I'm slowly assembling my American Model Builders (AMB) wood caboose kit and it's coming along nicely:
[Sorry for the lower quality pics Low light with cell phone camera.]
The interior shell I scratch-built using .020 x .040 (#2040) V-groove sheeting and it is entirely removable. I was hoping to NOT have to use bracing. However, the thin walls warped inward slightly once I applied the Plastruct Plastic Weld to the seams (not a real surprise) so I straightened the walls out using 6 x 6 dimensional styrene, as seen above.
Yes, perhaps overkill for something that won't really get noticed from the outside but I enjoyed making it, nonetheless. Those seams won't be coming apart though - that's for sure!
Anyhow, what I'm wondering is when would be the best point to decal it the exterior?
The assembly instructions are quite detailed and suggest painting the parts prior to assembly, which I have done. However, there is no mention when exactly to apply the decals. It would seem logical - at least to me - to do it after the wood side panels have been pressed onto the frame but prior to installing the window glazing.
While I don't want the gloss coat then dull coat to ruin the look of the acetate windows (if that's possible), I also don't want to apply the coating too earlier then run the risk of marring the decals trying to add the final detailing to the exterior of the caboose.
Half of the windows have been temporarily installed with the glazing (see third pic above) but they can be easily removed then added after the decals and gloss and dull coats have been applied. Does that seem like a reasonablee approach to you all? Or, does it really matter?
Thanks,
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstage to do it after the wood side panels have been pressed onto the frame but prior to installing the window glazing
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Thanks, Bear. That makes sense that the gloss & dull coats would protect the decals after they are applied. I'll mull it over (over-think it) some more.
I am truly in the same conundrum myself, Tom.
My intention is to give the car a thin brush painted coat of NYC mineral red then apply dry transfers from CDS lettering.
Presently the car is painted in Krylon red oxide primer. You can see the relief of the wood grain in the above view and I'm afraid even the best quality decal job will still show the film.
I have high hopes that the CDS dry transfers will go on nicely and look convincing. I hope to tackle this job in the next few weeks.
Good Luck, Ed
Hi Ed,
No criticism intend. Did your AMB wood caboose kit come with the thin, add-on door frame around the door opening like the windows? It looks nice - especially with the door inset like it is. Mine did come with a door frame and sill and I applied it; that's why I'm asking.
I'll look forward to seeing how the dry transfers look when you get around to applying them, Ed.
I used multiple coats of MM gloss and my decals went on OK. I am not at home but will take a pic next week.
Went to Photobucket to see a close up of your railings. Got 4 popup ads, but what did you use for railings, mine came with a bunch of wire? I have not made railings before, so I stalled out.
Nice job by the way.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Henry,
I'm guessing that Ed used the Detail Associates detailing kit (#550) - specifically designed for the AMB wood cabooses.
gmpullmanI have high hopes that the CDS dry transfers will go on nicely and look convincing. I hope to tackle this job in the next few weeks.
I'm a big fan of C-D-S dry transfers, although the ones I need are difficult to find. Up until very recently, all of my custom lettering, three different orders, were from them.After you apply the lettering, burnish it very thoroughly, then use a new #11 blade or a new razor blade to slit the lettering at all board separation grooves, then apply Solvaset. It should make the lettering settle into the grooves just as it would with a decal, although you may need to make several applications.This also works when using dry transfers on plastic models of wooden cars, although it's seldom necessary to pre-slit the lettering, as board separations on plastic models are less pronounced than those on wood. Pretty-well all of my almost 400 home road cars were lettered with dry transfers, and perhaps 80% of my interchange cars, too.
Wayne
tstageI'm guessing that Ed used the Detail Associates detailing kit (#550)
The directions recommend that kit, I have had no luck finding it online.
Yea, I had to poke around and find it on eBay, Henry. I ended up paying $6.79 plus S&H.
Anyone else have opinions on when I should add decals - i.e. before window glazing is installed or after???
Thanks, I will start a saved search on Ebay, I weather with an airbrush, or pastels and dull coat so I put glaze at the end.
BigDaddy Thanks, I will start a saved search on Ebay, I weather with an airbrush, or pastels and dull coat so I put glaze at the end.
AA Hobbies, Warwick RI might have it. I will have a look next time I go up there, as I also have this caboose kit.
tstageAnyone else have opinions on when I should add decals - i.e. before window glazing is installed or after???...
Sorry, Tom, I forgot to include that in my earlier reply. Definitely apply the lettering, and all the prep work for it and the clear overcoats to protect it before adding the glazing.I usually apply the glazing on passenger cars as the very last step, and on cabooses, locomotives, and windowed-MoW cars as the second-to-last step, just before weathering.
Thanks, Wayne. I'm glad I asked the question because it made more sense to me to do it the way you're recommending.
Glazing last, because any of the prep work you need to do foor decals will ruin the glazing material - Dullcote, Glosscote, decal setting solution - it will make a mess of the clear windows because no matter how careful you are, some will get on them - and that's a whole lot of masking you'd need to do before spraying anything. Also when applying the dull finish, you want it on all the window frames tooo, so you don't have a nice dull car side with these shiny window frames (unless they are metal replacements on the old wood car or something).
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I would add the decals and handrails/ladders after the model is all finished and painted.
On a car with separate sides / ends, I prefer to do as much as possible 'up front' while the parts are separate and 'flat'. I'd paint the sides and ends (inside and out), seal with gloss finish, apply decals, then Solvaset to snuggle them down. Then, on a wood car or building, I take a single-edge razor blade and trace down each opening between the boards, then reapply Solvaset (perhaps several coats as needed.) Then seal in the decals with flat finish, weather with powdered charcoal, and then seal that in with flat finish.
With that all done, you can add the window glazing before assembly, and not have to worry about ruining them. Generally, when the car is all done, I'll add some weathering with powders / chalks.