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How to disassemble a Proto 2000 U28B

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  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Franklin, OH
  • 153 posts
How to disassemble a Proto 2000 U28B
Posted by rrlcommish on Saturday, January 20, 2018 1:17 PM

Having erratic running issues (espcially slow speed) with this 10-year old locomotive, probably time to disassemble and clean and lube.  This one is a mystery to get the shell off, how do you get them apart?  I've done many Blue Box Athereans, but never a Walthers/Life Like.  Tried YouTube but it seems each Proto 2000 is different, and couldn't find a video for the U28B.  Advice?  Thanks!

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,481 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, January 20, 2018 1:46 PM

I've got one, but it's put away.  Sorry.

Being a Walthers Proto diesel, though, I suspect it's like the Geeps and Alcos I've got.  Unscrew the coupler pockets from the underside at each end.  Pull the coupler boxes out through the pilots on each end.  At this point the shell should come right off by pulling it straight up.

I'd recommend replacing the couplers with Kadees while you're in there.  An engine of this vintage is going to have plastic couplers.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, January 20, 2018 2:53 PM

 More than one P2K diesel has an extra pair of screws holding the shell on - in some cases you have to turn the truck to one side to get at them. It's NOT the ones inside the fuel tank - those are for the motor.

                                                 --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Heart of Georgia
  • 5,406 posts
Posted by Doughless on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:40 PM

As Randy mentioned, Protos typically have small screws located in obscure places.  Sometimes you have to turn the trucks a bit to reveal the screw thats near the fuel tank. 

Others have small screws near the sides of the shell underneath the fuel tank.  You have to remove the fuel tank with its small screw first.  As Randy mentioned, the two larger screws aligned down the center of the frame underneath the fuel tank would be the motor mounts.

- Douglas

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Franklin, OH
  • 153 posts
Posted by rrlcommish on Saturday, January 20, 2018 10:09 PM

Got it!  There were 5 screws...the two coupler boxes, two screws just behind the fuel tank and one just forward of it.  You guys were correct, you had to maneuver the trucks slightly to get to them.  The single screw just forward of the fuel tank is in a tough to get to spot, that one will be a little challenging to get back in because it's so tiny!  Now to tear into the drive mechanism.  Thanks everyone for the responses!

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
  • 4,261 posts
Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, January 22, 2018 1:20 PM

Get yourself a screw starter. I have one with four prongs that hold the screws in place. A couple of turns and they're tight enough to finish tightening with a regular screwdriver.

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