I couldn't find any difference: appears both use code 83 rail and are DC/DCC compatible!
Any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
Sam
Hi Sam:
Item #933-2850 is discontinued and item #933-2859 is the replacement. I believe that the older unit had some operating problems but I'm not sure what they were. Regardless of the reason, the older turntable has been discontinued so I would take the hint and avoid it unless you are prepared to rebuild it to get it to work properly.
FWIW, you can save yourself a bunch of money. The older kits can be made to run nicely if you are prepared to do some work. This thread shows some modifications that I made to a 90' turntable kit. It's a bit lengthy but if you scroll through you will find the important bits like how to rebuild the bogie wheels and how to get the drive system to run smoothly:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/258912.aspx
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Dave,
Thanks for the info. I purchased a '59.
The new one has a completely different control box.
I'm glad I bought the latest one.
Have the 2850 version, after nearly two years of try this and try that.....I completely removed it from the layout. Appears the indexing would not be consistent depending on the locomotives going for a ride. Also have two 3 stall roundhouse kits with the floors glued together only. All the items currently reside in their boxes under the layout out of sight and out of mind. The whole experience was a huge waste of time and money also taking into consideration the expenditure for track and bench work. Final disposition of these items undecided at this time.
I have the 130 ft turntable, but still in the box along with the three stall roundhouse kit still in the box.
Under my present layout sytem, I have no room for either, unless I redo my layout.
So like mentioned above both are stored right now. Perhaps I would sell them, undecided at this time. I do have room to expand my layout which is now 6 feet by 24 feet.
But before I do, I feel it is wise tio finish or get as close to being finished as I can before putting another project into motion.
My next project is to get decoders into more of my steam locmotives and a few early diesels.
My layout is set in the mid 1940's to early 1960's.
I am a Pennsylvania Railroad fan as both my Dad and my Uncle worked on Pennsy trains.
My Uncle Ab was an engineer and my Dad was a brakeman.
I was extremely particular with the bench work and plywood surface being level as I added this 2' by 6' addition in a walkway in the middle of the layout. It was mounted on Midwest cork roadbed to be compatible with the rest of railroad. I used a code 100 to code 83 transition piece and code 83 for all "garden tracks". I had two distinct issues with this unit. First......there was a 3" length in the pit rail where the bridge would hang up (skip teeth and stall) without a locomotive taking a ride. Put a locomotive on the bridge and it tracked properly??? I believe there was issues with plastic pit being warped on some units. Multiple removals and reinstalls, mounting screw tweaking, setup with a laser level failed to resolve this issue. Second.....the indexing to garden tracks would be off depending on the locomotives taking a ride. Perhaps weight was an issue. I have 300 locomotives from Athearn,Atlas,BLI,Kato,Old Rivarossi steam,Bowser, P2K, and Walthers. I tried many combinations of powered/dummy and manufacturer. All attempts ended with inconsistent indexing and derailment. I retired in 2015 and spent many hours in 2016 trying to get this TT running correctly. Several days before Christmas 2016 I reached the pinnacle of aggravation and tore out TT and benchwork...never to return. I read that the 2859 version has corrected "some issues". I relay my experience with this TT so that others contemplating purchase may take pause and consider this major purchase. Best of luck to all!
is it worth getting the new one??
EMDSD40
We have a 2850 version and have experienced a different set of problems. Ours is a DCC setup and each time there is a layout short the programming seems to get scrambled. Sometimes a calibrate will sort things out but at other times a full programme is required.Recently we changed from a DCC supply to a separate DC supply which seems to have fixed things but too soon to be sure. This of course means we can't operate the TT from the throttle but most users seem to prefer the blue box anyway.
bagal
I just installed the new version a month ago and so far it has worked great. The mounting screws are too short for a 3/4 inch plywood base, but gravity works fine to keep it in place. I was a little too aggressive putting the bevel in the end of the approach/garden tracks and I have had some pilot trucks on some locos derail. The new control box works great, not like the old version we have at the club. (The old version makes it easy to accidentally do a complete reset that looses all the programming.) So far it works great with locos from an 0-6-0 to a 4-6-6-4. I'm pleased with the very small angle control in adjusting the position. Very glad I waited for the new version.
Thanks for all the comments on the turntable. I'm glad I posted the question as it appears a lot of railroaders need info on this item. As I mentioned, previously, I now have the 59 version. It is really a 'backup' to my old geiger turntables (out of production many moons ago), since turntables are not always easy to find, especially at 130'. By chance, only time I've seen it available in a long time, a motor mechanism for the geiger came up for sale on ebay and I was able to obtain it for another 'backup'. Being mostly a cottage industry, I find it best to buy items that I'll probably use in the future because, delaying, usually results in them not being available when I want them :(
sam parfitt
grinnell and Sam:
I saw a neat solution for screwing down the Walthers 130' turntable. The modeller tapped the screw sockets for a 2-56 thread and then screwed a suitable length of threaded rod into the sockets. Once the turntable is dropped into place it is much easier to thread nuts and washers onto the rod than trying to hit the sockets with a longer self tapping screw from under the benchwork. The solution will work regardless of the thickness of the benchwork/sub-roadbed.
Here is the video. You can fast forward to the 09:35 minute mark to see the method at work:
https://www.walthers.com/products/turntable-video?utm_source=exact_target&utm_campaign=eupdate_020817&utm_medium=email&utm_content=turntable-video