cords to a stage floor. It is meant to only stick for a few days without leaving a big gooey mess like duct tape does. It doesn’t peel the paint off of the floor or leave residue on the cords. When it dries up it turns into a bunch of dusty powder and thread. It is no good for long term use.
That gaffers tape seems expensive. Is it really worth the bucks?
When my kid was beating the crap out of a guy in Deadpool2 he had a major costume malfunction when half of it got ripped off. They yelled cut and wardrobe had him put back together in minutes using Gaffer and Duct tape. They actually had to tape his costume to his skin to make it stay in place. At the end of the day, he lay down on a table while they carefully pulled the duct tape off his skin. He still had racing stripes all over him none the less. I have pics. The next day he had a whole new X-Man costume waiting for him.
BATMANEd, you did not look close enough! Each brick on the roundhouse is individually hand painted for authenticity, and then mounted one by one so I could get that true turn of the century look.
I admire your devotion to detail, Brent!
Speaking of bricks... I actually have a Brick Collection
I have gathered some from many of my romps around the country. Each one can tell a story, much like Owen's coin collection in "Throw Momma From The Train"
My oldest is an 1880 brick from a Lakeshore & Michigan Southern station platform to a PRR brick from the roundhouse at Mingo Junction, Ohio.
I'm sure my kids will be thrilled to inherit this fine collection of historic artifacts!
There are many suppliers of black masking tape on Ebay if you go that route.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Masking-Tape-Good-For-Nail-Polish-Painting-Decoration-6rolls/261819865537?hash=item3cf5ae19c1:g:mJMAAOSwNSxVDQ2K
I've bought dozens of rolls over the years in widths from 1.5mm to about 16mm.
This stuff is strong, opaque and sticks very well.
Cheers, Ed
gmpullmanSpeaking of bricks... I actually have a Brick Collection I have gathered some from many of my romps around the country. Each one can tell a story, much like Owen's coin collection in "Throw Momma From The Train" My oldest is an 1880 brick from a Lakeshore & Michigan Southern station platform to a PRR brick from the roundhouse at Mingo Junction, Ohio.
Ed, Having a brick collection reminded me of the Woody Allen movie where the Uncle "owned land". Someday he planned to build.
Do you have enough for a building? You could have every brick mapped out and the story behind each brick in the brochure. Your kids will make millions running the tourist trap.
Thanks for the tip of the black masking tape. I raided my Daughters art supplies as she has many different colours in her cupboard. She'll never miss it. Of course, there was the time I used her $40.00 fan brush to spread glue. She forgave me after I bought her a new $50.00 fan brush. Quick thinking that day.