Doggone it, I was trying to carefully handle a steam engine but a boiler part broke off. Not really sure what the part actually is but it is attached directly to the boiler by a small plastic extension that is maybe 1/4" long and 1/16" thick. It broke off right at the boiler.
What adhesive makes the most sense? Styrene glue, some other plastic glue, or epoxy?
Rich
Alton Junction
Solutions may depend on the material (plastic or metal boiler). I use CA for both of these cases. What probably matters most is the mechanical joint. Ideally, the part should be connected through a hole in the boiler. If the extension is broken on the part (is it a whistle?), you can: 1) find another part that will fit in the hole; or 2) drill a small hole in the part, put a piece of wire on it, and insert the part with the wire in the boiler's hole, with some glue on it. You might have to re-drill the hole in the boiler. The wire will ensure a more secure bond. I find that a fresh coat of paint over the fix solidifies eveything, but you may not want to go that far. Epoxy would ensure a better bond, but it would not be strong enough without any anchor on the boiler, as explained above.
Simon
If it sits flush to the boiler, then you can just apply a tiny dab of CA or epoxy and affix it into place again. In good light and with a magnifier, look at the place where it was attached. Does it show an apparently broken pin still embedded in the boiler? If so, ideally it would be best to re-pin the appliance and place it against the boiler that way. However, you must somehow dislodge the pin still in place. That will be very difficult without causing more damage, at least to the finish of the boiler if nothing else.
You could drill another hole beside the broken pin and relocate the appliance. A couple of mm left or right shouldn't make much of a difference unless the boiler has a lot of stuff nearby.
Exactly what I was going to suggest. The new pin is the key to keeping the part installed. I have done this a number of times. Better a brass or copper wire than a piece of plastic for the new pin, will make a stronger joint.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Thanks for all of the suggestions and comments so far.
I need to take a closer look at whether the other end of the broken piece is lodged in the boiler which is also plastic.
Lok-Tite liquid extra strength super glue works every time!
.
Note, this is not an instant glue. It takes a while to fully cure, but when it does... the bond is quite strong. Go over the area with some flat acrylics, a little weathering, and no one will ever know.
Battle scars look good on steam locomotives.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Rich,
A pin is definitely the way to go.....If the part is Acetal plastic (which it probably is, engineering plastic, also called slippery plastic) the pin will also be plastic. In all the truck miniatures I make all the detail is held in with pins, which they are handled alot and have yet to break any detail off of them. When I detailed brass steam enigines all detail was also held in with pins.....also silver soldered some. I use .020 and .032 hardened brass rod for most......along with a #77 and #79/74 for holes, done with a pin vise by hand.......goes pretty fast with some experience. I use a Woodland Scenics ''Foam Nail" to put a tiny indent where I want the hole. The point of those nails is very fine and hardened.....ideal for brass/plastic, pewter, white metal.
In the above pic, the little silver part on the left under the etched mirrors has a .020 brass pin in it....it will go where the hole is in the side of the hood. I put just a drop of Medium Ca on the tip and install it after parts have been painted. The other holes are for the etched mirrors, yet to be cut out...also applied after painting. The brass (scratch-built) exhaust stack has a .032 brass rod in it that attaches to the back of the truck.......takes patience....but works, always.
Good Luck!
Frank
Edit: All the detail that is on this model was applied with pins...after it was painted. If Your careful, it can be done without damage to any of the painted surfaces......and they will not break off.
Here is the broken part. It came off the right side of the boiler. Don't know what it is, but to my way of thinking, it looks like an assault rifle. That thin piece pointing down was attached to the boiler.
How would I re-attach the part using a pin?
That is the power reverser air cylinder. At least, on the right side of the boiler, where the hogger almost always is in N. America. a cylinder that small is likely to be a power assist, and the best bet is for the reverser...reversing the valves in their cylinders and changing the direction of travel.
My mind begins to work: how would I tackle this repair? I'd look for a suitable pin if it can be placed/replaced. How about Ye Olde Trak Nayle? Nip the two ends, heat one end (ha ha...yeah, right...one end of a nipped track nail) and press it into the place best suited for anchoring. It might take two goes. Glue it if you can if it comes out easily. Then, when cured, drill that tiny hole, place the whole in the....um....hole, and Bob's yer uncle.
richhotrain Here is the broken part. It came off the right side of the boiler. Don't know what it is, but to my way of thinking, it looks like an assault rifle. That thin piece pointing down was attached to the boiler. How would I re-attach the part using a pin? Rich
What is the diameter of the piece pointing down? Looks like it could be about a 1/16''. You have calipers to measure? If it is or even if it's smaller.....I would cut the rest off flush from where it is mounted on the cylinder, file the area flat and drill a hole the dia. of the piece cut off, make the piece a 1/8'' length longer on both ends. One end inserted into the cylinder with Medium CA and one end into the boiler, after You drill a hole where the pin broke off. 1/8'' is more than enough to keep it from breaking again.
Many years ago....I built a few Mantua kit engines with the cast boilers and added many brass cal-scale detail after drilling holes in the casting. They came with pins already on the parts......You just had to drill the holes. No CA in the fifties....I used Testers tube cement. I put power reversers on all of them and some feedwater heaters on the Mikes, along with all the plumbing. Still have two of them to this day.........and they still run....a Mike & Pacific. Hardened brass rod comes in many sizes from K&S.
If You don't want to go that route with the pins.....pick up a tube of ZAP GEL PT-27......sparingly put some on the tip of the reverser and then to boiler part. Find a way to keep it in place without holding it, before glueing. The gel is not an instant stick, but when cured is very strong. DO NOT use accelerator...that weakens the joint. An overnite dry/cure time is best.
zstripe What is the diameter of the piece pointing down? Looks like it could be about a 1/16''. You have calipers to measure? If it is or even if it's smaller.....I would cut the rest off flush from where it is mounted on the cylinder, file the area flat and drill a hole the dia. of the piece cut off, make the piece a 1/8'' length longer on both ends. One end inserted into the cylinder with Medium CA and one end into the boiler, after You drill a hole where the pin broke off. 1/8'' is more than enough to keep it from breaking again.
I understand what you are suggesting. Cut it off at the cylinder and insert a pin which will then be glued into the boiler.
The remainder of that piece is still attached to the boiler. So, if I try to drill through it, it may fall out. Maybe that is what I should do first to see if I can clear it out. Let me take a look at this and get back to you.
richhotrain...The remainder of that piece is still attached to the boiler. So, if I try to drill through it, it may fall out. Maybe that is what I should do first to see if I can clear it out....
If the piece broke off flush with the outside of the boiler, apply a little solvent-type cement to affix it firmly in place.If the broken stub is recessed, drill it out, using a drill bit as large or slightly larger than the stub, and of a size .004"-.005" smaller than the diameter of styrene rod that you have on-hand to plug the newly created hole. I keep a supply of Evergreen styrene rod expressly for jobs like this, but you can also use sprue material from any styrene kit.Use a brush to apply solvent-type cement to both the newly-drilled hole and to the material to be used for the plug - if necessary, re-coat both so they are wet when the plug is inserted. This softens both plug and hole, making for a force-fit joint. Let it harden overnight, then trim off any excess rod and oozed-out plastic. The plug and the power reverse casting can then be drilled for a pin (I like appropriately-sized music wire for mounting pins), which should be secured at both ends using ca.This method of plugging holes is also useful when you remove unwanted details from visible parts of any model, as it almost never requires additional filler to hide the former hole.
Wayne
richhotrainFrank, that piece pointing down is either rectangular or square, not round.
Just so You know....K&S makes square brass tube that will also work if You want...even that small.
In the pic' directly in the front laying on it's side are the stabilizing supports for the boom crane.....they are brass square tube that fits in one another so they can slide in and out for stabilizing the deck crane......I'll have to take a new pic' to show the finished model.
In Your case though...round would work...simply because most people would not know whether it should be round or square.
Take Care!
A couple pic's of the finished model........everything on the crane works..done with music wire pins, brass pins, rod, tube, even a real wood floor pewter and white metal castings:
Good Luck on whatever You decide on!
Frank, thanks for that additional info and the pics.
I took a closer look with the Optivisor and I am thinking that I can clean out the broken end that is still glued into the boiler. If I can do that, then there may be enough of the broken piece that is still attached to the cylinder to glue it into the boiler.
I appreciate your continuing advice.
selector That is the power reverser air cylinder. At least, on the right side of the boiler, where the hogger almost always is in N. America. a cylinder that small is likely to be a power assist, and the best bet is for the reverser...reversing the valves in their cylinders and changing the direction of travel.
I have found a fix for my broken part based upon the ideas and suggestions raised in these various replies to my original post.
When I put on an Optivisor (best tool in my MR arsenal) and held a light to the area where it broke, I could see that the broken piece fit into a hole surrounded by a slightly raised circular rim. So, I used a pin vise to ream out the opening and that gave me a nice,clean, circular opening.
I then took the power reverser air cylinder and, with an Exacto knife, shaved the square extension part (the broken piece) into a round end and inserted it into the reamed hole in the boiler. I will glue it back in place later today.
Incidentally, the long part of that cylinder actually attaches to another part of the boiler apparatus. Once glued, that provides additional support for the power reverser air cylinder.
Thanks to everyone for your help. In effect, by shaving the end of that extension piece into a round shape, I created the necessary "pin".
richhotrainThanks to everyone for your help. In effect, by shaving the end of that extension piece into a round shape, I created the necessary "pin". Rich
I would have done exactly as You did.....Iffen' I had My paws on it and could see there was enough (pin) left to do so.....
zstripe richhotrain Thanks to everyone for your help. In effect, by shaving the end of that extension piece into a round shape, I created the necessary "pin". Rich Rich, I would have done exactly as You did.....Iffen' I had My paws on it and could see there was enough (pin) left to do so..... Take Care! Frank
richhotrain Thanks to everyone for your help. In effect, by shaving the end of that extension piece into a round shape, I created the necessary "pin". Rich
Thanks again.