As a 73 yr old newby,I am trying to build something for my grandson to have after I'm gone. Should I keep everything set for DCC or can I mix and match? Keeping in mind that in later years he may only have the DCC and newer ideas of the time, but would still like to have some of the older units also. Can they be used together ??
Welcome to the MRR forums.
.
Your first few posts are delayed. Do not be discouraged and please stick with us.
I believe your question is whether or not DC and DCC systems are compatible.
If you build your layout with a DCC control system, DC locomotives will not run.
If you build your layout with a DC control system, some DCC locomotived with "dual mode" decoders will run, but not all that great and with limited functions and control. It is really a compromise.
Since youa re starting new, with a long future for you grnadchild, I would have no hesitation with recommending you go all DCC with this first setup.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Digitrax can run one analog (DC) engine on address 00, but it is not recommended. I use it to test locos only; leaving them on DCC track for hours at a time might damage them.
DCC can be installed in just about anything. DCC is also an NMRA Standard, and these do not change that often. Even if your DCC manufacturer of choice goes belly-up in 20 years, there will be multiple other brands available. At worst, someone would have to replace the brain and the throttles, but all decoders would continue to operate just fine. That's assuming that your DCC system stops working for some reason. My club's DCC system has been installed since 1999 and it still works today.
Personally, I would go with DCC all the way. It's such a game-changer over straight DC that it is worth going through the learning curve. Unless you happen to be an electrical engineer and like to play with relays, of course.
You cannot run DC and DCC at the same time. It´s an either/or thing.
Since you are new to this hobby, I would simply go all DCC. Wiring for DCC is no more difficult to learn than wiring for DC. The HUGE advantage is that you run the trains with DCC. You run the track with DC. If you and/or your grandson have the chance to run trains on both a DCC powered layout and a DC powered layout, your choice will be obvious. DCC operations are far more entertaining and your grandson is more likely to stay with the hobby if you start with DCC!
Hornblower
LeftridgeAs a 73 yr old newby
I'm guessing as a newbie, you don't want to go to a train show or Ebay and get a big fleet of locos that you will have to do a DCC conversion on. That's ok modern locos and cars are much more detailed than they were 30 years ago.
Your grandchildren will remember the trains or their youth not yours. Consider modeling the so called modern aread, one they can relate to.
When you are gone and they are taking over your railroad empire, an around the room, bolted to the wall layout is hard to disassemble and move. Some of us have used a modified modular concept for our benchwork.
They will certainly want to eventually create their own layout, but in that time when they are living at home or in a small place, a portable layout will come in handy.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Just wanted to say thanks to all that responded to my plea! I really "looked" at the hornby controllers and think they are brand new--origional tie wires and paper covered wires and all. Also looked at what was in the box and not a Hornby in the bunch. So, figure this guy had them and tossed them in box just to get rid of them. Thanks agaion folks--pretty sure I'll be back--
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Leftridge As a 73 yr old newby,I am trying to build something for my grandson to have after I'm gone. Should I keep everything set for DCC or can I mix and match? Keeping in mind that in later years he may only have the DCC and newer ideas of the time, but would still like to have some of the older units also. Can they be used together ??
Hi, and welcome. It's a bit beside the topic, but you can edit your posts if you'd like to tidy them up or change something. Just click on 'edit', wait for the edit text to appear, and then you can make changes with your keyboard. I find I have to be careful with the cursor placement when using Windows 10, but this may not apply to you. I have to click twice to ensure the cursor moves to where I need it to. I've been fooled if I forget.
Also, your quotes in your last reply...? Had you wanted them there? If not, edit them out by hilighting them and simply press delete once you are in the edit mode. If you would like to quote someone, but not all the text at once, simply use the 'quote' function, but where you want to end the quote just use "/quote" but in square brackets, not the quotation marks. The server will stop the quote where you placed that ending text. To quote a new section, just copy and past the square brackets and name of the member as it appears at the top of the quoted text you're dealing with as the server displays it. This way, with the quote and /quote in brackets, you can deal with individual points broken up and interspersed with your replies.
I hope that is easy to follow, and that it helps you to feel more at ease here.
LeftridgeHe did say there was some DCC items. Can the older items be used on a different track setup than the DCC items? Thanks agaion--
Most DC locos can be converted to DCC. The difficulty varies according to age and design. Items that are already DCC are easy pickings. Then make a list of what else you have and search around and you will find instructions on how to convert them to DCC.
The main reason people tend to stick with DC is that they already have a fleet of DC locos and want to avoid the work and expense of the conversion. For some operators, DC provides all the functionality they desire. But a young fellow and his grandfather starting in the hobby don't have an accumulation of old DC stuff (presuming you don't buy someone else's) and the young fellow would probably at least want to keep up with tech advances in DCC.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Leftridgesounds as though some are DCC and some are not.
I guessed wrong then. I would suggest one of the DCC books from Kalmbach. It also has a learning curve. DCC conversion isn't rocket science, but it is a little delicate.
Edit Mel's system is fool proof by design. You can all also design a less rigorous system where it depends on you never making a mistake. If the live DCC loco runs into the live DC track, all the expensive smoke escapes all the expensive DCC decoders and controllers.
LeftridgeCan the older items be used on a different track setup than the DCC items?
You can set up separate loops of track each with their own power. One could be DC, another DCC. You could change what's on each loop easily if you use wiring terminals. On my test layout, I have done this to switch DC and DCC as well as AC and DCC for my 3 rail O gauge.
Since this is for your grand children, having separate loops for each child may be your best bet anyway.
Good luck
Paul
Converting older locos to DCC can be a challenge. Even more so if you lack electronic and mechanical skills. Too many variables, connections, current requirements and the list can go on. Soldering seems to be a big issue with some.
I would go with DCC first time.
Bachmann sells starter systems with DCC. Good prices online, even with Amazon.
Bachmann also sells starter DC systems so look at the details.
I have a couple Bachmann sound value DCC locos. The EZ Commands systems is ok for maybe two or three locos and one DC loco but not for very long. It is hard on the motor which can overheat even when stopped and the power still on. I have done the temperature measurements.
A few in the Bachmann forums use the EZ Command DCC system. An older system which has some drawbacks that do not bother some.
EDIT.
I gave away my MRC2k that could run four DCC locos and one DC loco some years ago.
I bought the NCE Power Cab. It cannot run a DC loco.
If I want to play with a DC loco, I unplug the Power Cab and plug in the DC power pack. No dual running.
A club I use to belong to tried that some years ago and wiped out the five amp booster.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Leftridge,I am trying to build something for my grandson to have after I'm gone
I'm questioning the premise that your grandson will be interested in your trains when "you are gone". Hopefully he is taking a part in building the layout and showing a great interest. Even then it is a question wnen he comes of age that he will have any interest.
So better build it for your self involving your son's ideas and wishes as much as possibe.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Age of grandson? Sounds like you want HO scale. Bachmann has EZ track which is quite nice for a new modeler.
Google bachmann forums for the Bachmann web site with company reps.
Digital control of model trains is evolving.
Bachmann sells EZ App trains you control with iPhone, Android, iPad, etc.
There is DCS somewhat compatible with DCC.
Also, Dead Rail, though one seller is exiting the market according to a report in a couple other forums. Dead rail has rechargeable battery in the loco which can charge on a DC layout, DCC layout as well as a charger. No wires to the layout and wireless control like the Bachmann EZ App that uses bluetooth.
richg1998Also, Dead Rail, though one seller is exiting the market according to a report in a couple other forums. Dead rail has rechargeable battery in the loco which can charge on a DC layout, DCC layout as well as a charger. No wires to the layout and wireless control like the Bachmann EZ App that uses bluetooth.
This is far from being a viable option for a newbie, as there is literally nothing RTR available in the market.
The best suggestion is to go the DCC route right from the beginning.
First--thank you all for your help and direction, thinkl I have decided that DCC is the way to go as much as possible. But now--NEW QUESTION !! As I mkentioned above, I had bought a box of HO units from a guy that is moving to "O" gauge and just wanted to unload what he had. Box arrived today and am satisfied witht the purchase. A lot more thn Ihad expected !! Problem being tht one or two of the sets are the Hornby brand. Being an English company, they use 220 volts as their power source. Long story short--I need a 110volt AC Adapter down to 19 volts DC. Any ideas where I may find such an animal?? I have an e-mail to Hornby right now but no response as yet. Have also looked for a whle on line but most are only 12 volt DC.
Hornby. That is a tricky one. You have to look closely. They might be AC if they are old enough. More recent dcc ready units are 12 volt and compatable with all dcc manufacturers. Like nce. So research will have to be done
Wolfie
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
Thanks Wolfie--I do have a mail to Hornby but nothing as yet. There are three of these units included in the box and all three are the same voltage requirement. Hopefully Hornby can help--
Thanks IronRooster--
I received that box from the guy that was cleaning house in orderto upgrade to "O" scale and it is FULL of train items. So nowI can set up for DC and DCC on separate tracks and ares if need be-
Don't know if you have seen my latest problem tho--the trains and controls are Hornby an need 220 volt input. Any idea where i may find an adapter from 110 v ac to 19 v dc ??
Thanks--
Look at the label on wall warts. They show the input and ouput voltage and amps. Tag, yard sales, even surplus stores. If the prongs for the outlet are like USA, they might be universal, 110 to 240 AC input. I have some of those. They come in different voltage snd amps. Over the years I have trown away about a dozen I had no use for.
Online, Alltronics and Jameco Electronics I have ordered electrical stuff from stuff from.
Our European members may have some good advice for you on the Hornby.
That would be too many electrical variables for me. I'd sell them on Ebay in a heartbeat.
Any DC power pack will do the job, no need to get any special electrical equipment. Hornby trains run, just like your US brands, on 12 - 14V DC.
You have no idea how good that is to hear !! Cannot find anything with output dc low enough. BTW, is amperege a problem? his one is 0.5 amp and again, nothing that low.
Thank you "Sir"
LeftridgeBTW, is amperege a problem? his one is 0.5 amp and again, nothing that low.
I assume this is engine amperage? I can't imagine a MR power supply with amp output that low.
The engine takes only the amps it needs from the power supply. The power supply does not force extra unwanted amps into the engine.
I told you those Europeans are clever. Not only they do English better than some of us, they can cook measuring in grams and milliliters and they know whether to put a coat on if the temp is 19 Celsius.
For DC: MRC power packs on Ebay are cheap and bullet proof.
No, not engine amperage. the AC adapter itself has rating of 19V --0.5A output. All I have found (mainly on Amazon) that would have 19V output has 3-4 amps output. Don't want to mess up the controller or the engine--
OK I reread your previous post.
You have a Hornby controller without a transformer, or at least one you can plug into the US electrical grid.
I'm out of my league. There is a Hornby US site https://www.hornby.com/us-en/stockists/north-america/
Check this page: https://www.hornby.com/us-en/shop/track/track-accessories/us-transformer-for-r8250-train-controller.html
I am inclined to say "Scrap the Hornby controller" and buy a MRC powerpack.